Paul Williams

I have recently purchased a new AR7000 Rx and I am concerned about the time it takes to connect. I have tried re-binding several times but it still takes up to 15 secs to find each other. Once connected it passes range checks and seems solid. I have several other Rx's which power up much quicker from the same Tx. Is this normal or should I be concerned?

Thanks for a fantastic response, to try and cover some points;   The voltage reg actualy only has one output then splices into two so any problem there would have cut the engine I thought about two systems but I like the idea of the engine cutting should there be a power loss to the Rx.   The ariels were in the correct postion the model has flown before without any problems.   No I did not range check before taking off some thing I will regret and inprove on.   Alan C, the system was Li-PO powered it was a new battery and detatched on inpact so I could not check for flashing lights on the Rx.   The Ign unit was on the engine side of the firewall and the voltage reg 4" away from the Rx plus had a ferris ring on the output.   I have also range checked with the ariel pointing straight and it failed the range check I binned that set and bought a new one which passed in any postion! I try to remember to angle the ariel but to be honest I might have been flying with it straight. that is some thing else I could experiment with using the same TX & RX and my old hack.   I was talking to some club mates who seem to think JR have moved away from Spektrum because of problems which include lockouts. I would lke to find out if any crashes of this nature have happened with the new JR system?   The problem is I have not enough understanding of the systems to make any judgement I have seen quite a few glitches at our site when people fly 35 so rushing to change would not solve the dilema.   Is 2.4 solid or can the system fail under certain conditions? What can we do to reduce the risks? Are different makes more reliable than others?   I have one large scale model left in my shed and I dare not fly it, plus I will now have to mope around the house huffing and puffing untill er-indoors says "for gods sake go buy another one. " Its hard work!                

My point is if the TX or RX is faulty how can I tell?Edited By Paul Williams on 05/06/2011 19:16:24

I have just suffered one of them weird crashes that plaque you for months because you just dont know what went wrong. I noticed the plane glitch then recover on a straight and level pass I then tried to bring it round for a landing but it would not respond. The fail safe did not operate the motor was still half throttle, then it turned over and dived leaving me watching helplesly as £700 worth plunged to the deck. The Robarts survived but thats about all. The Spektrum DX7 and AR7000 Tx I later tested in another (cheap) model they showed no faults. The power system still worked and the voltage regulator has a twin feed one to Rx one to CDI so any faults there would have cut the motor. The li-po was 85% charged when tested. I am stumped and although 2.4 is supposed to be rock solid I cant help but feel interferance or something of that nature caused this accident. I could not find the black box anywhere LOL.

great thinking fella but the low and high needles are different threads, after 3 calls to Als Hobbies which three different members of staff all stated the slow run does not have an O ring I got fed up and ordered another carb. It arrived today and guess what it has an O ring just like mine !! Quite typically its a case of staff not knowing their products. So I have ended up paying 30 quid for an O ring. I should send it back but I cant be bothered.   Thanks for your comments Ian

Hi Guys, I have recently purchased a RCGF 65 and I am struggling to stop it four stroking at lower revs. I inspected the slow run valve and discovered a groove machined into the threads there is a matching machined dia on the carb. This convinced me that it should have an O ring to stop air passing the threads. However Al's Hobbies say not and their stock do not have this groove. Does anybody have this engine that could check if the slow run should have a seal. Or point me to where I can get correct information.   Thanks

Well the day finally arrived when all excuses where exhausted the sun was out and the wind not an issue. I'll apologise for the camera work I'm just gratefull my friends flying skills are much better than my video recording.Still you get a reasonable insight as to what a fantastic plane this is to fly. That is a testament to Top Flite rarther than my building skills. The RCGF engine is plenty powerfull enough with tons in reserve. I did not bother trying another prop the 22x13 was just perfect. The only thing to fault was the fast fill fuel valve which dumped half a tank down the fuse leaking at the fill point. I will be speaking to Steve Web about that. The Robarts worked flawless one fill was enough for the afternoon. No trimming at all it tracked perfect. I need to tune out the 4 stroking at low revs but I am happy to leave it rich for the first few flights. Very pleased with the kit and if this is your thing I have no reservations in saying get one. Enjoy the video guys and a big thanks to all who have commented and helped throughout the blog. Right when is the next scale competition    Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 27/04/2011 21:43:43

