WolstonFlyer Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Can you glue the wires with a bit of Hot melt glue or UHU etc to the inside of the fuselage so they are clear of the motor casing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy G. Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 I cheated and built an additional ''Bulge'' under the nose in which to route the wires and also to increase cooling. I didn't slim my nose down as much as the plan indicates either as it seemed like it would have got too fragile.. AND IT'S STILL TIGHT>> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Don't think hot glue will help, well I can't see how,,as the wires are are obviously being compressed onto the inner nose balsa, by the motor body as I tighten the four fixing screws. So I reckon that there would be even less room with a dob of glue in there. Purely by chance the wires already exit the motor in a corner of the area, where there is , I guess, already the most space. So I reckon I'm in a good bit of bother here. I might just have to pull it apart and build a " bulge " as the fixing holes are at present this would not be on a flat surface but on a corner. So the mounting plate has to come off, a new one made to align the wires, say in the middle of the bottom face. Andy, I would be interested to see I photo of your bulge, if you will pardon the expression!!! I think I might get into boats! Have fun.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy G. Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Hi Glyn....... Sadly I never took any close up pics of the nose when I built it, and now sadly it's too late ( for the original bulge anyway) as it was damaged in the crash. The rebuild will be done in a broadly similar way though. Basically I cut an oval opening in the bottom sheet of the nose motor bay then using 1/4 sheet I built an air scoop shaped 'bulge' over the opening with an open front end which also allows cooling flow in whilst letting the cables position inside it out of harm's way. I'll be the first to admit that it spoils the clean looks but, like you, I could just not get the wiring clear of the case. I did drill my motor mounting holes in the firewall to ensure that the wires were exiting at the bottom and would therefore slip nicely into my bulge. Maybe we have used a larger diameter motor that other people, as they seem to fit it in o.k. I'm currently rebuilding the replacement front sheeting/bulge, If you want a pic of that I could do one tommorow?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Hi, Glyn, sounds to me that you have the wrong motor in, I put a brushless one where the wires come out at the back cut a slot in the top of the fire wall and the wires can go straight to the ESC and battery. just where do your wires come from? at the front of the motor. I have flown mine now for a lot of times and in a 15/18 MPH wind no problems, also I have been up to ,1,470. feet, probably where I fly it is only about 700 ft. above sea level. good luck with the wires. all the best Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy G. Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Michael, you must have added an additional firewall then, as the plan shows the brushless motor mounted to the nose former thus the wiring will be at the front and need to pass the motor casing. This is often a problem with style of model especially when the nose is quite slender. ( unless of course you used an inrunner ?? ). 😆 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Thanks guys, I don't think I have used a wrong motor, here are some pics of it: As you can see its from Overlander, type T2826/18, and yes it sits behind the firewall as per drawing. As you can also see I do not really have room to drill different positioning holes in the mount. I only want to remove this as a last resort. (Sorry it's inverted) Any way I'll mess about a bit, but the air scoop sounds good, thanks Andy. Pretty sure I will think long and hard before I build another with the motor in this rear position! Also, just for info, my model is tail heavy without any weight adjustment. I'll let u know what my outcome is. As always many thanks, Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy G. Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Apart from the colour, that looks just like my motor! P.s .. Mine was tail heavy too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Hi Andy & Glyn, yes I did use the same type of motor, but as far I can remember I offered it up before I fixed the fire wall, that way I could determine just where the fire wall should go, by doing this the motor wires are coming from the back of the motor not the front, the cross fixing piece is then at the back, the prop driver is at the front. it seems to me you have the motor the wrong way round. I do hope that this explains what I did to get the wires at the back, then no props with them. No inrunner do not like them so do not use them, brushless for me every time. all the best Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy G. Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Posted by Michael Adams 3 on 01/07/2015 20:32:06: Hi Andy & Glyn, yes I did use the same type of motor, but as far I can remember I offered it up before I fixed the fire wall, that way I could determine just where the fire wall should go, by doing this the motor wires are coming from the back of the motor not the front, the cross fixing piece is then at the back, the prop driver is at the front. it seems to me you have the motor the wrong way round. I do hope that this explains what I did to get the wires at the back, then no props with them. No inrunner do not like them so do not use them, brushless for me every time. all the best Mike. Mike, you've confused me now, I can't see how you can mount the motor to forward firewall and have the wires at the back? Also, the X mount isn't used, the mounting screws just go thru the firewall direct into the front of motor. Seems to me that you must have added an extra firewall behind the motor, your comment about determining where it goes seems to confirm that. The firewall