Redex Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 It does seem to be a small imbalance, so I am going to leave it and see how its madien flight and any trimming goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I had 5 of these loved them so much,the fifth one was made from parts from the other 4,still have bits around for them,took me a long way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Thats good to know, I'm also hoping to learn a lot from it and I see some spares are available too, although I have not checked out the number plate bolts as possible replacement for the wing/nose bolts yet. Had a couple of flying lessons with i.c at a local flying school, but my interest is electric, now need lots of practise so finding a club seems the obvious way to go. Been roughly following ther RCM&E 2008 article, but my JP 4220 motor needed a shaft reversal - not so bad as there was a 'How to' article in RCM&E, so just followed and it seems OK. Next up is a static test of the power train mounted in the model, I'm using 4S 3900 Overlander, EMAX 60a ESC and 12*6 APCE. The covering finish is not brilliant but I can live with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 The least of my problems was the covering it was the flying bit I was trying to get the hang of.I did have radio problems that accounted for 2 of my models.There was one occasion when it mysteriously disapeared behind some trees and I could hear the motor but no model I put the tranny on the ground thinking it had crashed but the motor was still able to run.As I started to walk towards the area it had "gone down" it popped back up into view so I rane back and picked up the controller to interfere with it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Wow - thats a lot of excitment for one flight, not sure I could handle that. I have a question about the nose wheel control. I have a steerable nose wheel controlled by the nose servo which is also connected using a Y lead with the Rudder sevo, plugged into the Rudder channel of the AR 6200 receiver. ( I have reversed the servo wires in nose servo and which seems to work) But is this the normal way to control nose wheel and Rudder, or is it more normal practice to perhaps use the Mix feature of the DX6i, e.g trying to mix channels together to produce the Rudder and nose wheel synchronisation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Not sure how you have reversed the servo by swapping wires around Normally, if a reversed direction is required, then a servo reverser is used ( not recommended for spektrum gear ) or, as you say, use a free mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Thanks for pointing me in the right direction of using the mix function. I'm still learning the basics of the TX so not really sure yet how to use/configure a Rudder/nose wheel mix. Hence the servo reversal procedure I followed from the web, which requires the back of the servo to be removed, the two motor wires to be reversed and the two outer pot wires to be reversed - requires some soldering, I now know that for Spektrum gear a mix is a better solution and keeps the servo warranty intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Scott Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Hi All Just started the hobby and have bought the E-Pioneer - just wondering what servos you guys use as most seem rather too big, also was considering using the new OS OMA-3825-750 (.30 Size)kV: 750 Watts: 590 Weight: 190g Brushless motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alwyn Gee Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Hi Terry I think I just used Savox mini servos, (cheep & cheerful), but I would suggest something a little stronger for the nose wheel steering as I stripped two and eventually just permenantly locked up the nose wheel. It didn't make any difference except for taxiing. Rudder control was plenty adequate for take off. I passed my bronze (south of the border read A) certificate on this model in a howling hooly hurricane. Alwyn Edited By Alwyn Gee on 27/02/2012 14:25:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Hi Terry, I used HS85s for the nose wheel steering and aileron control which fit without slot modification. For the rudder and elevator I used GWS Super Tec 'Park' servos which required some enlarging of the pre cut slots. For the motor I used the JP EnErG 4220, so I roughly followed the kit review for the E-Pioneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Not sure if this info is already posted elsewhere, but for those looking for wing bolt spares for the E-Pioneer I just got these from GC (Nylon Screws M6 x L20mm) which seem to be OK on my E-Pioneer. There is an associated product review on the GC website, which gives a bit more detail on the actual thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Just do like me and buy 5 and you finish up with loads of spare wing bolts,very useful when you move on also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Had a few flights now with the E-Pioneer, my instructor reckons its a 'good un' for an electric !! Getting about 7 mins flight time from the 4S3900 + a landing circuit in windy conditions and just warm to touch - seems just the job for a electric beginner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Just completed my first solo flight so progressing with the E-Pioneer - but some heavy landings and the grass strip have taken their toll on the nose wheel servo which has now given up, so converted to a fixed nose wheel using a cut down push rod and a couple of push rod connectors mounted either side of the firewall - seems to be OK on take-off. Has anybody changed the main landing legs for something more robust than the wire legs provided to prevent bending on landing - I guess more practise is the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Using the E-Pioneer I passed my 'A' test yesterday and what a relief, I'm getting to old for such tests. The nose wheel is still holding up although it has been straightened a few times now, but all in all a great electric trainer for those with no 'previous' !! My instructor has shown that it still has plenty of capability beyond 'A' and so I will continue to use for a while, although a low winger trainer now looks tempting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Anybody know if th E-Pio is capable of a controlled spin - as its my only flying model at present I am reluctant to have a go !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alwyn Gee Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 I never got to try mine as I Iost it in a mid air shortly after passing my brone certificate but given all its other excellent flying characteristics I would be amazed if it failed to recover from an induced spin from a reasonable altitude. I would almost expect it to right itself once the sticks are neutralised. I'm sure someone will be along shortly to confirm this. Alwyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Rae Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Hi, I am new to RC flying and have picked the E-Pioneer as my first build. the question I have is where have you all put the ESC, there is a lot of space but not all of it is easy to access. I think I need to keep the weight forward so am planning on using velcro and place the ESC on the roof of the battery compartment just behind the motor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. regards Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alwyn Gee Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Hi Ken As far as I remember I just velcroed mine to the side of the battery bay. I was only running it on 3 cell so loads of room. Alwyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Yes Im sure I did the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Hi Ken, I did the same as Alwyn & Stephen just velcro ESC to side of battery bay, I am using a 4s and there is still room. Also I have just switched from the standard kit wheels to 3 inch foam wheels, which seems to make take-off's a lot easier off the grass strip where I fly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Rae Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Hi Guys, Thanks for the advice, I think my problem is the ESC is too large (70 amp) so for now I have used Velcro on the top of the battery compartment and have extended the battery wires through into the cockpit area, this will allow the battery to be disconnected without having to turn the model over it can be done through the top hatch. I think I will take you up o the 3 inch wheels Redex as I am going to be trying to fly from a grass strip as well. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy48 Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Have you read the "Flying Start" series of articles in RCME? This details which servos and ESC and motor fit the model. Emax 3103 fit perfectly and are quite cheap. The ESC will fit in the bay under the battery and allows room for a safety plug to be fitted.The balance is almost exact with these components. It flies far better on a 4S, especially off grass strips. Edited By Martin Phillips on 03/03/2013 17:11:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob H Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Hi Folks, I have a Seagull E-Pioneer ready to go but.............With a 590 Watt motor, a 12 x 6 E prop amd a 80 Amp ESC I am only getting 240 Watts Max ! ( with a 3S 3000 m/a Lipo). This is only about 50 Watts per pound. I know its a trainer with plenty of waft..... but is the answer a 4s Lipo? or should one fly it as it is. Gratefful for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob H Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Would really appreciate help with this set-up for a Pioneer. I have used a Watt Meter, read most of the info for working all out and cannot understand why I get get these figures. If I go up to 4S lipos ( which I do not really want to as I have a few 3's at the moment ) it would probably not get me up about 500 Watts. Any ideas please ? A 12 x 6 prop is near enough to the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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