Dean Ferguson Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Hi al I am about to embark on building my first box of wood, this is all very new to me so any advice would be greatfully recieved. A friend of mine suggested before assembling the L/E and T/E and wing tips, cramping the wings together first gluing of course so as to get a nice tight joint. Them assemble the wings?. Is this a good or bad idea. Cheers Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Hi Dean, It doesn't really make much difference. Glue the wings with 30min epoxy, that way you have time to adjust and fettle the joint to make sure its dead straight. I'm not sure how you would go about clamping it? Usually I just use some masking tape pieces at right angles across the joint, triple check everything is straight and then leave 24 hours. You can fit the LE and TE before or after doing this. Once you have the wing joined and the TE and LE in place you add the fibreglass bandage. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Hi Dean, If you have slightly limited workspace - as I do - you might find it easier to add the L.E, T.E (excluding the central section part) & wingtips before joining the wings. Add the central TE section after joining for best alignment. The LE & TE need to be planed & sanded to section & this is easier with seperate wing halves held in their foam packing pieces for protection against knocks & dings. An assembled wing can be a bit cumbersome in the workshop & is quite easily knocked. (In my hands anyway!) If you have any slight gaps in the wing joint after it has set just rub in a bit more epoxy. If you use polyester resin with the fibreglass bandage make sure there's no exposed foam or it will melt. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Ferguson Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 Hi Richard Is there any preference on adhesives required for this Wot4, I have 20min Epoxy and Three Minuit, also some liquid wood and polerstirene glues that i bought at a fair last year, a sanding block and plane are something I need. Could you advise on anything else ??. Cheers Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r6dan Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Pins, little plastic clamps( the pound shop) exacto knife, razer saw, a couple of squares,cutting mat, selection of small drill bits, light battery drill or hand drill, cutting mat, masking tape, cyno, pva, steel rule. Beer and sticky buns, must not forget those... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Ferguson Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 The Beer and the sticky buns sound great!!, probably wont get the plane built though!!. Could you enplane what cyno is? sorry to plead ignorant just got in to this building lark, been flying two trainers that where already built and set up so sort of in the dark!. Cheers Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Cyanoacrolate - or super glue, often abbreviated to just CA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cantwell Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 cyno is super glue, the standard stuff will melt your foam wing--be carefull, you can buy foam safe cyno, aliphatic resin is my glue of choice for gluing wood t foa,, leading and trailing egdes, etc, glue on your wood, and keep it there while set with long strips of masking tape, when glassing the centre section, do not let the bandage go out side the fuselage, this will create a weak spot, you will also want to lighlty sand th glss down, place masking tape--2inch wide against the glass weave, this will save you sanding the wing veneer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Id also strongly recommend aliphatic or PVA for all wood to wood joints and for glueing the LE & TE to the wing panels. The joints need to be well fitted - they won't fill gaps - but a good joint will be very strong. Excess dried aliphatic (& to a lesser extent PVA) is much easier to sand away than CA. CA can be very useful for 'tack' gluing - holding things in place while the main glue dries. When you remove those strips of masking tape holding the LE & TE be careful as the veneer is easily damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Ferguson Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 Hi all Still trying to find a dry quit place to start on my wot4 and the time, how long do you think it will take on average to complete?. And what would be the ideal sizes tank for an Irvine 53 which is what is going to power it?. Thanks Edited By Dean Ferguson on 21/03/2011 23:18:38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 How long will it take? Well how long is a piece of string? (twice the distance from the middle to the end is the answer!) Honestly it depends on how much time you put in. A WOT4 could be built by an experienced modeller doing nothing else in 2-3 days. It might take a beginner, with very limited time, 2-3 months! SLEC tanks are good - they are colour coded for size - the "yellow" one is perfect for the Irvine at 9oz. But if you want something a bit smaller then the "red" one at 6oz would do. Just google "slec tank" and you'll be off. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Ferguson Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Hi can anybody help?, I have just gt to building the fuserlage section on my Wot4 Mk3 classic and the section where its sais the Engine mount and bulkhead come in two sections and this must be glued together it doesnt explain it very well, I am not sure what I am to do. Thanks Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Dean I think I recall that the bulkhead is now a single piece of 1/8" ply (not lite ply) but the instructions have not been updated to reflect this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Ferguson Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Hi The Instruction refer to Part no 4, 12, and 13. Then it sais to glu these together before you proceed to assemble the sides and doublers extra. Its a little confusing. Cheers Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Hi Dean, I can't trust my memory on this. I'll take a look at the instructions tonight, refresh the old grey stuff & post again later. