Nick Lambert

Yep that's the symptom Garry. On my wotty if I fly straight and level with a bit of speed  and then give full rudder it will barrel roll (losing a bit of height with no correction).

 Frank  If your interest in getting a lathe keep an eye out on ebay. Old industrial types pop up from time to time at really good prices. I got mine, a Colchester Student 1800, from a machine refurb company and with hind site I paid a bit over the odds. However, I did manage to pick up a really decent series 1 Bridgeport milling machine for 600 quid from ebay.  Nick 

Hi Andy,  Then that should work just fine without a pressure feed.   Nick

If you take off and have no control with the ailerons and giving more doesn't lift the wing, your probably going too slowly.  Put the nose down to gain air speed and use the rudder to steer towards the high wing, it will have more authority than a stalled wing. With luck you'll be able to recover.  On your next attempt try a longer take off run before lifting off and don't go up so steeply, just a very gentle climb out.  Hope that helps. Nick 

Hi Garry,  No not by reducing rudder (unless you have a very big movements where it can help) but by using  opposite ailerons.  So if I want to turn to the right, I give right rudder and a bit of left aileron to compensate for the right twist. You can practise by flying straight and level towards your self, give the rudder input and then as you get roll add opposite aileron to hold the wings level. Once you've got the measure of how much you need try it in the stall turn.  Some folks would add a mix in the radio to compensate but I just use the sticks.  BTW Some models will not have the behaviour at all the will just yaw in a straight line; my Fliton 330S does this maneuver fine but for me it doesn't bunt that well as it tends to screw out in the last quarter hence I didn't use that model for the B. To be honest I'm not a big fan of the bunt so don't often do them from the top in my general flying. Nick 

I'll give it a bash, not done this before  Nick 

Don't jnow that engine Frank but I did an OS 91FS exhaust extension a while back and it was a metric thread and .75 pitch. I think my OS 1.20 FS has the same thread pitch too. I know it was an unusual size and when I checked the taps and dies for it were quite expensive so I cut the threads on the lathe. Nick

Hi Andy, What engine is it? Four strokes can be set up to run fine without presure. You'll probably need to retune the needle to be a bit richer than the setting you have now.

Yep John, I know what you mean having different planes each of which is best at a different manover and not having everything perfect in the one model. That was the case with me and my models. In the end I did my B with my trusty wotty. Mine has a lot of roll with rudder so I had to be careful to compensate on the stall turn so as not to also put a 90 degree twist in at the top. At the end of the day the examiner will have a pretty good idea of the flight chracteristics of the plane. Sure they want to see you fly the manovers OK but they are really looking to see that you can control the model and ensure that you would be safe to fly in front of the public. IE. it is not about performing a top notch 100% perfect aerobatic schedule so don't get too worried about pin point precision. If you can fly all the manovers pretty well using a mixture of planes you should be able to take one and fly it well enough to pass with just one. I guess I'm saying that having done it, it is not as hard as I thought it would be. Good luck Nick