Jonathan M Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Posted by Piers Bowlan on 23/02/2017 16:00:59: Which one Jon? Any more left? It was 18mths ago Piers, so the chances are slim - PM sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Posted by Gothiquity on 23/02/2017 16:42:13: She flys like a dream on the ASP30FS, just bumbles round the sky very scale like , no aerobatics at all, but that suits me fine, FS sounds great too. [...] Must admit it has a brilliant presence in the sky and handles like a much larger aeroplane than it is. Handles wind ok up to 15MPH , could probably handle more but the pilot cant [...] All in all i can highly recommend this plane, its fairly sedate but it doesn't bite either. The club I fly at are all pretty impressed with it , even when im flying it. Makes a nice change from all the foamie RTF stuff. Also as a bonus i leave it fully setup, so no messing around with taking the wings off. Nice to hear it all worked out and flies as you describe - and no worries at all about the longx4 delay! Just what I'm after for lazy summer afternoons. I did think about buying the next size up for easier vis in the sky etc, but really encouraged now by your report! Particularly like the idea of getting it the car fully assembled and rigged. Post some piccies when you've got a chance, and good luck with the decorating, house move and future projects! Cheers Jon PS Did you rubber-band on the (lower) wings as per the plan or use some other method of fixing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gothiquity Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hi Jon pics as promised, apolagies for the dust, decorating and planes just dont mix. Yes i used the rubber bands for the lower wing, though to be honest i had considered using a captive bolt just never got round to it. The way its designed though when set up wit the interplane struts all you need to do is keep the lower wing in roughly the right place, which the fuselage cutout seems to do well enough. I have taxied without the bands on no issue wasn't quite tempted to take off without them though. As i said i added the metal cladding to protect the wood from the fuel, I did consider mounting the engine inverted but that would have meant adding in a remote glow lead so all in all im happy with it. Looks pretty good though even if it isnt scale Had a fudge with the interplane struts. messed up the split pins so used a hook and eye method instead and then a elastic band to keep both struts in place, works a treat no issues after a season of flying. Took the opportunity to do some lettering myself using solartex, quite happy with the result. I'm sure you'll be happy with yours Jon, mine is pretty much on the money for AUW, had to add a little nose weight to get the right COG , but flies so well. Barely any trim needed, cracking little plane. am tempted by more of the DB range but too many plans and kits to do first. Once you get yours done post a pic , always good to see how someone else tackled the build, be interesting to see how you decide to mount the engine. Goth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Thanks for this, Goth, really useful. One of my aims is to reduce weight where feasible to get as low as possible a wing-loading for 'realistic' flying speeds. So a couple more questions or so: Did you in the end use individual wing servos, and what size? (I'm wondering about micro-sized but fairly powerful Hi-Tech HS-85MG servos for rudder, elevator and ailerons, with a cheaper HS-81 for throttle.) Where did you put the battery and RX? Roughly how much extra nose-weight did you need? The Moth has quite a long tail-moment so I'm thinking of reducing the weight of the sheeted fuselage sides aft of the cockpit by cutting sizable rectangular holes (with rounded corners) between former-stations, and other lightening solutions. Both bigger model sizes employ an open rear framework, so this should be strong enough. I assume the rear u/c struts are held in position in the underwing grooves by the main rubber bands, while the front rotates a bit? Going to install the 30 Surpass upright. I know the model is only stand-off scale, but it'd be fun to try installing a (tuned) exhaust pipe running past the aft cockpit as per the full-size. Also fancy a bit of decorative inter-plane rigging. Blue/silver colour and markings as per the Shuttleworth one, as all the others seem to have the later u/c design and/or smaller wheels - which won't suit our rural patch! I'll certainly do a build-blog (or blog-lite) once I start in due course. Cheers, Jon Edited By Jonathan M on 24/02/2017 15:11:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gothiquity Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 No problem Jon. happy to help where I can. Yes i did use individual servos for the ailerons I used New Power XL-9, work just fine for me, made my own servo mounting plate and fixings but that wasn't too taxing . Cable for servos runs through center of wing hidden beneath fuselage Inside the fuselage i have the main servo tray for rudder (pull, pull) elevator and throttle, mounted again on a lite ply servo plate, this time using New Power XL-16 HM servos again no issue at all. You can also see where i tucked the battery, a standard eneloop 4 cell directly below the fuel tank position. behind the engine firewall. Regarding the lower wing , the elastic bands do not hold the under carriage on, at least not the way I've done it I used two saddle clamps to keep the under carriage wire in the wing groove. Also