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Mike T last won the day on June 22 2022
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Mine was... What/who are 'traditional' flyers?
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Mike T started following Explosion, early Nov 5th... , CAA Registration , Finally made a charging station.... and 7 others
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So in a nutshell: If your OP ID was 'grandfathered' via an A or B, then you don't need to do anything (except keep a copy of any CAA notification for reference) If you did the CAA's DMARES test, then you need to fill in the form linked in Andy's email, so the BMFA can log your Flyer ID info.
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I set up a charging station a few years ago. Don't let yours get like mine! 😁
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Gosh! Back in the days when the performance of motors and speed controllers actually exceeded their nominal specs! 😀 Talking of back in the day, in the late '90s or thereabouts I was looking for a a less noisy replacement for the Merco 35 fitted to my Precedent Funfly. The engine I bought has been fitted in two successive Funfly's (as well as a dreadful pink ARTF Sukhoi 26) and is still running in my current Funfly, built in 2020. This engine just starts and runs and runs and runs. Laydeez an' Gen'lmen - I give you - the Thunder Tiger GP42. Honourable mentions go to my OS40FS - a pleasant plodder - and my Moki 210 - a surprisingly tractable savage beast (also easily converted to petrol/ign.)
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Can someone please advise on a problem with OS48fs Surpass
Mike T replied to Edgeflyer's topic in IC Engines
An idle thought: couldn't you achieve much the same effect (decompressing) with an extra washer under the plug? -
My J60 has the u/c in the designed position and gives no problems. The forward positioning gives the plane it's characteristic appearance and stance. If you're that concerned about ground handling, then maybe the Super 60 is a better option?
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Question About Differential Ailerons
Mike T replied to Nigel Heather's topic in All Things Model Flying
The setting at the aileron you describe should give more up than down (assuming your Ruckus is standard with the servos and control horns are installed on the wing underside). How are the servo horns positioned? Is there a stray mix in your Tx that you haven't got rid of? -
LOL. Here's the fus of my Pup painted in Flair PC10. It looks pretty much like the back end of your Mannock. I noticed that when the PC10 can is opened, the paint looks very green (as in the front end of your pic), but when stirred, turns brown.
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Prompted by this topic, I opened up an old Powercraft drill which due to an obvious switch problem, had ceased working. The switch/speed controller couldn't be saved, so I removed it and bridged the gap by soldering in a piece of copper wire. I now have a working drill, albeit one that runs at full bore. I've ordered an inline cord switch, to make it a little handier. While I was doing that, I took a punt on this drill. I wasn't expecting an awful lot, but I've been pleasantly surprised. It's a bit chunkier than the Powercraft (and certainly more so than a Dremel) but has the bonus of a quite nice keyed chuck, which will take up to 6mm. The machined collar suggests it could be mounted in a press of some sort.
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Donkeys years ago, I built an all-sheet Sopwith Triplane from Gordon Whitehead's free Aeromodeller plan. For the PC 10, I experimented with some Humbrol enamels and came up with the following formulation: 10 tinlets of Dark Earth; 10 tinlets of Dark Green; 1 tinlet of black. Mixed together in a jar, these gave a pleasing colour which looked distinctly brown in strong sunlight and ditto green in poor light! This seemed to me to satisfactorily resolve all the arguments. I've noticed that Flair Spectrum PC10 seems to have the same qualities and is still being produced under the Guild Chroma brand.
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A word of caution on wallpaper paste. I bought some cheap patching paste to use on my first attempt at brown-papering over the carved/sanded pink foam nose of a friend's Vulcan. It went on fine and I left it to dry overnight. When I picked it up in the morning, it all flaked away (albeit each piece kept its shape, perfectly formed!). I tried again with the same result. I gave up and returned the plane to my friend who got it to work using 'Mod Podge' (a thickish PVA-ish concoction used by diorama modellers). So based on my limited experience, I'd advise sticking (lol) with PVA!
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Yeah, I lived in the EU for 45 years as well, until I was removed by some people who have an unnaturally amorous relationship with fabric-based emblems of national identity...😉
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I agree with Peter that it's an impossible question to answer, but not for the reasons he's given. You simply have not given enough information. Do you know what aircraft it is and/or have you attempted to find out? Try posting up a few pictures. In short - throw us a bone here!
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Unfortunately I think it is rocket science, but at least it's not brain surgery...