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Running IN using headloaders


Barry Vernon
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Hi Guys Just thought I would get in on the act and ask the experts in this forum what they think about headloaders for setting up your heli motors. I tried to use one on my Raptor recently but just as the revs were peaking out the balls on the end imploded and ripped themselves off of the rods. Fortunately I was running it up in the garden and nobody was hurt but I now have 2 holes in my fence panels where the remains of the balls tried to embed themselves. Are these really a safe option.

This may be a stupid question but could I set the collective on the heli to zero degrees at all throttle settings and then attach the actual blades then use this configuation to setup the engine. You may have gathered I am a newbee to the heli thing so any advice given will be gratefully accepted.

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Hi Barry

Have to ask, but were the headloaders the correct size for the engine you're running-in? Personally, I have only used headloaders once to setup the throttle response on a scale model. I have always run engines in with the blades attached.

The next question is; how competent are you with helicopters? Can you hover one confidently? The problem with setting the pitch to zero at all throttle settings is that you are removing the load from the engine. The throttle and ptich curves should be set to give a constant headspeed from hover to full stick. You do not say what size Raptor you have, but I'm guessing it's a 30. A good headspeed for this size would be around 1400-1500rpm.

The method I use is this;

1. Setup the model with a normal pitch range, (idle -4, mid stick +6, full stick +10 degress).

2. At hover stick, set the throttle to the middle of the barrel. (OS engines have marks on the carb for idle, mid and full.) Use the default settings on the radio to start with.

3. Put two turns on the main needle valve.

4. Do all pre-start checks and start the engine. Let it idle for about 30 secs and then slowly increase the throttle. The engine should be smoking and 4-stroking because of the rich needle setting. Let the model get light on the skids, and if you're happy, lift it into a low hover. If the engine sounds like it's over-revving, increase the hover throttle setting on the Tx by a couple of %.

5. Let the model hover for 1-2 minutes then land and let the engine idle for another 30 secs.

6. Continue to do this for the first tank, but each time you lift off, hold it for longer periods.

7. At the end of the first tank, kill the throttle and immediately put your finger on the crankcase backplate. You should be able to hold it there for about 10 secs.

8. On the next tank, lean the needle by a couple of clicks. Each hovering session should have a longer airtime. After 4 tanks the needle setting should be around 1 1/4 turns and you should be hovering for almost the entire tank. (Use the finger on the backplate test). You may also have to adjust the idle screw at this stage to get a smooth response.

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That is good advice Barry.  I use the same method. You will find in some of the decent heli instructions provided with some models - they more or less say the same thing. I personally wouldn't bother with head loaders.

As you have already done an impression of a Claymore mine  I would say just go with Ants advice and you shouldn't go far wrong.

Al

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  • 2 weeks later...

we tested the gy400 about 2 years ago and found like the telebee gyro is was a copy of an old csm gyro you have alot of servo drift and a problem with the temp ie you have to reset stop the drift in the tx every flight well almost every flight

as for running in most just fit and fly

head loaders i have not used for a while but still have there uses i stick a new engine in a plane first for at least 10 flights once i know its all ok it then goes into the heli but you must make the mixture richer by 1/4 of a turn when refitting

Ron 

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