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P.A.W. 1.49 plain bearing - can't adjust compression


Tom Major
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j't a couple of points. Firstly did the cylinder go back in it's original position . I've not worked on a PAW 1.49 but on some engines the porting can be affected if it has not gone back together the right way round .i.e. back to front . Second point re backplate gaskets. I use OFFICIAL brown envelopes. You know pensions , customs etc. I hold a piece tightly across the case opening and either scalpel out the hole up to the edge or tap a small tool against the paper over the edge which cuts the paper accurately to the opening . Roughly cut to reduce the amount left and put the backplate place and pierce the screw holes with a sharp point and insert and tighten them. Now trim the excess from round the plate with a scalpel or similar.. If it's a bit ragged don't worry .If it bothers you use a fine emery board to clean it up.

On reflection I don't think it is the wrong way round but worth a check.. As suggested already let PAW run a rule over it. Well worth the money. They come back like a new engine. I know this as friend of mine bought a rough one cheap sent it off for a check. Looked like a different engine when it came back and what's more it started first flick with no adjustments. Good luck John O/T Oh yes get bigger props quickdevil

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j't a couple of points. Firstly did the cylinder go back in it's original position . I've not worked on a PAW 1.49 but on some engines the porting can be affected if it has not gone back together the right way round .i.e. back to front . Second point re backplate gaskets. I use OFFICIAL brown envelopes. You know pensions , customs etc. I hold a piece tightly across the case opening and either scalpel out the hole up to the edge or tap a small tool against the paper over the edge which cuts the paper accurately to the opening . Roughly cut to reduce the amount left and put the backplate place and pierce the screw holes with a sharp point and insert and tighten them. Now trim the excess from round the plate with a scalpel or similar.. If it's a bit ragged don't worry .If it bothers you use a fine emery board to clean it up.

On reflection I don't think it is the wrong way round but worth a check.. As suggested already let PAW run a rule over it. Well worth the money. They come back like a new engine. I know this as friend of mine bought a rough one cheap sent it off for a check. Looked like a different engine when it came back and what's more it started first flick with no adjustments. Good luck John O/T Oh yes get bigger props quickdevil

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An 8x4 prop has quite a bit more inertia than a 7" prop, and that makes starting and setting up MUCH easier! You really should get a nice, heavy 8x4 - it will make your life so much easier!

Regarding the spray-bar, as others have said, if it has two holes, have them arranged horizontally with respect to the venturi. ie: You should just be able to see both if you look down the hole!

If it only has one, have it *almost* straight down the throat of the venturi, but *slightly* offset to one side. At low RPM (when starting!) the air in the intake gets quite turbulent, and offsetting a single-hole spray bar slightly can improve the fuel draw.

--

Pete

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Once again thank you for pointers gents, I appreciate them a lot.

Peter
I do realise bigger prop will have more momentum, but I just didn't want to wait for it to arrive in the post and that 7x5 is not bad at all regarding start up. I will get more props soon anyway as this is not the only engine I play with, I want more diesels in my collection smiley

Onetenor
I was sure I have put the engine back to one piece exactly the way it was, during strip down I marked positions of head, liner and piston with black marker and then sharp blade, as marker didn't quite work on oily surfaces smiley. Anyway, today after work I had close look at it and took off the head for a moment, to correct alignment of the ports. It wasn't much, but I thought it's worth a try.

NVA was cleaned yesterday, but I did clean it with carb cleaner, just for piece of mind. Then went outside and had some fun with positioning the tank as she wasn't picking up the fuel correctly, once that was sorted I started to flick again. First attempts were rubbish, far too rich again. So I loosened compression, closed the NVA a little, primed and boom, that's the result



Turns out there is nothing wrong with the engine. One particle of sand and too eager operator resulted in very poor performance, but it's all good now. In the video she still doesn't run to full potential, simply cause I was unable to tweak it with phone in my hand. That run was also a duration of entire fuel tank, well without 10-15 seconds for getting the phone ready to record. When I didn't record, engine was running better and quicker. Needle finally had some effect on the engine too.

I know it's not enough to change my forum nickname to Eifflaender, but hell, got it figured out smileylaughdevilcheeky.

Once again thanks to all who contributed to this thread. Wouldn't have done without you!

Edited By Tom Major on 18/12/2017 15:49:16

Edited By Tom Major on 18/12/2017 15:58:57

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Mike, I saw them in current issue, but surprisingly have not seen UK source? The nearest one was in France? Where did you get price in GPB from?
I also saw some more brand new P.A.W. and CS, not to mention endless supply on ebay smiley. Only yesterday I missed out on ED Racer...


Jon, yeah, now the sound was much different than in my first vid of it running. I need to sort out a bit more stationary test rig as my current one tried to depart when I finally found the sweet spot .

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many moons ago when I was probably about 10 I was helping my dad bench test a dc sabre when it departed the test bench and (complete with its integral tank flew) over the fence into the garden next door! Luckily they weren't in so a covert operation behind enemy lines was called for to fetch it back!

Edited By Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 18/12/2017 18:48:43

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PAW needles have a split down the threaded part so squeeze this gently together with pliers. Close the needle fully and open two to two and a half turns, back off compression, Prime and start flicking, if no joy, increase compression until you get a fire, don't need to choke every flick but every few and make sure fuel is being drawn up. When it fires and keeps running carefully increase compression until firing smoothly and then adjust needle for max revs....don't go too lean.....

Edited By Mike Stevens on 18/12/2017 19:08:12

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