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I decided to call her 'Darcey'


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I am well into my Ballerina build, having decided to go down the electric route, but opting to keep the F1 firewall in the same place and make up 'U' shaped alloy motor mount to bring the overlander 3548/5 to the correct position.

The area between F1 and F3 is the battery bay that is plenty big enough to take a 4 cell 3300 pack. The 60 amp Esc is mounted under the floor of the battery bay with the live side its main lead routed via an automotive rocker switch mounted in the centre of the cockpit floor, there is room for a pilot figure behind this. The rolled turtle deck section, that include the top part of F2 has been reinforced and forms the top hatch, that is held in place by shaft of the pilots yoke drilled through the cockpit bulkhead.

That's the fuzz more or less completed, the wings might prove a bit more challenging.

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A small note of concern over what BEB's just mentioned, John - the automotive rocker switch. AFAIK, they're unlikely to be rated at more than 16-20A at best, so it would be inadvisable to put one on the live side of your feed from the battery pack to the ESC, where you'll be passing, say, 40-50A.

If you're looking for a power cut-out, particularly when the battery isn't easily accessible, the normal method is to use something like a safety arming plug arrangement, such as this. (Plenty available this side of the Atlantic but it's the first I found!). A switch designed to cope with 60A is going to be rather bulky and heavy, which is why they don't find a place on most models. You can also make an arming plug yourself quite easily with whatever plug system you prefer. The plug system, be it Deans, XT-60 or whatever, is good for 60A, so will be fine for your application.

Pete

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I'd endorse 100% not using a switch in the battery supply. I simply use the battery connection itself as the arming method which works OK if access is easy. However if you feel you need a different method then an arming plug will be infinitely more reliable than a switch at the sort of currents the battery will be sourcing and don't forget any switch failure renders your model a free flight glider.

I like the name btw

Geoff

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I have followed this forum for over a year since getting back into aero modelling now that family commitments and circumstances allow. I had intended to sign up as a member this year and the title of this thread caught my eye and has prompted me to do so, given its also by a first time forumite. I have just got back from Christchurch NZ's airport with my wife after fare welling our son, daughter in law and their delightful 18month old daughter who is also called Darcey. The arrival of this thread seems very serendipitous. They have been with us for 10 days and are returning to Nth Africa where they live - a long way from NZ. Still waiting for the December issue with the Ballerina to arrive at the local hobby shop here. I enjoy all Peter Millers plans and I am currently building his Swamp Rat as a windy weather flier. All the best with your build John

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Well I am surprised at the interest this build has generated already, as I only posted it last evening, as a point of interest for Nigel Grant1 'Darcey' is named after Darcey Bussell, a retired ballerina who is one of the judges on BBC's 'Stricktley Come Dancing program, it may not have reached NZ yet.

I thought the mention of the automotive rocker switch might generate a bit of feed back, particularly after reading Martin Philips excellent article 'Plugging safety' in December's RCM&E. In my defence I have used these switches in about six electric models, since returning to the hobby about 5 year ago and have never knowingly had one fail, perhaps I have just been lucky. it would be a simple job to replace it with an arming plug system. so it will be on the list of mods before she takes to the sky.

to all those who have asked for pictures, I have taken some I just have to sus out how to get them out of 'MY Pictures' and onto this forum.

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John, I guess the reason you're getting away with using that switch in other models is that you aren't actually switching a high current but merely passing it after switching the low current that powers the receiver and esc in idle mode. Never the less, it's an unnecessary risk IMO. What current are you drawing in your earlier models?

Geoff

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