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Sheldon Holy

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  1. Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 07/05/2019 15:13:18: Posted by Percy Verance on 07/05/2019 13:53:38: I take it you're referring to the artf hardware there Jon? I have read moans about that before. The Wot kits I've had did have quite usable accessories......... yup. I wasnt at all impressed by the stuff that came with my AWXL. Sheldon, i sure do and its rapidly becoming my go to model. I flew it on sunday in fact and set up a mix to help with landing. Due to the big fat engine up front its a bit nose heavy so tends to land very fast as i run out of elevator power when it slows down. As flight performance at all but landing speed is great i dont want to alter the balance so added some up elevator using the flap/elevator mix. As i dont have flaps i only get the up trim, but this combined with more faith in the engine gave me much nicer landings last time out. I just have to remember to click the mix off if i go around as it will climb like crazy if i leave it on Interesting, I bet it sounds good too. It seems the Wot designs are usually happy being a bit overweight, which is one reason I chose it for my turboprop. What does the OS weigh? Have you tried flaperons? On mine I've replaced all the supplied clevises for Kavan M3 ones and moved the two elevator servos to the tail.
  2. Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 07/05/2019 10:00:15: I have flown the Wot4 XL, AWXL, WWXL and Wot4 Extreme. All were great performers in the air but the quality of the kit, and especially the hardware, was poor. The choice of colours is also an interesting one on the middle two. This could explain the poor sales? I customer told me that the WWXL was discontinued but apparently noone told Chris himself as it came as a shock when the customer called him for help.     Do you still have your AWXL with the OS four cylinder engine? Personally I love the colour scheme on the AWXL and prefer it to the standard size model, but that's entirely subjective. The kit is cheap and quality is about as I'd expect, however the quality of the construction is quite good, I thought. Still, you have to fuel proof the front end and do various other bits if you want the model to last. I find that most ARTF kits I've had, no matter the manufacturer or price, really aren't built to last as a homebuilt model might be. Therefore, I've made various improvements on models that I want to last. My Hangar 9 Super Cub has been as good as gold after some strengthening and other improvements, for what is basically just an overpriced Seagull kit. The main thing with all ARTFs I've had has been covering. I've never seen any sort of extra adhesive (balsaloc etc...) used and so the covering always comes off at the edges after some time. The stripes on my AWXL tried to fall off when I took it out the box... One thing I don't quite understand is why sell the kits with poor quality hardware, such as clevises that will make the model crash? You'll end up with upset customers with broken models, and then once word spreads around everyone will have to factor the cost of extra hardware into the cost of the kit, so it's a false economy. I'd imagine that the main reason for poor sales of the XL models (Wot 4 Xl aside, as they seem to be everywhere) is that people buying a 30-40cc size model will usually be going for scale or 3D. Not that many people have such models as normal Sunday hacks. Hopefully it works out with Ripmax. I highly doubt they will go bust but I expect a lot of restructuring will be happening, in which time other distributors such as Perkins and CML could pick up the product lines. Edited By Sheldon Holy on 07/05/2019 14:08:54 Edited By David Ashby - Moderator on 08/05/2019 16:04:59
  3. Does this forum include the XL? If so, here is some progress on mine.   All normal Acro Wot XL assembly, with some exceptions. I had a power plant available for a model of this size and, for many reasons, I really wanted an Acro Wot XL. The Acro Wot is probably the nicest flying power model I've ever flown, and it looks great too. Even the foam one flies beautifully. The ARTF is also very cheap for the size, and whilst it is a "budget" kit, there is really nothing to complain about quality wise. All ARTF models come from the same factory anyway, Hangar 9 for example is made in the Seagull factory...   Anyway, the Chris Foss ARTFs are out of stock everywhere and many have no delivery dates, Acro Wot XL included. Luckily I found a kit at a model shop in Germany, it cost an extra £50 or so but still worth the money. Unfortunately, it arrived without the cowl or landing gear in the box which appears to be a mistake from the factory. No reply from the model shop, so I guess that's that. Anyway, I found a set of Alphawing Xtra Wot size landing gear at SMC which is a near perfect fit, and I am making my own cowling anyway....   