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a beginners P51


Steve B
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So then here i am... hello all and please please please chip in with views, opinions, advice etc etc. as it states in the title i'm a beginner at this building lark...needed a garage project an bought the top flight 1/7th Mustang !!

I 'think' its going ok so far.... taking my time an doing the research when i can. will post the photo's i have up to press going the whole hog with retracts front and back... done away with the aileron bell crank and doing the flaps too.

wing fairings took some figureing out but i think i've sussed it and they look ok to me face 1 been reading the other p51 threads and hope mine comes out half as good...will need someone to fly her then cos i've never tried ha ha ...just enjoying the build.... Anyway here's some pics:

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Would love to put a RCV unit in but will prob be petrol 15/20 cc (cost

Thats it for now.

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Hi steve, Ive just noticed your thread, I`m building the same model too, also with the rear robart retract. Where you`ve placed it on the former is a bit too high, if you look at your 6th picture, the top arm of the retract mechanism (where you connect a push rod etc to), is in the space where the elevator pushrod fits, as the elevator push rod is a solid metal rod you want to try and keep it as straight as possible, or it will bind along the outer grey tube. Ive closed the back end of mine up now or I`d take a picture to show.

Also in your 7th pic with it mounted, i put some lengths of triangle in the corners and a couple of ply rectangles width wise on the back of the former for a bit of re-inforcing, the former on its own wouldnt be strong enough to cope with the force of the retract mechanism operating and on the ground.

My retract is quite stiff from fully closed so I`ve used a little Air actuator for operating it from Giant shark, as I didnt want the added weight of a large servo towards the back, and it works well. I`m using pull pull for the steering, controlled from the rudder servo through a bellcrank arrangement with springs to keep the trace taughtish when retracted, and will fashion some operational gear doors from fibreglass when im at the finishing stage

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Hello John and thanks for the input (it really is welcome) I've been building 'blind' so to speak as a newbie. With regard to elevator rod I've got it running on rhs of fuse with a left turn to connect to elev horn bar .... It's running pretty smooth so I hope it doesn't cause issues.. The servo for the air retracts runs the rear retract rod too... I'll take some pictures to explain at some point this weekend. I puzzled over functioning rear doors all summer an finally twigged a solution so easy and light I had to slap myself ha ha.. Will post a vid if I can figure out how... Would love to see your belcrank rig...have you a thread? Thanks for reading and please continue with the hints and tips they truly great fully received.

Ps I did the triangle stock reinforcements as mentioned

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I havent bothered with a thread, I been off and on with it for about 2 years so It would be a very spaced out one if I did lol, I only do a bit here and there on it when i get chance, I havent got to the bellcrank yet, but at the back of the formers in the middle of the fuz behind where the air tank sits is a big empty space so it will be in there ( This is the general arrangement in post 2 but from the rudder servo not flaps 

Ive also found an easy ish way of getting the doors to work from a TF P-47 build Ive seen somewhere, direct from the mechanism to the doors using just micro control horns and little pushrods with ball connectors, it just needs all the geometry well testing out before its made permanent

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i tried to do a 'mech' way on the doors too...made little ball jointsan push rods but it is really hard to get the geom right as you say, found that it opened the doors fine but when it came to closing the doors shut trapping the wheel 'out' partially retracted rectified it by using the wheel itself to open the doors and a plastic spreader fastened to the leg to stop them closing... then when the wheel retracts the spreader drops in with the leg and a simple peice of elastic glued to the door inside pulls the doors shut behind the wheel...as i said really simple but completely effectice....not stand up to close 'scale' visual inspection but works well. Time will tell how robust it is.

i've made use of the space you describe by creating an extra servo tray to house the pull pull system...will just have to rig up the bell crank. next photo shows it:

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and some others i've found:

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