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 I think the firewall used to be separate pieces you glued together - a big chunk of balsa with a ply doubler. But in the later kits, if I remember correctly, they replaced it with just one thicker lite-ply piece. If your still not sure photopraph the bits you have and put them up here and we'll try to help - but we're all going from memory of WOTTYS built long ago! Alternatively email Chris Foss - his address in on his website and he is a very approachable chap. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Hi Dean, Yes, the instructions do say to glue together the two halves of 1/16" ply parts 4,12 & 13. Look at 'Revised Parts' near the bottom of page 2 - they are now single pieces of 1/8" ply so ignore the instruction to glue the halves together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MARTIN Mickleburgh Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Hi, I'm building a Wot4 right now - just finished the fuselage and about to tackle the wings. I want to mount separate aileron servos. Any suggestions as how best to a) make the holes for the servos and b) drill a hole through the wing for the servo lead? All help much appreciated Martin BTW, re the firewall - I doubled mine up with an extra piece of 1/8 ply. One piece just didn't seem chunky enough to me - the Flair Kite I built to learn on had 1/4 ply and withstood at least two vertical nosedives into the stuffed clouds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Martin, The latest Wot4 kits have these servo holes & channels already cut out so you're a bit unlucky to have an older kit! Mark out the servo aperture, big enough to take your servo plus a lining of 1/16" balsa. Cut through the veneer & foam with a very sharp knife & then gouge out or use a hot blade to remove any more foam at the bottom of the hole as necessary.Line the hole with 1/16" balsa. For the extension lead channel you could try a sharpened brass tube or hot screwdriver to push through the foam or alternatively cut a narrow channel through the veneer & foam on the underside, fit the servo extension lead & then fill the channel back in with strip balsa, sanded to blend in. I've used this method before & it is easy & works very well. Richard Edited By Richard Wood on 07/04/2011 14:59:32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MARTIN Mickleburgh Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Richard, Many thanks for that - just had a look at Andrew Jarvis' Wot4 album and you can see the (very neatly) precut servo holes. I've set about the first wing (with much trepidation - don't mind building stuff but hacking holes in thigs doesn't feel right!) and all's going well so far. Need to acquire some hardwood for the servo bearers and finish off. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Ferguson Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 Hi I am Back Getting on well with my Wot4 Classic, fuserlage almost complete and wings almost ready to cover, but I am not too confidant that I have the experience to cover nicely. Any good sound advice would be really helpful. I have been advice by mates that have built many times before to use solar film??. This is the cheapest way. Then others have told me to use du-bro hinges on the aileron ruder and elevator to give good strength, is this. Cheers Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Dean, Solarfilm is one of the cheapest films & is reasonably easy to use if you have the iron temp correct - that's critical. Profilm/Oracover can be easier to use as it seems to be less critical of iron temp during application but is much dearer. There is also Toughlon (Servoshop) & some film sold by Giantcod but I haven't personally tried those. Here's a recent thread on covering Solarfilm Use the sheet/solid covering technique on Wot4 veneered foam wings - not the method used on the built-up wings. Any Q's just ask. Epoxied mylar hinges pinned with cocktail sticks are usually strong enough. Cheers Edited By Richard Wood on 13/04/2011 08:15:24Edited By Richard Wood on 13/04/2011 08:19:13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 This was my first attenpt at covering. I used solar film and it turned out quite well. It is easy to get a good finish but takes practice to get a really good (artf standard) finish. My advice is just give it a go. If you do make a mess of it just peel it off and have another go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Ferguson Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 Hi guys I am back with another question, I am almost ready for my maiden flight with my new what 4 Mk3 Classic but have had a little trouble with the rudder control wire don't like it much any suggestions. Also C of G is needed and because of the angle of my Irvine 53 needs balancing, what is the best thing to do with this please. Thanks Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpreou Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Posted by Alan Cantwell on 16/03/2011 23:41:28: ... when glassing the centre section, do not let the bandage go out side the fuselage, this will create a weak spot... Hi Alan, can you elaborate on this? Been a long time since I did a trad build, but I always ran the cloth outside the fuse. I didn't have any reason other than having the fuse/wing seat on the 'tougher' glassed area rather than the foam/veneer part of the wing. Would welcome re-education if there is good reasoning behind it Cheers. JEFF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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