fitting 4mm connectors

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being a novice with electric I am trying to get my first set up sorted out.

My ESC has pre fitted 2mm cage connectors. I've bought some extra ones for the battery and the motor but worry they look too fine and are also very narrow for the wire I am intending soldeing them to. Ive also bought some 4mm connectors which Im a bit happier with. Is it an option to solder the 4mm commentors direct to the 2mm ones or should I simply strip the 2mm ones off and solder direct onto the fresh wire.

Also a little advice about the best way to solder the wire onto the connector would be useful as would some clear direction about what type of heat is best to fit the heat shrink tubing - hair dryer or iron ? 

[scott cuppello]

I always use 4mm myself on Lipo's, and 3.5mm on ESC's/motor's,but don't solder the connectors together, start afresh. The main thing about soldering connectors is to always "tin" the wires, you can't believe how much glitching a dry joint can cause, possibly even a total failure....not good! Heat shrink wise, I use a soldering torch, but obviously never a direct flame......but I don't really suppose it matters much how you do it, providing it does it's job!

[Tim Mackey]

Firstly, if the motor as supplied has 2mm gold, then presumably the manufacturers specification of the motor must be such that the maximum current input to the motor is within the tolerance of 2mm gold connectors ( around 20 A as a norm )

Therefore, assuming your powertrain INCLUDING the correct propellor size is properly matched to the motor ( and if it isn't you are in trouble ) then the maximum current flowing through these components ( ESC and BATTERY ) should also be under the motor maximum, and therefore 2mm should suffice.

Having said that, IF you feel you MUST use 4mm, then do NOT solder the 2mm plugs to the 4mm - do the job properly and remove the 2mm. Strip back a short section of the outer insulation, twist the stranded wire firmly, then tin the end with a HOT and LARGE TIPPED soldering iron

( I suggest 50 WATT....but the size of the bit is more important really)

Most of the decent gold caged connectors have a "solder bucket" type fitting for the wire connection, and I actually DONT tin these first, preferring instead to inseret the tinned wire neatly into the bucket / hole end of the plug, ensuring they are held rigidly together ( try "helping hands" or make up a little gizmo like I use

( picture here ) PS click the thumbnail for BIG picture

Should be clear from the picture how it "works" - the wooden pegs hold the wire and plugs firmly enough, yet don't conduct the heat away which would create a poor joint.

Apply the iron to the bucket, and then feed in the solder to the joint, ensuring the whole lot is nicely filled with solder, and remains bright and shiny after cooling. I then usually dremel off any excess, leaving the whole job nice and cylindrical and smooth, ensuring the heatshrink is not punctured by spiky bits of excess solder as it shrinks.

I use a heat gun ( paint stripper style actually from Aldi...think it was about a fiver )

and the heatshrink assumes its shrunken state without a fight hair dryer is fine, and any hot air gun will be better than an iron for this stage of the job.

[David Ashby - Moderator]

I use 4mm on everything just to make life simple.

[Tim Mackey]

what - even shockies !

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Don't own one, never have.......not a great depron fan

[Tim Mackey]

Nor me....but if I did, I wouldnt use 4mm connectors

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Thanks for the advice guys. Really helpful.

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