I agree Alan. I have cut away a large opening infront of the exhaust I will try this and if there are problems I can fabricate some ducting to direct hot air out. I am hoping with the cowl flaps being open the air can not remain trapped. Gonna be a suck and see senario Thanks for the feedback. Prop pitch MMMM there's a topic, my corsair (56cc) at first ran a 21x8, I broke it on landing and changed it for the only spare I had which was a 21x13 and I was surprised to find it suited the engine to pull more it ran really smooth without any 4 stroking through out the rev range. With the massive flaps landing is not a problem everybody remarks how slow it comes in ! So I just say to any body who asks me to recommend a prop size try various sizes untill you find the one which suits the model and engine. Once again thanks for the feedback points taken onboard mate.

Don’t you just love this hobby, after packing up and driving the 40 mile round trip I am ashamed to say it still has not left the ground. After arriving at the field I thought a few grass runs might be wise and I have to say it behaves impeccably taxiing no need to hold elevator and no sign it wants to tip on its nose. So one more final check over and I lined it into wind and opened her up ---------Nothing it just died. No amount of prop spinning would convince it to start. How embarrassing, two hours later and I found the problem I removed the slow run needle to check for dirt and noticed under the spring a groove about 1.5mm wide and deep cut into the thread. I headed home and after checking the parts listing it should have an O ring. I found one the right size in an old boiler repair kit and fitted it. Low and behold it started first flick and ran fine through the rev range. Now this engine has been run in and bench tested for weeks whilst I was building, It has run for three checks prier so how the hell did that O ring just disappear? Wierd. I did notice when the ground runs were done the motor was getting hot so I have decided to stick a baffle plate in the cowl. I also had a play with the air brush and weathered in the guns see what you think So its back to work tomorrow lets hope the weather holds out till Tue. Sorry to those who were looking forward to a video, next week I promise.

Posted by David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 21/04/2011 08:31:21: I can't believe how fast you've done this Paul, looks awesome. As Danny says, I've also never known a P-47 that doesn't fly well. thanks for your kind comments, David I have printed your remarks and passed them to Er-in-doors, She thinks 5 months is so unreasonable to have the conservatory as a work shop, its item 1 on the divorse petition. You will be my star wittness in court.          

OK day has gone well, the engine test was fine it manages 6000rpm with a 23x13 prop. I am concerned the cowl does not allow enough exit air. Just have to see whether it starts to overheat. A couple of video's for ya. A few more pics just in case it don’t return in one piece !! oh well wish me luck guys.

Fitted in the cockpit today, I am pleased I spent the time to detail this although I have yet to order the pilot. I will screw down the canopy instead of gluing it so the pilot can be seated at a later date. Ok the job list is diminishing, choke lever needs sorting and final balancing then we run to the stage where we just invent jobs because its much to scary to maiden it. I will pop it all together tomorrow and engine test it pop you a video on then.

The only fault I have found with the RCGF engine is the prop washer holes run out, It probably would not matter apart from the nose cone locates on the prop washer so it will not run true either. I did some tool making in my youth and still remember a few tricks so instead of sending it back I marked out and re-drilled the 4 holes Now it runs true happy days, the nose cone I am quite chuffed with by milling in four slots it sits over the lock nuts and prevents them from undoing. Its always a stigma how much torque you can put on when tightening down onto wood props, the wood just keeps compressing so I tend to lock wire the nuts or bolts. This method I hope will save all that messing around.

I can see the finishing line, it’s like a desert mirage just as you get close it shimmers away and you have to crawl onwards.