we have mounted on is the very FRONT NOSE FORMER. BTW an inrunner is a brushless motor, just constructed diferently, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Hi Andy, what you should have done was forget the front fire wall, offer the motor to where the fire wall is leaving enough space for the prop driver then mark where the x mount would be with it fitted to the motor, that is where the fire wall is to be fixed, some where back by D, this is how you can have the wires at the back, then you can make a front piece leaving enough space between it and the prop. hope this explains it a bit better. I do not know if you can rearrange what you have done to get it the same as me, this is one plan where you have to make changes to suit the motor and how to fix it. All the best Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Hi again to all, It was quite a nice day yesterday so I thought time to get my Red Eagle into the air for the first time! I arrived at the club and OMG it was packed: Meant there was plenty of launch a is available! Anyway had two flights, bit of trimming, adjusting clevis's and all was well. I found that flying the thing felt a little odd, but I had never piloted a glider so probably it was normal. Only real problem was that after the second sorte I noticed that the ESC was very hot, in fact it had split the heatshrink around completely in two. So what should I do about it? I wondered if any of you have put in some cooling vents, if so a photo would be nice. I reckon that's the way forward and a greater value ESC (40A ?) anyway here I the best pic I could manage whilst flying. Cheers for now, Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Thorpe Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Well done with the first flight!! Fantastic stuff!! Looks great in the air! Ah I'm nearly finished it, just have to connect tail to fuselage and shape the nose. Had a funny one a few weeks ago.....testing the motor in the kitchen......at full power it detached itself from the fuselage and pulled firewall, battery, esc out and flew right across the room! Eh, it will have loads of power i think! I might be in trouble so as my ESC is only 25 Amp! D'oh. I'll try and fashion a vent into the nose. Maybe have a read of this thread, there's a picture of a vent built in to the nose.....they seem to recommend adding exit hole in the fuse for the air to flow properly. And using a plastic spoon to get the shape of the vent. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?s=354c2d7ba795fd98974733bd85b0b998&t=797518 Sure let us know how it goes and hope it's flying great! Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 hi all, sorry I have not been on, some serious problems, before I think I wrote to say how to over come this problem with the motor wires, if you had fixed a brushless motor with the wires coming from the back no problems, all it takes is to make and fix a new fire wall, with the x mount on the back of the motor, then fix motor to the new fire wall, making sure the distance from fire wall is correct to give the prop a bit of space from the nose, I have no probs with heat as I only run the motor to gain height, then switch off and glide, If I can get some photos of mine I will post them on here, all the best to all, happy landings. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deadman Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Hi. This may sound like a simple question, but what is supplied in the kit which links the two elevators? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Hi Paul, if I remember there should be a short piece of rod shaped like this. 1____1 or you have to shape it, when I had mine the two pieces of brass tube were missing for the wings rod. all the best, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Hi Allen, I reckon you really have to work out some cooling,,I've done so. I can now pick the old girl up after a sorte without asbestos gloves ! Also reckon it will work out cheaper in the long run. Looking forward to the photos Cheers, Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 hi, sorry but I do not seem to be able to send photo's, I just do not know how to, if any one can help I will be most thankful.. I have tried every thing I know but still can't do it. yours mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Naylar Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Look here Michael LINK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Naylar Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 After you have read that Michael, click on FORUM at the top of this page, scroll down to THE SITE PLATFORM and then click on 'Forum User Guides' - all should be revealed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 This is how I fixed my brushless motor. the wires are at the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Where the red band is that is the position of the fire wall. do away with the front one and just block it off, I do not have air ways as I only use the motor to get high up then switch off and glide, it looks tatty that's because of the many flights it has had, winter job recover, here's hoping you can understand what I have done, but make sure you glue the fire wall in well. All the best, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Hi pete, thanks for the info, it still took a bit of time but I have got there thanks again, mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Sorry I for got to mention the ESC is under the battery, I have made a cover for it with two screws. you can see where the wires are going, a piece of foam behind the battery and a piece in front to stop it bashing the bolts Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Sorry every one for not being on, Wife in hospital, so not much time. Has every one got their gliders flying yet?? I hope to soon, Did you understand how I placed my Brushless out runner in so as the wires came through the back. sorry the pics were not to good. All the best for some fine weather. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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