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Ben Buckle Taylor craft


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 The finished Taylorcraft . Blog will follow if the picture  down loads .Well after down loading Photo bucket I still dont know wether or not the picture has downloaded ? This really is a complicated system  
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Ah Triumph ! But why  oh why cant we just copy and paste or browse like other sites?

Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/04/2010 12:40:14

Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/04/2010 12:42:54

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Hi ED - no picture I am afraid
You have two methods of inserting pictures either from your album, or via a host such as photobucket. Neither are really that complicated once you have done it a few times - I agreee not as simple as some, but , well, we are stuck with this method on this forum I am afraid.
I take it you have followed the tutorials on inserting pictures to the letter?
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Thanks Phil . The aero historians will no doubt be saying that this model was not used in the military as it is the civilian model . Well this was built for a bit of fun . A change from the vintage colour schemes we all expect .
My build pictures start with the  Fuslage construction nearly complete . Early building couldn't be filmed as my camera bust . The strucyure is typical vintage as you can see from the pics. Engine intended at this stage was an ME Snipe but the exhaust stacks got in the way of fitting mounting nuts so A Frog 150 was called into service.
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Another shot of the fuslage A lot of small addition were made to the fus at this stage . Areas around the dowl mountings and where the U/c enters the fuz were given landing areas to support the covering and allow adhedsive for the covering to  be fixed to.Use very light balsa for this .
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Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/04/2010 20:04:44

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The airframe has now been given a coat of "Clearcoat " made by solar film . It sold as a fuelproofer and is heat sensetive , its also much better tthan balsa lock or similar prodcts for fixing covering to balsa . Its fuel proof and wont let the covering lift on the overlaps .I give the airframe a coat of full strenght clearcoat where the covering will touch the air frame and allow to dry overnight. Prior tocovering apply a thin coat and allow to become touch dry . When cutting Litespan you will notice a grain running along it ,this need to run the lenght of the piece being covered. I cover the bottom then the sides and finally the top . When each piece has been ironed down and trimmed ( allow at least 3mm ,prefereably 6mm overlap ) Now apply  clearcoat on the overlap area to stick down the next piece.
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Light Span  is my pefered covering  for light weight models up to about  50 inch span and excellent results can be acheved with a little effort  . It is much stonger than tissue, Dont forget to cut the litespan with the grain goin the length of the wing or fusalge. Litespan also has a matt side that looks more like a doped tissue finish or a satin side. Either side can be used and both are totally fueproof and will not need any further treatment or coating.
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Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/04/2010 20:19:09

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I have painted area prior to covering and fitting the screens . Ive also given all areas around the engine bay a couple of thin coats of Clearcoat to stop any oil soaking should oil get under the covering. I also apply a thin coat to the inside of the lite span to fix it around the engine bay . This has to be thoroughly dry before fixing and stretcing around cowling .Litespan will stretch well over compound curves with a little help of your hot air gun , it will take a lot of heat before splitting or tearing.
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Next the Fuel tank. I make my own tanks for diesel fuel .Its really easy as older modelers will know . A good source of tin plate is sweet or biscuit tins . Ive made this tank  to fit the rear of the engine bay and allow the engine to be slotted in or out for any maintainance . Its glue in place with epoxy and gives around 8 min flight times . Not recommended for glow fuel  as tin plate will corrode /rust and mess you engine . Make a mock up of tank using thin card . When happy cut the tin plate with scissors . Top tip ! dont use your wifes scissors !!
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Once the tank is installed I fitted some lightweight snakes to the rudder and elevator .Then finished covering the airframe .The tail plane  and wings covered . Tail plane and fin have  not been glued on yet .
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Edited By Engine Doctor on 07/04/2010 21:44:36

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I used some litho plate to cover the join between the windscreen and side screens . These were made from the tops of Christmas cracker boxes . The only trouble is finding a suitable adhesive . I finally used Bostik extra strong . I would have used Zap-a-dab-a goo .,excellent glue but it seem sthat its not being sold in the UK any more .If anyone knows differently  ,please let me know .
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Thanks David . All overlaps of the covering have been given a final coat of Clearcoat before painting the roudels and stripes . These were sprayed using Humbrol Mat and some frisk film for masking . Jump forward to maiden flight . A cold stiff breeze  . Engine set to a medium fast ( thats the beauty of a diesel ) and chocs away .

Edited By Engine Doctor on 07/04/2010 22:19:25

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Overall impression of kit . Plenty of good quality well cut balsa etc . Quite expensive compared  with what you get in some  ARTF's but good fun to build and a chance to use thos old diesel engines .  Not recomended for a novice builder  as instuctions on plan are a bit vague . Needs a few tweaks here and there to make a neat model . Its easy and a delight to fly , just as well as no throtle control means you flyit till it stops  What it really need is someone to sell coloured rubber bands !

E.D.

Edited By Engine Doctor on 07/04/2010 22:50:10

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