Its not often I will endorse a product; it really does have to do what it says on the tin. I top coated the wings and masked off the invasion lines when I removed the tape I was gutted the paint had bled under leaving a horrible finish. I went a brew and quite incredibly an advert came on TV for Frog Tape. Off to B&Q and a hour later the repainted results are quite different. The tape has a chemical which reacts with paint and swells into any recessed area to form a barrier so if the surface you are painting is not quite flat no problem. Wing masked up again with new tape. Finished result Right that’s the wings finished with the controls set up and just the retracts to go in, I will see to them when I have worked out an air circuit. On with painting the fuse, Oh no more rivets!! Primed with panel lines and ready for the rivets. This turned out a bit tricky, my rivet jig is only good for large contours and refuses to wrap around the fuse to do lines at 90 deg from the length. After much thinking I used the jig to make up strips of masking tape which will of course fold round anything. Just stick on the tape and trim down both sides with a Stanley blade, pop the soldering iron on and it just pops the holes in. remove tape and stick on fuse where required. The holes act as a guide in much the same way as the jig, it will remove and restick numerous times, happy days. You will have noticed the cooler vents. Wrap some sandpaper around the fuse then rub the vents against it to create a good match for the contour where they are fitted. When I came to mark out the invasion lines on the fuse I really struggled, no matter how I tried to mark it out the lines where wrong. I could not find a datum point to measure from then after a dose of thinking I realised the fuse would stand up square on its tail. So I employed a laser level by setting a height and turning the fuse round on its tail produced a straight line. I don’t think they employed this method on the full size version LOL

Back to the finish, the rivets where taking far too long so I knocked up a jig out of alloy strip The wing is ready for priming before adding lines and rivet detail I have made an air scoop for the cowl to cover the carb opening, I remember my DLE 30cc was a pig to tune this was due to air passing over the side inducted engine whilst in flight, a simple air deflector solved the problem. I know its not scale but better it runs well in my mind. Primed wing with panel lines Rivets added ready for top coat.

Its no good I have to start on the finish, after trying different techniques I have decided on the soldering iron to put the rivet lines on. The panel lines are quite easy with tape, I was not sure just how good the lines would stand out so I tried running down the grooves after removing the tape with a marker pen before the final coat. Although quite pleased with the end result I think I will dull down the lines by using pencil instead on the next section. The cowl is nearly ready for spaying And the cdi unit is fitted.

I got fed up glassing so went off to fit some guns instead. Using the V block method to set things up square I cut the holes with a sharpened piece of brass tube. End result

Third wire carries singnals so is not needed on battery connection, just trim tab and fit. Should not be a problem

Just buy from Hobbyking they mark everthing up as GIFT !

I will try the rivet tape from Mick Reeves. The good news is Raymond passed his bike test, just need a helmet for him! Cowl fitting always does my head in one of the reasons I chose this model was I figured the large fuse would help when fitting all the stuff into the cowl. How wrong both the carb and exhaust will need cut outs, I needed a working stand and normally I custom make one but a saw this idea in a mag and have to say its great one size fit all. The webbing is an old ratchet strap just drop in the model and it moulds to the correct contour. On with the glassing.

Thanks Danny your right, a few hours now will make a big difference.

Next step was to sort the wing fillet sections, I stared at this some time before I decided to improvise with some taper section to build the width the rear is sheeted as instructed. Whilst the filler is setting onto the bellypan. Straight forward here I felt the space here was wasted and decided to use it, I buried an extra air cylinder in there hopefully it’s a no maintenance item so I have not bothered with a access hatch. I feel the advantage of extra capacity will outweigh the few grams extra. Finish sheeting up. I keep putting it together to inspire me on, I am reaching the stage where I am fighting the urge to just finish it and fly. It was my intension to take my time and complete the job with lots of detail like panel lines and rivet heads but the thought of 30-40,000 rivets plus the weather improving week by week Mmmmmmmm. Show piece or useable toy?  

Posted by Richard Wood on 17/03/2011 12:45:11: Very impressive Paul - nice work.   I've just been trying Ronseal 'Ultra Coat' clear spirit-based polyurethane Thanks fella will try it

Starting to think about the finishing on my 1/5 scale jug, can you get panel line and rivet head tape in one strip? the only stuff I can find you have to do them seperate. What a ball ache.