Phil_G

If you're buying a B6 I'd suggest one from a reputable retailer rather than a £12 ebay cheapie. The B6 charger is so successful that it has been (badly) cloned but the copies aren't set up accurately and often use poor tolerance components - their voltage displays can be out alarmingly. But they look 100% convincing! A good charger is an investment that will give years of reliable service - remember, buy cheap - buy twice! Cheers Phil

Posted by James Middleton on 15/03/2015 09:59:54: It was an easy conversion.,...I cheated! Anybody remember "Micron"? I used to fly slope-soarers with Terry Tippett occasionally and we still chat by email from time to time. He was a huge galloping ghost enthusiast back then, had a Wizard of Oz glider with his own 'Gallatrol' radio (which incidentally I now have) He was chuffed to bits to see my Micron 'Elf' S/C set as they'd only made a hundred, unfortunately Micron released it rather too late and things had moved on from S/C so it didn't sell well in the 70s. My own 35mhz S/C set uses a Micron dual-conversion receiver board, with an escapement driver replacing the decoder. He's thrilled to see all the old gear being used again, albeit in a modernised form. A proper gentleman is Terry. Cheers Phil Edited By Phil_G on 31/03/2015 00:30:13

This is how I envisage it. But still only a guess: Sorry I seem to have accidentally used my old account, I'd asked for this one to be removed! Its Phil Green.

Posted by John Tee on 23/11/2014 16:28:02: The writeup states it treats the two packs as a 6s pack - they must connect in series in the yellow bit. +1 Posted by John Tee on 23/11/2014 16:28:02: Hi Iain. Looking at the link, if the yellow part is two deans plugs you plug the two packs in there (must be fitted with deans type plugs obviously). Not necessarily John, it looks to me like you just plug in the two JST-EH balance plugs from the 3S packs, it presents them as a 6S JST-EH and charges through the outermost balance leads of the 7 wires, which will be connected to the deans you can see in the photo.  The Deans on the 3S batteries would be unused.  But thats just a guess from the photo.   Edited By Phil_G on 23/11/2014 16:52:45

Posted by Shaunie on 19/10/2014 15:48:34: Remember that the ESC is probably made with lead free solder, you cannot successfully mix lead-free and leaded solder, For smt reflow repairs I would agree, but for hand soldering typical joints found in R/C its not a problem. Clean off as much of the lead-free as you can, make sure the joint is wet and be doubly sure to keep the mixed joint perfectly still until the solder has solidified, a mix will take slightly longer and will have a 'sludgy' state before setting. Cheers Phil

If you're that worried about your transmitter, just leave it at home. Launch your model without it. Free-flight is definitely covered by the insurance, because when flying without the radio it is obviously much safer than flying it with a dangerously modified death-trap of a transmitter with a missing CE sticker. This type of post comes up now and again, and always follows the same pattern. I wonder what is the real purpose of the discussion, since if the intention was to get a definitive answer, you'd ask the insurance company, rather than a bunch of random punters like us!   Cheers Phil Edited By Phil_G on 19/06/2014 17:41:24

Posted by Plummet on 19/06/2014 15:02:46: of course you do not have to footle around in assembler, you can use much higher level language. As Aristotle famously said, "pffft..."

Just have a go, you'll love it! One point to bear in mind is that some slopes have strict 'no motor' conditions, Callow bank is one, if the farmer finds a model with a motor, even if the prop has been removed, we could lose the use of the slope. So unless you are absolutely certain its ok, please dont even consider a powered glider. As others have suggested I would also recommend a SAS Wildthing but I wouldnt agree that it needs a strong wind - I find its an excellent scratcher and frequently holds its own amongst purpose built lightweights. Conversely it will handle winds you cant stand up in! Landing depends on the nature of the site, some have a flat area behind the slope where the air descends after rounding the slope, and you have to do is hang into wind as the model gently lowers itself down, correcting all the while to keep it into wind or tacking to & fro if the wind is below flying speed. On some slopes where theres nothing behind, or no access, you need to land on the slope, in lift. One way is to lose height, below the eye line, do a wide downwind turn back to yourself, then dump all the speed in a low, tight turn at head height. All being well you'll find the glider is again stationary into wind with only a few feet of height and you can gently lower it in with down elevator. The trick is to lose all the speed and height, then lower it in, all in one action, without letting the speed build up again. One of the benefits of sloping is that if you get it wrong, you can go around as many times as you like, there're no fuel to run out! Have a great time! Phil Edited By Phil_G on 02/12/2013 12:32:52

I wonder is it was a servo or linkage failure, or some W4FE's have had the tailplane come loose... Certainly from 50 feet a recovery should have been easy - it will easily bunt from 50 feet! if your instructor couldnt recover I think you're right to suspect some sort of failure, either mechanical, electrical or link failure, but for the same reason I doubt its the buddy setup. Was the failsafe set to cut the throttle, and did it? My first W4FE caught fire mid-flight and was repaired with thin ply doublers on the outside of the nose and fibre-tape across the length of the wing top & bottom (the sort that slope EPP flyers use). Its unlikely that yours is beyond some sort of repair! Cheers Phil Edited By Phil_G on 07/08/2013 20:08:37

You need the config software and an RS232 or USB lead from Frsky: **LINK** Cheers Phil

Posted by Rentman on 11/06/2013 19:26:54:The standard one has an 80 deg. lens and the V2 has a 120 deg. lens. Actually the V2 is available with A, B or D lenses. The main difference was that it introduced video out, useful for FPV etc Cheers Phil

Posted by WolstonFlyer on 11/06/2013 18:07:23: Cool, is that you on the bike Phil? Do you know if that is the wide angle 120 Degree Lense "D" ? Thats my youngest, the bike he's mostly chasing is my eldest. Both cams have the B lens. Cant remember why but I wasnt riding that day. This is my eldest with the camera following me at Donington, same 808 #16 cameras. Sorry for sidetracking, just answering the question!

I12fly - ignore my comments, I dont have a clue what I'm talking about. The people in the other  thread guarantee that you can fly your Baronette in any wind you like and it will have no effect at all on the plane. Happy landings I'm gone.

If an update is due in March then I'd wait, just to be sure you get any improvements. Be honest, how often would you fly it in Jan/Feb?  I'd double check that you're not being passed old stock though! I very much respect Chris's opinion, but I just wanted to balance things a bit with our positive findings.  Phil