Yorkman

Sooooooooooo.......if the setup pulled 13amps at WOT duration would be 6 minutes? 10C? Sorry if that seems an obvious question/answer-just trying to get clear in my head!Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 31/08/2009 11:21:56

'Duration will remain pretty much the same as long as the capacity is the same. ' 'However flightimes at WOT ) would be 60 /20 =3 minutes, and thabttery would be goosed pretty quickly. ' So....any 20c battery will be flat in 3 minutes? Whatever the capacity? Confused now...

OK...so I'll do a bit of thinking aloud here...are there two ways of addressing this? a 20c 1300mAh battery delivering 20amps is at the high end of it's ability.. so a 30c 1300mAh could theoretically deliver 39amps so at 20amp demand would be 'working' at half effort? or a 20c 1800mAh pack could give 36amps so also only working at 55%...? How do the different packs affect flight times? Is the 30c pack-using your calculation-60/30=2 minutes =50% (of theoretical maximum) therefore 4 minutes.... Or the 20c 1800 3 minutes = 55% so 5.45 minutes...?   My brain hurts...

OK...let's see if I can make sense of this. We reckon each motor will pull about 10amps...so 20 total. Apparantly 2s 1500mAh will fit, but we are talking about 3s-which giantcod have in 1300mAh packs, so will use that for now... so-am I right here?-to get 20 amps from a 1.3ma battery is 20/1.3=15 and a bit....so 20c more than adequate? Or a meringue?     How's it go-give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day...give a man a fishing rod, he'll sit around on a boat drinking beer all day....

Giantcod are selling 6 channel 2.4ghz tx/rx sets based on Futaba for 52 quid! Probably less than your replacement 30mhz rx......that's what i'd do if i didn't already have a Spekky.

just looking at lipo packs now-will i need a 30c-40c pack,25c-35c or 20c-30c????

Posted by Timbo - Moderator on 04/07/2009 15:05:17: I now favour the AR500 for models requiring up to 5 channels as these are twin aerial units, and guaranteed OOS range. Just ensure the proper QC is enabled. For models requiring 6 - 7 channels...the AR7000 is king. You may find this thread interesting over on RC groups. Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 04/07/2009 15:06:38 that was my next question re the GAD Mosquito, answered perfectly! AR500 now on my shopping list-cheers!

thanks Timbo- I would be completely lost without this forum!

Posted by Andy Freeman on 21/08/2009 21:43:54: Unless you want to know how to crash it into a tree I would not ask!!!   Being serious I found the build a bit of a chore. The wings were oK but the laminating and sanding of the fuselage was purgatory.....    already skilled at crashing into trees (1/4 scale ASW17 at roundway many years ago!) laminating and sanding I can live with-it's wing building I hate! What speed controllers did you use-the motorsTimbo recommended http://www.giantcod.co.uk/fc2805-1600kv-brushless-outrunner-motor-p-403764.html look good to me-did you use 2s or 3s lipos? I'm thinking 12 amp speed controllers? Thanks for your input, appreciate it.

Posted by Andy Freeman on 21/08/2009 20:33:22: Thats what I got for mine anyway.   Btw I ought to have read Timbos post more closely. I think he just had a typo for the wattage....  you have one then Andy? Any pics and advice?

I'm treating myself to one of these, my first model aircraft purchase in about 8 years! The info on the webpage re motors is as follows-  Motors - 2 x GAD 21g Brushless with 5x3 - 6x3 Prop, GBv with 11t Wye - 5x3 prop   can anyone translate that into what I should be looking for on Giantcod? Thanks in advance Martin

Trouble is I only fly once in a blue moon anyway, and have also inherited a half finished Bristol Bombay project which I probably won't get around to ever doing anything with....

Hi all I have inherited two OS Wankels from my father-he bought them maybe 12 years ago to go in a DC3, but they were never fitted. One was run-in as per the manufacturers instructions, and made a couple of flights in a hack model, the other, I'm fairly sure, is brand new untouched. They are both in original boxes with paperwork etc. Just wondered what I might expect to get for them? I only fly electric! Cheers Martin

just come back after a few months away...hmmm. why-have i missed this earlier in this thread?-can i not go from a thread  in the 'electric flight' forum (say) back to the 'electric flight' index, but have to go back to the main index and scroll down to specific forum and enter again and find the next thread? is that intentional? it's flippin annoying...

Martin are you SURE the servo leads are properly fitted? I had the uncommanded servo movement and could only put it down to the servo plug being not quite all the way home-because the rx is so small and the plugs are crammed so tightly together. I thinned my plugs on wet and dry so they slid home easily-and no more problems to date (fingers crossed, touching Brazilian rainforest!) Martin (too)

Hi Nik thanks for the positive input. Once it happens I will keep an eye on the aileron setup. As for the powertrain, I was intending to ask for guidance re alternative motors as I can't find the GAD ones on the web, and the 'complete' package from greenair seems awful expensive compared to what you can get motors/escs/servos for from giantcod... how heavy/what wingloading is the Beverly? Same size as the York...

' The trouble is, glitches can cause reputational damage to our club.  We have a Bowling Club within 400m and a general athletics field perhaps 800m away.' Had a 'glitch' at my one visit to Romanway in '86 I think it was.... Ended up with my ASW17 in a vertical power dive behind the tug (piloted by one of the 'big name' modellers of the time-can't remember which, so won't mention names in case of libel action!) promptly followed by wingfold and a Schleicher-shaped hole in the cricket pitch over the road-thankfully not the one with a match being played..... Mr Teakle provided a new fuze and she flies to this day!

Hi Martin I had an elevator servo 'runaway' on my York, and managed to reproduce it by waggling the lead at the rx. I think the servo sockets are so tight together on those little receivers it is possible to not get the plugs in properly-I resorted to thinning the servo plugs on wet and dry to make them go in a little more easily-and haven't had a problem since...thankfully-seeing the York loop was not good for my heart!!

servos for 2 quid at giantcod.com!

Wess a better indication of thrust line is once you're flying-if you can trim straight and level on, say, half throttle, then open up to full, speed should increase and maybe nose up a little bit, but if the model pitches up steeply or dives for the ground, you have your answer. The hand launch problem sounds like lack of speed!

Name in the hat....

My Wik Salto desperately needs a new canopy....bought second hand in about,ooh '88, had to renew the solarfilm on one wing panel due to barbed wire damage,otherwise has been maintenance free for 20 years, has a mechanical mixer as so perfectly described by Eric earlier in this thread for rudder/elevator and is impossible to get back on the floor if there is any lift at all..

Louis-Terry is under the same misunderstanding that putting the prop on backwards reverses the direction it works-IT DOESN'T!!! Take a propellor and put it on the table in front of you-decide which way it needs to rotate to 'lift off'. Now turn it over.....you'll see it needs to rotate in the same direction! It isn't a 'pusher' prop you need, per se, it's a 'left hand' one!