Adrian Day Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Hi Eiffion looking good there ... nice and clean long shot do you still a bare frame looking as I'm looking for the weight of the fus alone so i can compare the weight with my remodelled version regards Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eifion Herbert Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 Hello Adrian, Yes, much to my shame I still do have a largely bare fuse, reached a bit of a stop with the glazing, well not a stop really, just finding it fiddly to get neat, and therefore procrastinating, I must get back to it and finish her off. So my fuse is largely bare, though I have covered the tail feathers in litespan, and installed the motor, ESC and two servos. In this configuration she tips the scale at 225g, or a shade under 8oz in old money. Hope this is helpful Eifion PS While I'm here, does anyone have any tips on how best to attach the undercart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 evening Eifion it takes a little playing about to get the glazing right took me a little time to get right that's why I'm now building a second one now that i have learnt from my mistakes.. and i think i made a few but i have had a good teacher helping with electrics good sir Steve H . he Is a good man and from the way he works things out, i don't think there is much he don't know that's not worth knowing thank you for the post on the weight of the model nice weight only 8 oz you have been working well on that one. will put that with my model weight and see where it comes out over the top of your model.. see what i have added in the way of building my one with a joint wing. as for your under cart if you take a look at my (Christmas Winner Build) you will see how i did my first but i would change the amount of copper plate and just make P clips out of copper plate so that you can fit a screw through. its lighter and looks good to .. If i remember right Tim's original model was done the same way look on page 2 of this post you can just see it in Tim's build pictures i think regards Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eifion Herbert Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Thanks Adrian, That looks like a really neat way to attach the wheels. I'd been looking for some nylon saddle clamps but couldn't find them in a narrow enough gague for the wire I've used for the undercart. I think I will try the copper plate route. Could I ask what thickness plate you used, and what tools and techniques were needed to form the correct shape? I'm ok with sticks, but have no experience of shaping metal. Thanks, Eifion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 your welcome Eifion i got some 0.025 x 10mm x 150mm from my local model shop and cut it into 20mm lengths using tin snips folded it over with blunt pliers and soldered then i drilled a small hole once in place...but that's just me don't know if others do it different you could just drill it but in my books its not as secure as a little solder.... the wire for the landing gear is pretty simple i used pliers and bent it to shape over the plan.. most would make it in a vice .. cutting the piano wire i used a mini drill with mini disc in .. but i would guess a hacksaw would do it??? Hope that's a little help Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted December 14, 2012 Author Share Posted December 14, 2012 Eifion, You can cut thin copper plate with an old pair od scissors, and make holes with hammer and nail. God, eh? tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 Eifion i would also guess a pointed bradewl could be used just the same .. to make the hole.. as the copper is pretty thin.. . Tim did the thickness seem ok for the copper i suggested? dont want to put something that other may not agree wit, and as your the designer your aggreance in what to use would be better than my suggestion.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eifion Herbert Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 Where did you get copper that thin from? the thinest I can find on ebay is 0.3mm, over ten times the thickness you used. I'm fairly sure I can cut and drill thin copper plate, it's forming it neatly around the udercarriage wire that is going to take me a few attempts to get satisfactory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 good morning Eifion I get my copper from a local model shop called Colin bliss models.. you will find his shop online to you may have to email them think they will send it. but you can find it on ebay here but its a little expensive .. i don't think a little thicker would matter to much if you couldn't get the thickness i suggested ok it would put a little extra in the weight dept. As for forming the copper plate that's easy and as its so thin you can form it round most things.. i think you will do it once and then you will have it ... when i do it i cut the length i need then make an L shape put a length of wire into the corner then form it over the top ..then using blunt pliers i gentle form.. If its a little longer you can always trim it.. same way as Tim said with scissors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eifion Herbert Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 ah, 0.025 inches! I was thinking in metric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 he he! sorry should have put that didnt think.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony ie tony Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Hi all I am building the pix-e 1st build for me but am a little stuck on how to fit the rudder and elevator ie what size/type of hinges isd any body able to help thanks Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eifion Herbert Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Hi Tony, I just used the covering material as a hinge, perfectly OK for a small model. Eifion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 what i used Tony was they these little things they worked well for me and are very light .used it on both my pix-e's look half way down this site for MINI METAL PIN HINGES as you can see in this picture regards Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted December 31, 2012 Author Share Posted December 31, 2012 Hello Tony and welcome to the forum! There are quite a few ways to hinge the control surfaces. I used fragments of commercial 'hairy' hinges on mine (combined with a drop of CA adhesive), You could sew them using strong thread, use Sellotape, etc. It's not critical as long they the surfaces can move freely and so don't impose too much load on the servos. Soooo......any pics? tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eifion Herbert Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Here she is, almost ready to go. Just need to finish off the glazing, and arrange for some calm weather. Once that's done I'll be back with some flying photos and hopefully a video clip. I also need to persuade my battery and radio gear to stay put, my usual method of self adhesive velcro isn't cutting the mustard. Maybe the sticky-backed bit isn't as sticky as it once was! