Sigh Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 I used aliphatic glue on all laminations and where plywood is at least one of the contacts. I used medium CA for mounting the ribs to the spars. the bottom spar wasn't very straight but I forced it in position with the pins. I hope it won't have a negative affect and it likes its new position. Edited By Sigh on 04/10/2013 16:44:46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 My Astro Hog had about 75mm dihederal. It looks and flies absolutely fine. I used mainly PVA for the wooden bits and Cyano for gluing the cap strips down. It's a lovely flying machine - you will enjoy it. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 I can't make the math now do you mean that it has the original dihedral or it has the original sig dihedral? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 The original dihederal on the 1958 plan had a total of (about) 9" dihederal. I reduced it to 3" total measured under one wing tip with the other panel flat on the board. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 So mine won't look odd. Left wing panel is also glued, the trailing edge bottop pieces are not glued yet. I have a question friends. I have futaba s3152 servos to install to my hog. But i don't want to cut into the root rib to install the servo. Hs82mg from hitec is what i am considering to install. I'll install two hs82 without cutting the root rib. Hs82 when compared with the s3152 is half the torque but since I'm going to install one for each aileron it may suffice. What do you think? Would it be ok to install hs82 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 I used an aileron servo in each wing, MG995 but I wouldn't recommend them - heavy and slow. The machine is not very fast flying, I would imagine any standard servo will suffice. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 Hs 82 is not a standard size servo. It is thinner than the standard size and half the torque. But twice the speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 here are the specs of these servos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 I use HS225's in each panel. No hatch I built them in to the wings. See my build for more details. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 Hs225 has higher torque rating. Basic physics and the equipment specs tells me two hs82 in the place of one 3152 is ok. I can test this with a setup if i can find the energy and time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 when I was searching the web for other astro hog builds, I came across this build where the builder used a four stroke engine. he had posted the following picture and as you will see there is either a pipe or a wire reaching the muffler output. I didn't understand why this was done. the blog was an old one and I didn't want to start the discussion again. do you guys know what is this and why this is there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I wonder if it might be from the crankcase breather nipple, with the outlet in the exhaust outlet it might produce a small vacuum, and take the oil away. A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 I was thinking I should be deciding my covering, I wish I could do what sig suggests but I won't be able to find it here. I have two options one is solarfilm and the other is oracover. I have used cheap stuff before but for this build I would like to use a better quality film. which one do you suggest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 I thought he is trying pressurize the tank but your theory makes more sense . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 That's a good idea. Could be, but would it be hot enough? A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Yesterday i was too tired and had only about 30 minutes. I installed 5mm balsa block to connect w1 to the first w2 to better fix the dihedral brace. This block will make a pocket at the position where the dihedral brace will be inserted. I need to produce a new dihedral brace out of 3mm plywood. I'll post a picture soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Posted by Sigh on 08/10/2013 16:47:07: I was thinking I should be deciding my covering, I wish I could do what sig suggests but I won't be able to find it here. I have two options one is solarfilm and the other is oracover. I have used cheap stuff before but for this build I would like to use a better quality film. which one do you suggest Oracover every time. Its stronger than Solarfilm and much more hardwearing and importantly seems (for me) to stick down better than Solarfilm. If you want an authentic feel you could try SolarTex though. I quite like that. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Oracover it is. Red white and black and white checkerboard. you know what; i started to have cold feet about my dihedral decision. Sig made it 12 degrees total. I made it 6 degrees total. I actually copied it from my electric low wing model. I need somebody to encourage this mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Hi Sigh If you read my build blog I used 3" dihedral total, and it flies a treat. I think this is the norm for 'Modern' versions Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Mine has the same dihedral as Andy's - 75mm total Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 75mm total means if i hold the right wing on the table the left wing will be 75 mm from the surface. Do i understand it correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 I'll go and check my total dihedral in inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 That's it exactly, Dihedral measured under the main spar of the last rib Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 I checked the dihedral it seemed nice to me. I don't have a photo of it because the root rib wasn't strong at that time so I needed to hold the wings together. BTW the root rib angles are a little different I hope you guys can suggest a way to fix that. This night I covered and planked the left wing. landing gear block caused some problems because I forgot and covered the wing top first. I beefed up the block as Andy suggested but it was hard because of the cover at the top. unfortunately I am not very happy with this job. I wish I had a spare wing. the tip also was not easy to glue because the manual instructs to glue after water is applied and after the other ribs are glued. I used PVA except the leading edge part to sand easier. but the tip is PVA it will be very hard to sand it. I am also posting the plane my daughter and I had built this evening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.