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Scallop TE.


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I am after a kit for my second build and it looks like it will be another Flair kit.

The only problem i have is that the kits i like Fokkers,Attila and Mag have or can have scalloped TE. I have no idea how you accomplish this only having done straight Built up TE to date.Leaving the bottom TE strip as is and then chamfering top strip rear was easy to work out,not so with scallops!

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Don't glue the TE strips together at the TE edge initially - just to the ribs.

Make a card template & mark the scallops on the TE with a soft pencil.

(There should be a template drawn on the plan).

Cut out the scallops slightly undersize & then sand with sandpaper

wrapped around a jam jar, tin or similar to the marked lines.

When complete glue the TE's together carefully with thin cyano.

It's well worth doing.yes

 

sdc10358.jpg

 

Edited By Richard Wood on 17/07/2012 10:31:55

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Lovely build there Richard,would love to build that good.

Can i just ask,,,,with a straight TE like i have just done,the top or bottom TE strip gets chamfered at the rear so they sit together,what happens with the scallop,do you chamfer the curve area?

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lovely LOVELY neat scollops, but on the full size, the trailing edge was wire, the scollops where created by the covering bending the wire when doped, they were anything but neat, or even, its a bit like having invasion stripes nice and neat on a spitfire, when, in reality, they where put on with 2 log brushes, the night before D day!! but they do look nice on a model,

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Richard, I got the Magnatilla and was told the SC 52 4stroke would be ideal so i got that also.

To be honest i am a bit let down with the wood quality,much of the wood is badly warped.Found some build threads online and this is mentioned,wish i read them first.The posts said that the fuz parts turn out ok whem laminated but the wing ribs have caused many headaches,some even cutting new from balsa and ditching the lite-ply.My wing ribs could not be worse,ok the warp along the length might be aesy to remove but the warp on mine from flat bottom to top curve is mighty.I suppose if you were to use CA you could get the warp out bit by bit but i want to use aliphatic this time.

Why is lite-ply used any way? is it cost? or does it die cut better? i for one would sooner pay more for the kit with good parts.

Do not mean to bash Flair,the rest of the kit is great,just that lite-ply.I will not buy another Flair scout without looking in the box first.If lit-ply is present it will be shut and put back.

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Sorry to hear of your problems with Liteply Max - I also dislike the stuff & suspect

it's used to keep costs down. (Earlier Flair kits didn't use it).

You could try steaming out the warps with a kettle, but this is frankly a pain.

I seem to remember there's a note included in some Flair kits about dealing

with warped lite-ply - I'll see if I can dig it out this evening.

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