Mark Powell 2 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Nickaliath, It's a bit ambitious for a first build, but with care you won't have any problems. The most difficult bit, I found, was to carve the wing tips to the right shape without getting the trailing edge all droopy. Also the split flaps are quite a challenge. Above all keep the weight down, particularly at the tail, or you will end up with LOTS of noseweight. A start is to cut away as much as you can of the flat tailplane centre sheet when you have covered one side with the 1/16 sheet but not the other. Go through the covering sheets and find the lightest for covering the tailplane and fin. Be VERY careful with the wing washout jigs, to make sure you have enogh washout and it is the same both sides. The fulelage is easy, but there is not a straight line on the wings anywhere, even the root to tip taper is curved. I had to steam the rather oversize main spars to get them to fit without building in stresses PS. You look to be doing fine. For your next challenge, which will really test your skills, try the RBC kit (from Puffin Models) of the EDF Grumman Panther. Don't believe their weight claim either! Edited By Mark Powell 2 on 05/08/2012 15:41:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 Ive been trying to save a bit of weight where i can, Although as its my first build im being a bit cautious with what i remove. The build seems to be going well although ive had a couple of mishaps with heavy hands breaking bits! LOL. Although i have fixed with no issues. Found my first issue with the build manual when fitting the wings to the centre section. The wing to centre braces should be fitted before the top sheeting is done on the centre section, It can be done but i had to break a bit and refix it. Heres a couple of update pics (wing to centre section pics to follow): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Powell 2 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Engine. I used an OS 81 FSa four stroke. It fits in the cowl fairly well (My OS 91 four stroke was too tall and stuck out too much). The 81 flies mine pefectly well. I did pad out the supplied cowl with some soft balsa, glassed over, to increase the depth of the cowl near the front. No one would notice unless they had a real Spitfire to compare and it covers the head even better, though it is only 6mm thick. A suggestion. I fitted a sort of 'tall triangular' piece of 12 gauge piano wire with heavily bound/soldered on lugs to the front engine mounting bolts up to, and touching, via a leather pad, the top front of the rocker cover. It protects it in case of a noseover. Also I made a small 2mm ply box fitted on to the top of the plastic engine mount. to hold the 5-cell Eneloop batter pack I used. It just fits inside the cowl (only just) and reduces the need for noseweight. somewhat. When you come to joining the two halves of the plastic cowl try using Devcon Plastic Weld. It is rather expensive, about twice the price of a similarly sized epoxy pack, but it joins much better than the suggested CA. Also, being thick, like epoxy, you can use it to laminate some glass fibre on the inside of the join. Plastic Weld is a bit messy to use, but it works very well and fills the gaps in the join so can be sanded and the join vanishes. Don't use in on the wing fairings, it's too messy. Also try using 'Vinyl Bumper Filler' from your local auto shop to smooth in the wing fairings and other plastic bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Stig Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Watching this with great interest. hoping you see it through to the end! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 Mark - Funnily enough i have just been looking at the ASP .80 4 stroke engine. i pressume this would be a similar size to the OS. Im a bit unsure to the traingular part you described, not too sure what you mean??! With regards to the front cowling, i work in a Auto Body Repair shop so shouldnt be an issue. Do you have any pics of the triangular part and the battery mount? Edited By Nickaliath on 05/08/2012 19:16:38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I'm impressed! For your first build you are doing well, keep it up. Try not to break many more bits, repairs = weight. Saying that, I broke a former on my Domino today and had to repair it! I think Mark means a piece to go down, and underneath the top of the engine so in the case of a nose over on landing, it protects the engine. Keep up the good work! CS (Spitfire MK IXB, MH434 flying over Duxford. Possibly the most famous Spit still flying, alongside the 'Grace' Spitty- thought it might be good inspiration!) Edited By ConcordeSpeedbird on 05/08/2012 19:28:32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 I see, I take it it doesnt completely cover the engine as it would run very hot?! Im not normally too heavy handed, LOL. That Spitifre is very nice, That is the colour scheme im probably going to achieve on mine. It looks to be a satin finish on the paintwork????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 That Spitifre is very nice, That is the colour scheme im probably going to achieve on mine. It looks to be a satin finish on the paintwork????? Different Spits have different finishes, emblems etc. My advice would be to base your Spit on a specific airframe. PM sent. CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Powell 2 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Nickaliath - I don't have any pctures so I will try and explain. You are looking at the front of the engine, which is of course inverted. Imagine a V shape from the rocker cover up to the front holes in the mounting lugs of the engine. Bend a piece of piano wire to this shape and cut the ends off so with it held against the rocker cover, prodruding about 5mm, the ends finish about 10mm above the holes in the mounting lugs. Bind and solder on two pieces of 2mm thick brass or steel and bend them backwards at approx 90 degrees and drill suitable holes. Having mounted the engine, using long bolts at the front, put this V on and secure with a second