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Looks lovely Eifion.....the salt & pepper grinders set her off a treat.... Your simple colour scheme works really well too....... I think Tim used a simple EPO foam lined box that he pushed the LiPo into.....might be a good solution for you too perhaps? Looking forward to hearing about the maiden..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 Eifion, Superb! Another simple, but classy colour scheme that shows the Pix-E to its best advantage. The trick I learned with self-adhesive velcro is to smear some CA glue on the balsa, and let it dry, before sticking the velcro in place. tim Edited By Tim Hooper on 01/01/2013 16:18:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Posted by Tim Hooper on 31/12/2012 21:23:30: Hello Tony and welcome to the forum! There are quite a few ways to hinge the control surfaces. I used fragments of commercial 'hairy' hinges on mine (combined with a drop of CA adhesive), You could sew them using strong thread, use Sellotape, etc. It's not critical as long they the surfaces can move freely and so don't impose too much load on the servos. Soooo......any pics? tim If you can find it, "diamond tape" is better as its UV resistant, unlike regular sellotape which will brown and lose grip quite quickly. Perhaps you could use coloured parcel tape over the sellotape, or even use solarfilm to hinge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Tim sorry to bother you.. little lost .. have built the other pix-E that you have seen on my blog. but now i have a problem and I'm a little unsure how to sort it i have have put in snakes running from cockpit to tail.. now when i connect them i don't have any push movement . pull is ok but as for push it moving about 3 mm .. do you have any idea how i may combat this .. would really like the servo's inside this model. Regards Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eifion Herbert Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 What is probably happening is that as the servo is pushing the snake it is bending the snake rather than making the inner slide back and forth within the outer cable. Have you tried attatching the outer to the frame of the fuselage at several points along its length? It can take a bit of trial and error to find the best position, if using snakes i find it useful to use cable ties to secure the outer in various places until I'm happy with the movement, then glue it down with epoxy. Also check that your control surfaces move freely through the whole range of motion in both directions without the snakes connected. Any resistance or binding in the surfaces will mean that the servo finds it easier to bend the snake instead of move the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Yes I would agree with Eifon here Adrian......the outer for the plastic snake should be fixed AT LEAST at the beginning & end of the snake (ie near the servo & where it emerges from the fuselage). Ideally at several points along its length too. I would normally sheet in an open section near the tail before covering so I could drill through it & secure the end of the snake to the sheet balsa as it emerges from the fuselage. I would also add a couple of cross pieces in the rear section to attach the snake to. Another good tip is to wrap the snake outer in a turn or two of masking tape......this helps the glue (epoxy is ideal) stick to the snake outer much better. Now...I'm going to anticipate your next question....because you've already covered the fuselage you can't get to the snake runs nor add any sheet at the rear so how are you going to fix them in place? Well the bad news is.....with great difficulty.....!!! But lets look on the bright side.....you have learned something new which you will remember & take with you to your next build.......so thats good isn't it... Now...how to solve the problem.....personally I can think of two ways......first one would be to forget the snakes altogether & fit pushrods.....if these are stiff enough they won't need any support mid fuselage & if they are small enough there should be no issues with them clashing at the tail end where it gets a bit narrow. Perhaps some 2mm od carbon tube will do the job....cut to length & then insert a short length of 1mm piano wire at each end to connect to the servo.....a dab of cyano to lock the wire into the tube & a short length of heatshrink tubing over the joint for neatness & Hey Presto a stiff lightweight 21st Century pushrod..... Second option & one of my favourites would be a length of plastic tube from the Plastruct range with an id of about 2.3mm with a length of 1.5mm wire run through it to actuate the control surface. Similar in concept to a snake because of the metal wire inner it is inherently stiffer than a plastic snake & therefore needs less support.....fixing at the start & finish points should be enough. With both these methods however you will probably need a section of sheeted balsa near the tail through which to exit.....some mild surgery might be needed here to remove the covering at this point I'm afraid.... Hope that helps..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 thank you both Steve and Eifion for the comments i should have put a little more info. Steve the good news is this i anticipated this problem in advance so i still haven't covered the bottom section of plane .. i have also done what you have said about the glueing in 4 places with a little tape round so can remove them.., the issue i have is just on the point exiting the model at rear there isn't sufficient movement from the snake being pushed .. there isn't any bending inside a little from the inner on exit.. also the rudder moves free as a bird when not connected.. .... its just that the push rod sits to close to the model on exit and its not got sufficient movement with out hitting the side of the fuselage so it stops short.. of a full movement. its ok in pulling the rudder back but not pushing.. i hope that this is a little more help will look at what you have put and see what i can change from what you have both put Thanks and regards Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Might a closed loop (pull-pull) set up on both rudder & elevator do the job? The wires would take up very little room....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 sounds ike good idea there steve will have a little look and see if i can make the changes .. have done a little work on it today got some more movement just by taking the exit covers off odd i know but its worked a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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