The finer points of two stroke tuning

[flytilbroke]

When I mentioned a glow clip I should have explained I meant an extension Glow clip similar to the self contained battery type. The type one would use with a Power Panel but fitted with a battery. The wire should be long enough to allow the Battery to drape behind the model wing. Side mount or inverted it just falls off safely if it does not "lock".

 

Ps, don't play cricket for a while

[Bob Moore]

Hi Flytill broke, that's exactly the way I use mine in the field (with the wing on) because, if anything, it keeps a bit of tension on the thing and would prevent it falling forward into prop. Sadly I was running this without wing as I was just tuning the engine. The wire and battery were draped behind, but not as well as when I have the wing on?

 

Someone mentioned moving the hand in an exagerated arch when moving it to work at the rear of the engine. I also do this, believe it or not. Or physically move to rear and approach it from there. This was a stupid reflex grab and partly because I wasn't totally awake (early in the morning for me) and not being sharp.

[Myron Beaumont]

Bob

Typical muso ! Lack of beer Eh?

[Bob Moore]

You may have hit the nail on the head Myron! Always have a couple of cans of Special Brew before tuning two stroke model engines! I'll write it into my risk assessment and safe working practices notes

[Bill R]

Hi Bob,

Hope the thumb is ok and no lasting damage.

I use Irvine engines exclusively, mainly 46 and 53's.

I use a battery type glow clip on the vertical ones and a battery panel type [same as the battery type but without the battery for upside down and side engine mountings. The fuel I use is Irvine Contest 10 as recommended and never had any bother at all. All my engines are still running with the original factory low needle settings. I set up the high needle for maximum speed horizontally, then richen 2 clicks. I then hold the model vertically for 10 - 15 seconds at full chat. If the speed falters I richen 1 or 2 clicks to maintain the speed. Pull back to idle then steadily back to full chat still holding vertical position. It should pick up without hesitation. I also use the long reach OS 3A plug or the equivalent Model power ones. [F6 I think]. I mark the needle position with a bit of liquid paper. Once I have these settings I have only weakened the top needle a little for the winter [1 click] to run a little hotter. Keep the fuel in the car or wrapped up from the winter wind as the cold can affect the mixture.

With the Contest 10, the oil residue stays red if the mixture is ok but changes to brown if it is a bit weak. This is actually ok as the tiny bit of castor gives a better lubrication when hotter.

 

Best regards,

 

Bill R.

P.S. The guarantee is sound if you use the Model Technics Irvine Contest 10.

 

[Bob Moore]

Thanks Bill, very very useful info. I'm looking forward to being able to get back at it when my thumb is fit. I think I pretty much had it right before 'the incident'.

 

I had my first outpatient visit today. Very painful when the nurse removed the dressing and it's looking ugly but healthy. And at my suggestion it was dressed with a splint inside the dressing to stop my flexing the thumb joint, as it was moving the pin they have inserted, so should be less achey. I think it will be a while before it's in good shape!