nut each side. Remove it and adjust so it touches the rocker cover, epoxy on a bit of leather sandiched between the V and the rocker cover. Only glue the leather to the V, not the engine. Sewing the leather on might be better. Battery box. Cut two rectangles of 2mm ply (not liteply) slightly longer than the battery pack and about 40 mm wide. Drill two 2.5 mm holes in each, near one edge and towards the ends.. Hold them against the vertical sides of the plastic engine mount and mark where the holes are. Drill two smaller holes to match in the plastic engine mount (avoiding where the engine bolts will be), and screw these plates to the engine mount. Use proper self-tappers, not servo screws, as they will break. Cut another piece of ply so it is a good fit beteen the plates and epoxy it to the plates, leaving about a 4mm gap between it and the bottom of the engine crankcase. glue on a front and you now have a box with an open top and an open back. Put the battery pack in with a bit of foam . Mark the box sides and cut off the excess from the original 40mm. Secure the battery with a couple of tie wraps longitudinally, between the engine crankcase and the bottom of the box, around the front and back over to the back. Of course you will have to unscrew this box to gain acess to the engine bolts when you insert and replace the engine, but you won't do that often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 I have progressed further with the build Have started to fit the retracts and also i have skinned the bottom side of one wing. Couple of images attached, Showing a retract in situe and the skins made for the wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Nice, are they electric retracts? Very impressive! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Powell 2 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 You are doing very well. Don't forget to put the servo lead extensions in before you complete the wing sheeting! Put the aiteron ones in cutting a small hole in the spar web (NOT the thick spars themselves) so you can put the main length ahead of the spar and then lead them back again near the root. I didn't do that and they kept tangling with the undercarriage legs. Fixed it with a few unsightly lumps of scrap in the wheel bays. Also suggest doubling up the top skin above the wheel bays by putting some bits of sheet between the ribs from underneath. where the wheels are. Sometimes the wheels go up with a real bang and it will stop the axle from punching a hole through the top skin. Look out for this - keep the axle as short as possible.. Oh, looking more closely you have already done that. Carry on! PS: later on you can give the inside of the wheel bays a couple of coats of clear dope and then a light green coat. This will emulate the 'chromate' process that stopped corrosion on the real one. Optimistic - did they expect them to last long enough to go rusty? Edited By Mark Powell 2 on 18/08/2012 11:30:40 Edited By Mark Powell 2 on 18/08/2012 11:44:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 They are air retracts. I did see in the build manual it tells you to double up the skins, no havent done that yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hickson Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Looking good so far. Your making me want to jump in at the deep end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 I have started to skin the wings and have fitted the aileron servos/hatch's. The bottom skins still need trimming. I have also started to cut out the holes for the retracts, images to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hickson Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Would Proskin be an option rather than balsa sheeting for the wings, or is this only for bigger planes? I just wondered, sorry to hijack the thread. Oh, more piccys please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 Another couple of update photos. Managed to do most of the top part of the fuselage, Stuck on the upper covering tonight and did some basic shaping. Tomorrow i intend to start the bottom section of the fuselage, Photos to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 It looks like your Spitfire has sunk! Great job! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeS Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I have to say that I am impressed with your handy work on the those wing skin joins. Very good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Thanks. Its coming on pretty well really. I've had a couple of booboo's along the way but overall its gone well. Im going to try and get back on to the wing by the end of the week, I have already started to cut out the recess for the landing gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Can anyone recommend a suitable battery for the plane? Im a bit confuised as to what type and size to get for it. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garbo Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I am starting to change over to 6.6 volt LiFe batteries. A 2000ma is about the same weight as a old 500 NiCd They never loose their charge and can be charged in an hour. All good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Ok, I will take a look at them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 Couple of update photos. Managed to get most of the lower fuselage skins on just got some bits to do at back end. i have now also fitted the air tank and lines for the retracts. PRE LOWER SKIN PHOTO BELOW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickaliath Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Sorry havent posted for a while, been busy with other stuff recently. Has anyone ever fixed the wings to the fuselage on these models, Instead of being able to seperate them? Im thinking of doing this just a bit worried about getting to parts inside the panels. I have done a bit more since the last photos, I will try and post up more tomorow. Edited By Nickaliath on 03/11/2012 21:01:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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