All normal so far. And then I made a hole in the front.... ... Because I want to fit this: It's a P20 with a CNC Modelparts turboprop unit. I've always wanted a turbine (who doesn't!) but no local flying sites are suitable. Turboprops are another several levels of interesting higher for me, especially this miniature PT-6 style unit with a free secondary turbine. I like how the engine is backwards, amongst other things (did I mention it's a turboprop?!). Some considerations: - No vibration from the turboprop and they are surprisingly quiet, usually quieter than a two stroke petrol - They drink fuel, this will need a litre tank for a safe 8 minute flight. Also it's long, so the turbine sits where the tank normally would. Luckily the fuselage on this model is a good size with loads of room for the turbine and a 1L tank to sit on the CG, with heaps of room left for batteries etc... - Engine/gearbox weighs about 1450g, so about the same as the NGH 38cc four strokes that sometimes go in these models.   I felt it necessary to at least try and make a slightly interesting engine mount, so I came up with the following:   I need to tidy up the hatch, sort a cowl (plan on carving blue foam and then glassing) as well as sorting out suitable ducting to ensure the airflow to the turbine intake is isolated from the hot section.    I also fitted dual elevator servos at the tail and cut the tail post to properly epoxy the horizontal stabiliser in. CAing it in place seemed inappropriate as it wasn't a 100% snug fit anyway.   Another reason I went for this model is I already have everything I need. I will be going for a dual receiver setup as per my other larger model (H9 super cub). One receiver and battery for each half of the plane, fully independent. I had to stagger them to make the fit:   And that's where I've left it for the evening. I will pick this project back up when I have some time, but hopefully not too long. The gubbins for the turbine (lipo, fadec and pump) don't take up much room and the tank fits nicely:       Edited By Sheldon Holy on 07/05/2019 00:04:14
  4. For individual aileron servos on this, I'd use Towerpro MG90s. More than good enough for this application. Cheaper than Hitecs too.
  5. I've never had any issues with Lipos. That is, the thing randomly blowing up. I've intentionally blown up too many to count.
  6. Prosynth is good stuff. I've used it in all my engines with no hassle. Well, there is one exception. I ran some 20% Prosynth 2000 in a helicopter with an O.S. 50. Hyper. I took the head off when suddenly I couldn't turn the thing over. I was quite shocked to see that the top of the piston and the inside of the head were so badly corroded that I couldn't even dismantle it. I'd had no problems running it on 20% cool power before then. That being said, I'd used fuel from that same bottle in other (aeroplane) engines without any issues so I have no idea what happened. That was about four years ago. But I thought it might be worth mentioning.
  7. I was flying a friend's Magnatilla doing formation touch 'n' goes with a WOT 6 (Homebrew 80" WOT 4 with a 26cc petrol engine)... He chopped my tail clean off and the poor maggie flopped down to the ground like a fish out of water.    
  8. I'm getting an FPV setup at christmas. I'm going to get a Flyingwings V-Trainer. I had one a while back, and it was probably the best plane one could imagine: Cheap, well made, no matter how hard you crashed it it always bounced back without a scratch, and it is a pusher-you get a great view out the front.The deal on the new V2 one has a more powerful motor, and a better aerofoil. It doesn't have much space inside, but one could cut out a space in the front (the nose is just a huge block of foam) and fit everything in there, away from the esc, battery, motor etc... With a LOT of room to spare.  Sheldon Edited By Sheldon Holy on 03/10/2010 09:48:16
  9. looks very nice!Great job on building too, i hope it flies well! Are you sure that is an Extra 260? The cowling is all wrong, just as you pointed out. Sheldon
  10. Yes, Armstrong, the commander, would have had semi-manual control over the lem from several hundred feet until landing. The lem would be stabilised by computers but the direction etc... was controlled by the commander.
  11. Hi, Got the kit, no plan on mine either. I see why it doesn't have one-all the parts are so accurately cut. I'll start a build blog this evening. It is a very nice kit, for sure. They are very intricate to build. Sheldon
  12. 40 quid (PA) for me, a junior, including BMFA. I think about £100 for a senior, not sure.But the joining fee is less than normal at a dismal £35, including things like a restraint etc... as well as BMFA membership. But the field, compared with many is actually very bad, in a valley, near a road, with a hill in front of us which causes very wierd pockets of air...  Sheldon
  13. Another double post...Edited By Sheldon Holy on 16/05/2010 15:07:42
  14. Oh, probably a bit late, but the hole on the control horn should be over the hinge line, you get a much less sloppy linkage.Nice build though!Sheldon
  15. More piccies!I'm going to the toy shop to pick up the Jamara Pitts, looks like a nice model.Gonna overpower it with the 2814 from BRC. 300 watts, should have over a 2:1 thrust ratio... Sheldon
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