Russ P

Put me in please.

Yes please

Pick me out please

Keep trying.

Put me in please.

Put me in the hat.

I'm in it.

Count me in.

Put me in please.

In it to win it, hopefully.

A recent article appeared in my local press regarding an application to use drones to deliver samples to hospitals. The flight corridor they are planning to use is very close to our flying site, and at a height of 300 feet, could be very interesting. CAA BBC Our chairman is having a very busy year!

Sorry but my post regarding the oleos was posted within Martin's post. The oleos are the ones in the kit, and the wheels are wobbly, so will fit a bearing. Will also give Dennis's other suggestions a go as well. Also, I've fitted HK retracts to a warbird and these have flat points for the grub screws to get a better grip and to date haven't had any movement. I'm thinking of ordering replacement ones they sell in packs of 10 when I next place an order. I've tried grinding flat spots in the past but not very successfully. I love flying this Chippy and I've fitted the lights. Thanks for the tips.

Really enjoy my Chippy, only 1 issue. Can anyone suggest how better to fix the oleos to the u/c pinion as I have to tighten the 3 grub screws so often, even after a good smooth landing. I did think of wrapping some tap around the pinion but the oleo is a tight fit. There are no flat points on the pinion. The field is bumpy with a few holes, but not bad. Thanks

That looks different, wow. Get to it Peter my enthusiasm has been tired. Cant wait to start building

Thanks for the heads up on the videos. It did go really well with the 55 in, its the same size as the 46 so fitted in easily. I try to fit a larger therefore heavier engine rather than put lots of lead up front. You don't have to go full throttle all the time! Had lots of fun with it thought I'd buy the kit version this time, something to do in isolation. Plus my local model shop had 1 in stock and he delivered to me.

I had an OS46ax in mine that required additional weight, so I put in an OS 55ax, no additional weight needed. Had the model for 3 years flew beautifully, until a low and fast pass...ouch!! Have replaced it with the kit version that's awaiting me finishing my latest build first.

He He: that would explain it!

Hi Richard, I inherited a CAP kit of the Gloster Gladiator. It also had old plans so I purchased new ones from Sarik as I had the reference number and it was the same plan. I would assume as both kits are of the same era, the build method is the same. Namely; no instructions other than a few notes on the plan. Lazor cutting not very accurate, the ply wing joiner rib cut outs did note match the plan only discovered this after building the wing over the plan, had to cut a new ply joiner. There is also a lot of bloc balsa in the tail and nose that requires sanding to shape (a lot of sanding)! All I would say is measure, trail fit, sand to shape before gluing. I used an electric sander! The plan shows a single servo central mounted in the wing, using a rod system to drive the ailerons, I put the servos in the wing. I've finished build now for the covering, shouldn't be any issues with that.... One last thing. Work out where everything is going to go, fuel tank/battery and so on before you start building. It will be a lot easier fitting as access to the internals may be very restricted Good luck.

Looks good. How did it fly?

That's the kit. I bought it from a fellow club member for £30, inc laser cut, wood pack, canopy, cowl. So mustn't grumble. It's produce by Sarik now. thanks to everyone for your comments.

This is a Cap kit, no instructions other than some notes on the plan, so some thought is required before cutting and glueing. So it's only when building is nearly completed you find where you went wrong. Hence the snake runs etc. I have always only used Sullivan snakes and will always do so unless needs must. Thanks for your replies, will give the Bowden a go. Can always remove it a and install the red Sullivan if I can get them. Cheers

I'm building an old Gloster Gladiator kit and the cable run to the rudder and elevator has a few bends which slightly restrict the rod movement of a Sullivan semi flexible rod so I thought of using a Bowden cable which has a much smoother movement due to its flexibility. My worry is that can it take the strain of the rudder/elevator. As its a scale model it will not require vast movement of the control surfaces anyway. Thanks

Hi I've been building the Cap Gladiator for the past 6 months and the only instructions are notes on the plan. You will need to work out a building plan yourself from the plan notes. Also I've found the laser cut parts do not match the plan and will need tinkering to fit. I've tried to dry fit before gluing and working out a process to follow. Definitely not an easy build! I bought the kit and all the accessories for £30, when I checked on Sarik it would cost £280 so can't complain, its just taking ages to complete. Made a lot of progress these past few weeks.