thought id share a close up of my ever so neat ( if only) wiring work. The instructions said to just use thread but i just didn't trust thread for the job at hand so i used some fine copper wire i had around as you have mentioned this front part does rotate, but you have to keep wiggling it as the epoxy dries .You can also see the aluminium cladding on the firewall , again to protect the wood from the messy engine. Finally i'll mention the tail skid. I spent ages reinforcing the rear area before fitting the wire tail skid and i was pretty happy with it as it gave good ground clearance for the rudder and didn't adversely impact ground handling either , however after a nose over landing (don't you just hate them) i made the walk of shame to my moth and flipped in back onto its wheels and the tail skid snapped off. So i fudged another one from yet another saddlle clamp. had to mount it on some lite ply to get the right ground clearance for the rudder not pretty or scale but works perfectly well. The RX is located in the rear cockpit, seemed like the best place for it, allowed me to get the aerials away from the aluminium cladding. Id have no qualms about buying this kit again, would maybe try mounting the engine inverted and fixing the lower wing with captive bolts, but other than that its a fine plane, I'm sure you will many happy hours(weather permitting) flying in great lazy circuits. If you have any other questions or need more pics just let me know and i'll do what i can, Cheers for now Goth Edited By Gothiquity on 24/02/2017 20:51:43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gothiquity Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 sorry forgot to mention i added 60 grammes of weight directly below the engine. Balances on the COG spot on Goth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Cheers for all that detail Goth Its really useful to see photos of a completed build, as the plans are a bit fuzzy and the instructions fairly sparse, so its a bit hard to visualise things before starting. (I'm also following the current build thread on the 40 sized version as the two sizes share very similar construction.) Thanks for the steer on the New Power servos. Looks like like at least 4/5ths of the spec of the Hitech alternatives for up to 1/3 of cost. I've never been one to risk spoiling the ship for a ha'p'orth of tar, but we're not exactly looking to push these units as hard as one would do in a high-performance aerobatic model. Re the u/c, I see a pair of white nylon saddle-clamps are included in my kit, so this is what they're for! Jon PS I'm definitely going to do nylon bolts rather than dowels and rubber-bands for the lower wing, which will also allow me to cut back the wing-roots at the trailing-edge as per the full-size: Edited By Jonathan M on 25/02/2017 11:12:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gothiquity Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Jon I've used new power in quite a few models and never had an issue so far ( much touching of wood). I know the hi-tech ones always get great reviews and are often a go to servo manufacturer but the price is steep, and as you correctly say with the suggested power source this is not a highly aerobatic model, lazy circuits at scale speed Sounds like a good plan to stay away from dowel and band, would be interested in how you tackle that, if you reinforce the middle section of the lower wing with maybe some liteply and then have a couple of hardwood blocks epoxied into the fuselage, it should work, at least that what i was going to do. Yes the saddle clamps in the kit are for securing the undercarriage to the lower wing, which makes it all the more handy to keep it fully assembled. BIt of a pain screwing and unscrewing saddle clamps. There was so much detail on the larger ones that i wanted to apply to mine, like having the rudder controls come out the sides of the fuselage above the wing, but I'm hoping to get my eye in with a few more kits then re visit the moth and do a bigger one. If you need any more pics or have any questions just shout, i'll do what I can, always happy to help a fellow flyer. Goth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Goth Kudos! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Percy, my view is that as long as the throttle servo is reliable and doesn't randomly bounce around at any given control input, then it surely matters little how lightening-fast or powerful it is. Unlike the wide range of airflow forces on say an elevator, there's no resistance (apart from a tiny bit of linkage friction) being fed back to the throttle servo from the carb. EDIT: £7.25 from Pheonix (I've given the 4.8v sadistics only, the range is 4.8-6.0v) Ripmax New Power XL-09HMB Servo Weight: 11g Torque (4.8v): 3.0kg Speed (4.8v): 0.12 secs 60deg Gear Type: Metal Dimensions: 23.2 x 12 x 24.8mm Bearings: Ballrace Edited By Jonathan M on 26/02/2017 07:55:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Macleod Posted July 6, 2018 Share Posted July 6, 2018 Hi, Just aquired a Cittus Moth 48 inch span with rudder and elevator and of course an electric motor. Can anybody refer me to a plan copy on the internet or even give me the C of G position please? Ready for my first flight tomorrow!! thanks. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Macleod Posted July 6, 2018 Share Posted July 6, 2018 got the C of G position now thanks. Test flight tomorrow evening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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