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Power systems dilemma


NigelH
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I’m looking for power options for two different models

69” with an E-Flite Power 46, a 60 amp ESC (unknown BEC rating - disconnected), four DS821 digital servos and an AR6200

82” with two E-Flite Power 25s, six JR NES591s, two HS 85MG servos and an AR7000, which still needs two 60 amp ESCs

I’ve looked at the Eneloops but they seem complicated (false peaks, over-charging and maybe even memory issues).
The other consideration would be UBECs but it seems to me that it wouldn’t be sensible to risk very expensive 6.5lb or 12lb models to a budget £10 import. Things are complicated further having read only today that the JR servos don’t seem to like 6 volts.
Informed advice required thanks.
 
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The simplicity of a standard 4- or 5-cell NiMh receiver battery is attractive to some. I haven't heard of any problems with Eneloops (maybe I haven't searched enough, because I don't use them), but my standard Sanyo packs, as supplied by Ripmax and others with their radios, have never let me down.
 
My models (5lb to 12lb weight) all used opto ESCs and standard NiMh receiver packs when I was on 35MHz, to reduce the risk of interference. Since switching to 2.4GHz I've replace all the receiver packs with stand-alone BECs powered from the main flight batteries. I'm using a couple of the original UBECs, from USA, but more recently I've been using Hyperion Cool BECs. If you need more power, as might be the case with digital servos, Castle Creation's BECs seem to have a loyal following.
 
I think only you can decide whether the failure risk of a BEC exceeds that of an NiMh battery -- or even of the receiver itself. For me the big advantage of BECs is I don't have to decide which model's receiver pack to charge the night before -- my A123 power packs are always ready to go, so I can decide which model at the last minute.
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The risk of failure is the big consideration, along with cost.
 
I also don't like the idea of charging before I fly. I don't think that you can even top up the Eneloops anyway.
 
I meant to add that for the twin, HH told me that two E-Flite 60 amp Pros can be plugged in without the BECs being disabled to deliver more current for the radio. However, they're £70 each which I will not be spending. I wonder if other ESCs (e.g. Turnigy Plush 60 amps) can be connected that way.
 
I was looking at the CC 10 amp BEC and they had the comment about servo connectors being rated at 5 amps but how are you supposed to connect it to an RX ? I've read the article showing that the leads got hot at 10 amps.
 
There's something else I also meant to add but I've forgotten it again
 
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Im with Allan on the summary.
Personally, I have never had a UBEC fail, and I use a lot of them - almost all are "budget" units from either H King, or Giant Cod.
They are normally switchable between 5 or 6V output, and most are switch mode regulators these days, which are more efficient, and with 2.4Ghz gear, interference free.
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Posted by NigelH on 21/06/2011 12:09:35: ... I was looking at the CC 10 amp BEC and they had the comment about servo connectors being rated at 5 amps but how are you supposed to connect it to an RX ? I've read the article showing that the leads got hot at 10 amps. ...
 
 
I don't know what current digital servos need, but if the total consumption is more than the 5 amps that the receiver's circuit board can allegedly handle (don't quote me on that figure either), you can feed each servo direct from the BEC without going through the receiver.
 
The way to do it is to splice in another -ve wire to each servo lead, so that you have four leads coming from it. One -ve lead and the signal lead go to the appropriate receiver channel, and the other -ve lead and the +ve lead go to the BEC to get power. The BEC can also power the receiver, as usual, but by having no servo +ve wire going into the receiver, and having the servos tap directly into the BEC supply, the receiver circuit board won't have to carry the servo currents.
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  • 1 month later...
Thinking about the Twin Otter with six standard NES591s and two HS85MGs, one of these should be perfectly good enough ?
 
At what rate can you draw from them ?
 
Running two of them to two different RX sockets with Y-leads would also give me double the current output and also provide resilience.
 
The only other question would be whether the NES591s can run on 6 volts. I've read that this may not be possible. Anyone know ?
 
Thanks
 
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Tim, to use extremes to make my question clearer, we know that something could draw 100mA without, more than likely, affecting the battery voltage at all and we know that something trying to draw 100A (besides not getting very far ) would have a quite a big affect on battery voltage. So, is it clearer what I meant ?
 
Interestingly, I just went mad and looked in the instruction manual I'd not bothered with the IC option so didn't notice their recommended flight pack
 
They recommended these servos -

Spektrum A6000 Digital Servo (6) SPMSA6000

JR SPORT MC35 Micro Servo (4) JSP20030

with this -
 
 
It's not even a sub-C and a lot less capacity than I was thinking about. It is a 6 volt pack though. And that's with digital servos instead or standard ones.
 
I'm now feeling more comfortable about using the Overlander NiMH.
 
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I finally placed an order. I already have a new Overlander 4.8v 1600mAh Premium Sport NiMH so I've ordered another. That will give me 3200mAh when connected in parallel and when connected via two receiver ports, they will ease the load on the connections and give me a little resilience.
 
I can also install a volt spy and then switch on each pack in turn to get an idea of where I am with them.
 
I also intend to fit a TM1000 which should give me an overall voltage report and a low voltage alarm.
 

Edited By NigelH on 12/08/2011 13:04:41

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