NigelH

I've been fancying the Bix 3 but if you look at the reviews on the HK UK site, apparently, it has a few issues. Some look easier to fix than others. It seems that the tail servos are hard to get out but prone to stripping. Not a good mix. I decided against buying one when I read that.

You can get the Arduino Uno R3 ( or a clone ) from China via eBay for less than six quid. Same for an Ethernet shield. I've bought every sensor under the sun from eBay and most of them are like a couple of quid posted, You can get cheap LCD displays starting at a couple of quid and add an I2C to parallel adapter for a quid. You can then drive it using only two data lines. if you like what you have made, you can flash the software into a standalone chip which costs about three quid. You can get the TL866 programmer for about thirty quid that will program many different types of devices.

They call it Dollar Tree foam. It is the board that consists of two sheets of paper with foam in between. I've bought mine from The Range and Hobbycraft . it costs a lot more than a dollar though. I bought ten sheets recently for just over twenty quid but I think that was a clearance price. i would have thought that there would bee nought interest over here for someone to organise a bulk buy so that the customs and shipping costs can be shared. I've recently seen sons one from Scotland do a similar thing with some old GWS kits.

E-Flite Ultra Stick 25e E-Flite Beaver 25e with two more servos E-Flite Pulse XT 25e

I don't believe that anyone has suggested using the classic leaded solder. It can be bought from eBay sellers and melts more easily than the modern lead free stuff that you can now buy in the shops.

There's also an issue where tapping into the reply box when using Safari on iOS does not bring up the keyboard. Clearing the cache doesn't fix it but I noticed that tapping on the B, for example, brings up the keyboard. It worked fine before.

Check out the FliteTest Youtube channel. They've already made two great models from the movie, the crop duster and the BF109 type.

BTW, if you look up the Bixler and Bixler 2 on their site, you will see the reviews from people who have bought them. Also, there are two variations of the two variations They do them with and without motor, ESCs and servos.

Bixler, the AXN Cloud, etc would be great.

Wot 4. Oh, hang on

I've got mine on order but not sure why those rear controls are significant. Others obviously like them. What's the big deal ?

I think that it's probably fair to say that if it was a Spektrum radio, all it would have cost you regardless of age would have been £11 to send it to HH. You can't get better than that for service and this should be considered when buying new kit.

It's the same guy. As I mentioned above, there was an apparent typo in his name and it was the extra 'n' that I was referring to.

Yes, also he signs off as Nathan but that's not in his e-mail address.

I did and there is no match for it. However, there does appear to be a typo in it - an extra 'n' IIRC.

Hi Just got this e-mail for two different items that I have listed on only this site's classifieds - Hello, I will like to make inquires if your items above is still available for sale, get back at me with the details of the items; Your reason of selling it? Last selling price? If it has been involved in any accident? The present condition of the items? The method of payment is inform of Certified Bank Check/Draft. I will be expecting your reply. Thanks, Nathan [email protected] +44xxxxxxxx Can't be 100% sure (so I've deleted the contact details) but this looks like a scammer. Who else has got this e-mail from him ? Quite a few, I expect.

Fantastic video. Great model. Not sure that it's worth ~£200 just for the kit though. Will be watching the thread.

Fuel tubing is also good for slotting over the aerials. Get the correct bore and not only will it fit perfectly over the Spektrum plastic mouldings, it will protect them and keep them at the correct angles.

The aerial in the RX will be most effective when it is at a specific orientation relative to the TX aerial(s). By having one or more satellite RXs, orientated differently from each other, there should always be at least one RX getting a solid signal from the TX. Also, things such as batteries and engines along with CF can cause signal loss so it's useful to have the extra RXs in place. There are plenty of full range RXs without satellites so as long as a range check works, you should be good.

Absolutely don't cut it in half. You'll never get the spar out and the wing will be useless. Fill the gap good and proper with thin 30 minute epoxy. Be sure that it has run all the way into the gap. As it happens, I built the mark 1 version and followed their instructions, using the 5 or 10 minute epoxy that there suggested. Poor advice as the beginner modeller doesn't realise that they have no time at all before the glue gets stiff and resists movement. I ended up with a 1mm or so gap but I just filled mine in.

Recent uses for me trimming landing gear struts trimming servo mounting lugs Shortening motor shafts and cleaning up the threaded end afterwards

How much ? Note the seller's name

BMFA Classifieds

Look here and here for the correct info.

If the E-Flite 10-15s in the PZ P-47 are anything to go by, you may well have room to adjust the retracts before you tighten the screws. The holes in your retracts may also be generous.