Blade 130 blades seem a bit loose to me

[Fingerless]

Can anyone tell me if the Blades are a bit loose on the
Blade, seems a bit loose to me. Any tips for DX8 settings
for this for would be good, something that might help me
fly it, when one day i will try it, sticking with Blade
MSRX and a Blade Nano first, thanks for reading this.

[Frank Skilbeck]

It flies just fine with the loose blades, and these also provide some damage limitation on a less than perfect arrival. Most of the issues with the 130x are to do with the drive to the tail and tail wagging issues as a result, flying mine off grass I managed to break some teeth off the main tail drive bevel gear which i've now replaced, but i'm still fine tuning the tail settings.

A couple of main points to note are

1) If you try and bring it off the ground slowly it will tip over, I think this is something to do with the AS3x system initialising itself, as if you land and then take off again it's not as pronounced. For the first lift off of the day it's bettter to be positive at getting into the air, once up it settles down and the AS3x system does it's stuff.

2) Make sure the big white gear isn't pushed hard up against the frame and this pinches the frame and puts more drag on the system and can cause some of the tail wag issues.

3) make sure you switch your Tx on first and leave it for a few seconds to acquire the free channels, if you don't the Rx on the 130x goes into bind mode, also to get mine to bind initially I had to hold my Dx6i attenna very close to the Rx.

I fly mine as per the manual settings (Dx6i) but on the reduced rates and the normal flight mode, not stunt, well not yet

I've not flown the MSRX or Nano as I bought this after a 300x (a bit intimidating indoors), the 130x is nice to fly and flies well indoors and out (if there is no more than a light breeze)

Biggest tip is, get some more batteries, note it uses a specific connector, but overlander and turnigy both do batteries specifically for the 130x, I got some turnigy 450 mah packs and they work well.

[Fingerless]

Many thanks for taking the time to reply must have taken you some time, i got the Heli to work ok was just testing to see if it worked, i must have the chocolate version as the rudder gear at the front has been stripped already, just a few spool ups only on the floor, no bumps or crashes, told Horizon about it but dont expect much help, never got any about there motors on the MSRX and Nano there both made from Butter

[Frank Skilbeck]

I broke my tail bevel gear also, but that was due to tail getting caught in grass. I fitted a standard spare and so far that has been OK. They do sell a metal replacement though......................

If you do decide to replace it then check the horizon video's on repairs, I didn't and ended up stripping it down more than I needed to.

Edited By Frank Skilbeck on 26/01/2013 08:55:11

[Dave Bran]

The 130x once set up is a pussycat in terms of handling and WAY easier than either a brushed MCPX or a Nano (I have all three). It also handles wind considerably better than a TRex 250 OR 450!! (I have flown it quite happily in above a genuine 10mph several times including loops, and no WAY would I even attempt that with a TRex 250 in the same conditions.

I have seen several 130x's where the tail drive shaft inside the boom has moved back through the tail gear until it has rubbed (grooved in two cases as it wasn't spotted quickly) the tail cross shaft.

The sad thing is the quality control on them is extremely poor and (from a base of experience of more than 15 of them) very few come out of the box made properly. I waited while people struggled for Batch 2 to arrive before buying, hoping they would sort it out, but it was no better.

Do a LOT of mechanical tuning inc throwing away new but poorly made parts and you'll get a superb little machine that punches well above its weight.

PS, just been flying the Nano outdoors in a gusty 0-5mph or so. It also handles "wind" pretty well!!

[Dave Bran]

PPS, in case anyone was wondering about badly made parts, for example, my one had considerable slop (measurable in degrees!!) between the tail drive cross shaft and the bearing inners, and a eccentrically assembled tail drive shaft/gears.

[simon burch]

I wouldn't run the tail blades that loose. Just nip them up till they can hold their own weight and not drop down. Personally I would do the same with the main blades as well.

A few people have put their tail failures down to running the tail blades too loose.

Great little heli, I'm really enjoying mine.

Simon

[Twister]

Recently aquired one as most of the guys at the indoor club has them,great fun but stripped the bevel tail gear front and replaced it with metal,then the rear tail bearings went along with the small plastic bevel gear so replaced them along with the large rear gear, then 2 flights later small one has gone again.

My question is has anyone tried the all metal rear gears?

Richard

[Dave Bran]

Posted by simon burch on 26/01/2013 09:58:15:

I wouldn't run the tail blades that loose. Just nip them up till they can hold their own weight and not drop down. Personally I would do the same with the main blades as well.

A few people have put their tail failures down to running the tail blades too loose.

Great little heli, I'm really enjoying mine.

Simon

While I agree they ones in the OP vid are/were too loose, with a 130x if you nip them up to the traditional level as you say the liklihood is that you will create the conditions to allow the achilles heel ills latent in many 130x's to emerge. In the last week alone I have loosened off blades on two differing 130x's, both of which flew much smoother as a result, instantly and significantly better.

Seems to me tail failures due to blades being held so they cannot reach a proper balance position is far more likely to be an issue than marginal looseness.