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Sunderland Flying Boat


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Being anal retentive in terms of scale I thought I should 'ring the bell' As an aside, did you know that the outboard floats were mounted on shock absorbers with about 6" of movement for rough see landings?

Am I right in thinking  that the Flap cutouts on the upper surface are tapered? My MkIII drawing shows them parallel and tapered on the underside.

Keep building! I love your attention to detail.

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Have discovered,I think, that the out-thrust was to give airflow over the tail feathers for better control during docking  procedures. The tradeoff was a slight reduction in forward efficiency. Sorry to hear that Tony didn't attempt the flaps, I'm finding it very difficult to find info about them, size (width) and direction of movement, rotational or linear, or I suspect, both.
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I used fine piano wire soldered on the cross. As you can see on the picture the float struts are on a taper, drill two holes in each strut, when you assemble it together it locks the wire in, I just ran a drop of thin cyno in each of the 4 locating holes. The struts are 1/2 inch streamline aluminium tube from K&S. Fred
http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/30187/sunderland_107.jpg

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Hi Fred

Great blog, which I have been following with interest.  Can I ask how you found the finish with the hand painting (I presume you mean with a brush!

I am thinking about my next build, and have been working on the assumption that to get a good camoflage/warbird type finish would require an airbrush- which I can't afford!

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I would only brush with mat paints, My problem is I have to spray outside. the cheap airbrush is OK the exspencive ones are for the skilled painters. The finish  in the mat paint can always be treated to a going over with T-CUT to get a nice finish. I will do the wing when the paint is hardend offf. Fred PS £12 will get you an Airbrush, or look on Ebay.
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