Choosing a bandsaw

[Vic8]

I have read previous threads on this subject and would like further advice.

 

I have two wood cutting machines, a Perform bandsaw from Axminster and an Axminster fret saw. Both machines are substantial, made from steel with cast iron tables and live in the shed. In addition to the shed I am lucky to have a spare room that I now use to build my models. To save trips out through the backyard and into the shed to use the bandsaw I would very much like a small table top bandsaw that I can use indoors and store under the table, bringing it out when needed. From the previous threads I understand that some members have reservations about bandsaws, I know that bandsaws do not take prisoner , only fingers, my instructor always said "keep a hands width between you and the blade, this makes for an interesting selection of "push stick" when working on small pieces. I am impressed with the Proxxon Micro Bandsaw and although it has a 6 inch throat depth I think it will be sufficient. The Proxxon is compact but it is an expensive lump of kit and perhaps someone can suggest an alternative. I have a Proxxon bench drill which sleeps under the same table to save those trips out into the dark to use the pillar drill.

Thanks.

[Andy Brough]

Hi Vic, I did lash out on a Proxxon Band saw and it is superb. It cuts everything from thin steel, 10mm bolts, ply, 60 mm hard sycamore, brass and plastics! It's also light for under bench storage. I know it's dear but worth every penny and the blades are excellent albeit also expensive. However I did sell a Record 350 band saw beforehand as it was rather too large! I don't like scroll saws, band saws are far better. The downside is that it doesn't have a fence so I share the one off the Proxxon table saw, even more expensive, but is the best small saw in the world. if I had to buy another make then Record are probably the best. Both the saws I bought were done so with substantial discount by buying ex demo models at the end of a show......it is a pleasure to use good tools. Do not buy any of the offerings from DIY sheds as they are crap and don't ask how I know! Cheers.

Edited By Andy Brough on 10/01/2012 22:22:25

Edited By Andy Brough on 10/01/2012 22:22:46

[Andy Brough]

As an after thought, I use a Mini Craft jig saw fastened to a block of wood which is then clamped in a vice. I use this to cut out the centre of formers instead of a scroll saw. A better quality one like the Proxxon would be even better and could be used in place of the band saw and vastly cheaper. I stuck a larger ply plate on the sole to provide a table for longer pieces. I stuck it with double sided tape and it has never moved. The wood is like a clamp around the round body of the saw a split hole which is tightened up to hold the motor. Works just fine and I picked up the saw for very little at a club auction. Could be a cheap and small option.

[J.N.]

Posted by Andy Brough on 10/01/2012 22:21:01:
Hi Vic, I did lash out on a Proxxon Band saw and it is superb. It cuts everything from thin steel, 10mm bolts, ply, 60 mm hard sycamore, brass and plastics! It's also light for under bench storage. I know it's dear but worth every penny and the blades are excellent albeit also expensive. However I did sell a Record 350 band saw beforehand as it was rather too large! I don't like scroll saws, band saws are far better. The downside is that it doesn't have a fence so I share the one off the Proxxon table saw, even more expensive, but is the best small saw in the world. if I had to buy another make then Record are probably the best. Both the saws I bought were done so with substantial discount by buying ex demo models at the end of a show......it is a pleasure to use good tools. Do not buy any of the offerings from DIY sheds as they are crap and don't ask how I know! Cheers.

Edited By Andy Brough on 10/01/2012 22:22:25

Edited By Andy Brough on 10/01/2012 22:22:46

 

Thanks, I did notice the lack of fence on the Proxxon and thought that an after market add on was readily available however your comments have fore warned me to look into the matter before parting with any money.

 

Regarding Scroll/Fretsaw, I must admit that it is sometimes a bit fiddly to lock the blade into the arms after feeding it through the hole in the centre of a former but it is something I have got used to. The Axminster one I have is heavy and solid with a substantial iron table and is capable of cutting anything that I would want to cut on a mini bandsaw, however. I have found that with care, I can cut accurately to the line on a bandsaw leaving very little final sanding to do and still have my fingers. Cutting curves and the like is fine on the Fretsaw but on long (ish) straight bits the narrow, thin blade does not help to keep the cutting line square.

[Andy Brough]

Most band saw blades will develop a set so the trick is to use a single point fence which is a rounded bit of wood clamped to the correct width. The wood is fed through at an angle according to the set. Some bandsaws such as Jet actually come with a round bar set into the fence for such a purpose. I'll take a pic of the jig saw set up which really does work and is small and cheap.

[Anthony Billings]

Hi,

just read this thread, and J.N. comment about cutting long straight lines with a scroll saw/fret saw, the trick with these saws is to push the wood through at a slight angle don't laugh, it's true, I have a large woodworking workshop and have been making toy's, furniture and turning bowls for longer than I care to remember, and I too had difficulty with getting straight cuts with a scroll saw til I found a very old book on making toys with a scroll saw and this tip was mentioned, I tried it and after some practise, it works.

With a bandsaw, it's the depth of the blade ie front to back that is important, if you want to cut straight then fit a blade with the greatest depth you can fit on your machine, if you want circle or tight curves then you need a blade with a narrow depth.