Phil Reeves

In a case like this I mark the firewall with a ballpen ink tube only through the new engine mount and then using a keyhole file file it back to the desired position.

Is anyone still watching this thread? Only I have just picked up a new kit on Ebay and wondered if anyone has flown one with an ASP 61fs.

Hi all, I have just found this thread only because I have the opportunity to get one as a local family have just cleared their fathers shed and have asked me to help them sell all the items. A new MR FW190 kit is among it all. looking forward to getting it as I have an SC91fs sitting idle and a pair of leccy retracts. Phil

Thanks Tommy, I did in fact find one befor eseeing your reply, it is though a P&W 2800R wasp twin radial. Still looks as good and the effect you get is amazing, thanks for the idea. Phil

Hi Tommy, I know its been a while since your last post but I have just started mine and wondered if you could email me the image of the radial you used.

I see you are using a CRRC26, what prop are you turning? Because of this thread and that I have a spare CRRC 26 V2 I will now have to get one.

I think that this model should follow others in the range, so my suggestion is   "Bustle"

Thanks for the info Owen, had another look at it last night and i still cant understand how my Son and I missed the problem, especially as we both fly Raptors!!!!. The top rotors have been fitted with two different blades, meaning that one has its trailing edge facing forward   so the only lift i was getting was from the lower rotor.  Ho hum, lesson learnt.

Hi guys, Having been given a CX2 for Christmas, i have found that I can only get the thing to hover about two inches off the ground. I have tried 3 different 2s lipos, all give the same performance (poor).  Any ideas?.

Ben, Do you have a Watt meter you can use, this will give you an idea of the current draw on your setup, my Emax 2812 on 3s lipo and 7x5 APC"E" draws a little under 10A for 98W, fitted to my Concept models Shark "E" is very fast and fully aerobatic.  If you aim for an all up weight of 12ozs or less it will fly well, however try an APC 8x6. Phil

Hi Ben,  This won't matter unless you have a problem with the alignment of spinner / prop to the nose of the model (too long). I have many Emax motors and run them like this, you can cut the shaft down if needed, but take care with how you grip whilst cutting. Which model is the motor destined for? as this motor is very powerfull when used with an APC"E" 7x5 and 3s.  Phil

Hi Jon,  This is to be a fun model for me and to train others with on days at the club that only permits electric flying, as you might realise i am a little further on than being a tyro pilot. Having said that the E Pioneer is a new inovation of suitable travel companions for holidays, and I want to be able to demonstrate it to new flyers who may not want to go down the nitro route. Heres hoping it flies as well as all of my other models.  Phil

Well guys, Having only just found this thread and read with interest your thoughts and ideas, i would like to add my pennies worth. I too have a Seagull "E" Pioneer in the hanger waiting its turn on the bench, it will be powered by an Emax 2826 06 and have an Emax 60A ESC, I already have the Vmar X-treme stick powered by this combination on a 4s 3200 lipo turning an APC "E" 13x6.5 prop. This model takes off very quickly and goes up at 45 degrees and I get between 7 and 10 mins of flying depending on throttle use. So I think this combo with a 12x8 on 4s and 12x6 on 3s will be perfect for the E Pioneer. I will let you know how things turn out, I have in hand a couple of light 4000 3s lipos and if i get balance ok i might put both in in parallel and have 8000 on tap, should give some duration dont you think

One day my time will come, hohum.

Love to have this, as it would be my 15th Wot 4 and will replace my aging trainer used in the club.

I used CA for all wood to wood joints and PVA for wood to foam on the wing panels, however PVA is fine for all work if you dont mind waiting. Epoxy for wing panel joints, this can also be used for the wing bandage and if you warm it up it flows better ( I use my hot air gun while spreading it, not too hot tho)

I have fitted mine with the control arm parrallel to the wing underside, just let in and epoxy some 1/4" square hardwood either end of the servo and screw the servo to that, mine extends 1/2" either side of the servo for strength. I personnaly do not like servo covers as it limits the inspections one can carry out before flight, the only time i use them is if the model has to belly land and it gives some protection to the arms or i mount them through the top of the wing. I am going to cut a hatch in the top deck, just forward of the canopy and just inside the cowl line, the cowl then acts as a locating guide / cover with  the rear hatch partition cut at an angle to allow removal but dont cut the spruce longerons along the sides or you will loose a lot of strength in this area. You can buy very good hatch release catches from most outlets and they are quite easy to fit, i still have to do mine.

Hi Jon, just to say that I have fitted Hitec HS 81mg into the wings, a perfect fit for the holes provided and the give excellent torque nearly twice as much as a standard servo that used to be used in the centre of the wing

Hi Jon Just to say that my Wot 4 "E" is powered by an E-flite power 46, but mine is turning an APC "E" 13x8, pulls 29A ( I think) on 4s 4400 and pulls the wot vertical. A 12 x 6 or 8 will be better on 5s, i hope to get some video of it soon and will post it here.

Timbo, sorry for the errors, use this method so often i forgot the right way to do it on here.

I too have limited time at the moment, as i have just become a Grandad for the second time with another grandchild due in two weeks, still gives me an exscuse to buy another model or two!!!

Hi Jon, Yes my model is biult and still deciding on how to power it, having got a few ic engines around the hanger to choose from, ASP 65fs, Saito 80, OS 70fs to name a couple. But I have realy enjoyed flying my Wot 4 and so I am seriously thinking electric for my Acro Wot. The link I attached is just one of many motors in the range and as you see come very cheap too, and don't let that put you off, I have been using the Emax series of motors too form China. I have the Vmar X-treme stick LW with an Emax 2826/06 on, a 13x6.5 APC "E" prop, on 4s 3200. This takes off in 15 feet and climbs at 45 degrees, however i only get around 6 to 7 mins from this pack and will try my 4400 4s later. Looking at the specs on your link, I think the Emax 2826 is a little better. Have a look at the attached link the specs given are better than shown, my setup pulls just 28A from the 3200 4s and could perform better still. link

Hi guys, Just found this thread, having just decided to leccy my new Acro Wot I wanted to see what others have done. My recent electrification of a Wot 4 mk3 was very sucessful, using an E-flite Power 46, 4s 4400 Lipo and a 13x8 APC "E" it gives me similar performance to my 46ic powered one. I am thinking of fitting one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=320306758665  This motor should give me similar performance to a 70 four stroke on a 14x7 and 4s.  What do you think?

Hi, I too have just had a birthday, and I didn't get what I wanted, this would help out!!!.

Thanks Chris, But the image shown is of the SAS Wild Thing, and my enquiry was for the Ripmax Wild Wing, a small electric flying wing of 30" span or so. However, I must say that I enjoy flying my Wild Thing, they are a great slope soarer or combat flyer arn't they.  Phil