richard cohen
-
Posts
331 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Calendar
Downloads
Everything posted by richard cohen
-
-
-
method to remove solarfilm from solartex ? any ideas
richard cohen replied to richard cohen's topic in Hints and Tips
cheers guys. the tape method did take some off but as stu has tried paint stripper with no ill effects i had a trial with a few chemicals and found meths works nicely. Warming the solarfilm up with a warm air gun definately seems to soften the glue and aid removal. clearly solartex is tough stuff -
Afternoon all. I am trying to remove solarfilm from solartex. it has been added as trim/decoration but needs to be cleaned off ready for a repaint. i have warmed the film and while some has come away nicely (or was never fully adhered ) in other areas, the top clear film has come off leaving the colour behind. I have tried gentle scraping while gently warming with a warm air gun but not a perfect result. any ideas out there ? i am loath to experiment with chemicals until i know they wont damage the base layer of solartex. Rich
-
Douglas Skyraider A1, flying since 1992. just out for a service/overhaul ready for this year.
-
-
KingSpan ? anyone used it ?
richard cohen replied to richard cohen's topic in All Things Model Flying
cheers all. The plan was the builders would keep any half cut sheets for me rather than them being skipped but wolstonflyer has got the right stuff. i have to say it seemed quite firm when i gave it a squeeze but the proofs in the sanding and if its as messy as WF says then i might giuve it a miss -
Weekend Giveaway
richard cohen replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in All Things Model Flying
count me in please -
While we have had contractors at work i have come across Kingspan insulation sheets but i can find nothing on the forum search. It appears to be a lightweight resilient foam that doesnt crumble at the edges and i wondered if anyone come across it. What glue does it accept and how easy is it to work with ? if its any good the builders will keep a few sheets by for me
-
how many trys at getting the right type of plane do they need ? no, its not a B52, no its not a 757 and no , its not an Eagle link try again .... Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 15/02/2013 23:41:26
-
Hi Stu. right scale but more WW2 than vietnam. I was thinking something like this load out..Mark 82 500lb bombs, suu14 munitions dispenser tubes, M47 phosphorus bomb and suu11 chain gun pod. Can you telI i REALLY like my weapons munitions tubes and gun pods i can make but i think bomb shapes will be hard.i might have to try shaping out of foam on a lathe or summat
-
Hi Paul. Good call for variety, just a bit on the small side for 1/6 scale. I will have a peruse at other US sites though - might be someone else. I did check Ziroli's site but they only list centre fuel tanks. Cheers..Rich
-
Afternoon all. Despite hours scouring the web i have had no luck in finding a uk stockist of 1/6 scale underwing weaponry suitable for a US vietnam era warplane. I am looking for USAF type bombs, tanks and rockets for a Ziroli Skyraider. Any ideas out there ? Richard
-
Seeing as how the whole country seems to be moaning about the snow, I thought I would buck the trend and try to enjoy it. A set of ski's designed with the TLAR method (That Looks About Right) were manufactured ( read cobbled together) overnight from some wide wooden blind slats. Steamed to shape, and rigged to an airframe that wouldn't matter too much if it all went horribly wrong. 1/2 day booked off work and straight off up the airfield. A 16mph cross wind meant a wind chill on the airfield of -10' but the little four stroke fired up and burbling nicely, she gracefully slid out onto the runway and with a little side slipping, she eased off into the wide blue (white) yonder. The ski's do seem to upset the trim a bit but nothing drastic and much pleasure was derived from just doing proper square circuits with low passes and touch and go's droppings the back edge of the skis across the snow. Then as thumbs numbed till the sticks couldn't be felt, it was time for a landing and coffee in the clubhouse. This is soooooo much fun. Highly recommended. Edited By richard cohen on 23/01/2013 14:42:58
-
-
-
-
-
Colditz ! stiff upper lip, what ? Dad's Army - ageless ....Don't tell 'em your name Pike ! The Sweeney - put yer trousers on, you're nicked, son Minder - Arrrrfurrrr All creatures great and small -
-
lucky to have a full size runway so no worries about the flying site but getting to the airfield might get interesting, Malmesbury up the road is under water, there are water filled fields that could host a float plane fly in round the village and the local river Ray down the hill is looking decidedly full and last time it let go the water was chest high and i'm 6'3''. I waded through to help a mate whos house was filling up via the letter box !
-
could be worse - this one was left too close to a fire link
-
i bought my H9 P47 the day they launched it back in 2006 and mine has flown for so long its had 3 sets of bearings in its OS91Fs. It is my regular weekly hack .It flies beautifully, retracts work perfectly despite many hundreds of landings, and no structural issues at all. On the standard fuel tank, my OS91fs will see 25-30 minute flights and when properly trimmed it will fly itself and can fly mere inches off the deck with barely a correction on the sticks (my party piece while making daka-daka noises in my head ) I have just expanded my fun factor by fitting wing pylons and droppable 500lb bombs to make strafing runs more dynamic, I would heartily recommend it as a first warbird but would recommend you get low wing tail dragger experience first (black horse travel air perhaps?- cheap and nice flier) Tally ho
-
i'll be honest, i have never used filler. i tend to research kits to get good crisp mouldings. Have a chat at the model shop for advice on that one. for sanding i would say wet and dry. the finer the better. The bigger the number (printed on the rear) the finer the grade ie 2400 is really fine and 80 is really coarse. to keep costs down, see if you can blag a few sheets from your local car bodyshop ( i work in the motor trade so thats where mine comes from - it doesnt even have to be brand new. most sheets tossed out have still got loads of life left in them and just need rinsing in clean water to get the debris out of them) just go steady on seams to avoid erasing detail or adding divots rich
-
CC i would go with satin. if you change your mind you could always add a coat of gloss varnish over it, but satin should look fine. With regard to thinning, if the paint seems too thick (certain colours do seem to vary in consistancy) then add a drop at a time. I thin it if surface detail disappears or brushmarks are visable. you can always add another thin coat but you can't take it away if its too thick. I tend to use acrylic as its water based which means mistakes can be removed with a damp cotton bud, brushes are easy to clean and drying can be sped up with a luke warm hairdryer ! i think most of mine look ok...
-
CC Depends what paint you are using. If Humbrol then i believe its 163 Dark Green and 164 Dark Sea Grey and 64 light grey for the underside. I dont use a primer as too many layers lose surface detail. I thoroughly wash all parts in slightly soapy warm water to remove any mould release agent and grease. To check coverage i would suggest a trial by painting the inside of the fuselage where it wont be seen ( rear section) to check coverage. Whether acrylic or enamel, if it needs to be thinned add one drop of water to acrylic or one drop of humbrol thinners at a time, mix well and retry till happy. Only then move onto visable airframe parts. Best of luck Rich
