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SLEC Electric FunFly


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The good thing with having a May birthday is that its a good excuse to buy another plane kit to build and its warm enough in the garage to build it.

After a few months of reading up on the net and pondering if it would take my flying skills forward early May the SLEC Electric FUNFLY was purchased.

On delivery the box was opened to”check for damage” and take out the build instructions for a sneaky pre birthday read and put together a motor, esc, servos and any other goodies I fancied shopping list.

The contents of the box were well packed with everything neat and tidy and the included hardware and small parts neatly wrapped in sealed poly bags.

Box as delivered

The plastic cowl had a small rip / crease in the top but only effecting the area that would be cut away when the excess was cut away for fitting.

One day after birthday, build began with identifying and cleaning off fuz parts as very well documented and described in the build instructions. A plan is provided for the wing but all other parts are “build - stuck together as per the detailed written instructions cross referenced to a book of pictures.

Excellent wood selection, very accurate laser and cnc cutting made the build easy with other than the standard sanding of laser cut parts a fairly painless experience.

Aliphatic and epoxy were the glues of choice and with parts being interlocking, a flat work surface and a set square things progressed quickly.

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Control run snakes in, rear decking to do and thinking of wings already!

Ribs & Ply Spar

Main spars and ribs. I wasn’t sure about the amount of cut out at the front and rear of the ribs but with a front D box and rear cap strips on I have found them to be very sturdy.

Decking on and front hatch made and shaped you just have to see what its going to look like with cowl fin and tailplane don’t you?

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Edited By Richard Ashworth on 17/07/2019 20:36:51

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Using the plan and the good old set square the the wings quickly went together, Lower hardwood spar glued to ply strip, ribs glued in not forgetting servo boxes, and using the false leading edge as a check,  then upper hardwood spar added and done!

Ribs cut out

Basic structure

R

Edited By Richard Ashworth on 17/07/2019 20:45:15

Edited By Richard Ashworth on 17/07/2019 20:45:47

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Leading and trailing edge balsa added then wing sheeting done. Good time for another “trial”

Pre Leading edge

Not sure what its going to look like finished, a bit like a “duck”!

Davids plane, Permagrit block, fine sandpaper and the first HUGE pile of shavings - one cheek piece done!

Fin fillet pre and post

More to throw away than keep.

Second one done and have to say improves the rear!

Fin cheeks place

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I don't know about the electric version - nor the built-up wing for that matter- but I had a couple of the earlier versions with a foam wing and a glow engine and they were excellent flyers. I powered mine with an Irvine Q40 at first but it was too powerful for a pre A cert pilot and was replaced with a Super Tigre 34 which was perfect and got me through my 'A'.

The first one went to model heaven when a too quick charge to take advantage of a decent winter day had it fall heavily to earth when the NiCad went flat - my fault, of course. I built another but can't recall its demise.

The one potential weak point is due to the mid-wing design which makes the fuselage quite weak where it fits. Mine blew off my model stand onto the wing tip and there was enough inertia with the weight of the engine to snap the fuselage just in front of the l/e. If I were building another I'd consider adding a trippler in the area of the fuselage side - tapered to spread the load gradually. Of course the new design may be different.

Whatever, you'll enjoy it, I'm sure.

Geoff

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Hi Daniel

I have to say it was a 50/50 decision between buying a jig or “risking it”! The “risking it” won as storage of the jig would have been a problem afterwards and I did a more difficult fuz ok sans jig last year.

I spent time on getting the central formers and servo tray in and square and checking that the rears of both fuz sides met both in length and horizontally. I also used a long steel rule as a check.

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Posted by Richard Ashworth on 17/07/2019 21:46:58:

Hi Daniel

I have to say it was a 50/50 decision between buying a jig or “risking it”! The “risking it” won as storage of the jig would have been a problem afterwards and I did a more difficult fuz ok sans jig last year.

I spent time on getting the central formers and servo tray in and square and checking that the rears of both fuz sides met both in length and horizontally. I also used a long steel rule as a check.

Thats a great answer thankyou. I do have a slec fuz jig but was interested in how you went about it as one of these is on my list to build. I Look forward to seeing it finished.

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The only item not used was the supplied hinges. Two part, metal pin joined. I was not confident in getting then in firm enough without gluing at least one solid so it was polyester / CA for the ailerons and fin and pinned 25mm Mylar for the elevator. Completed 13th June - maiden 15 June. Smooth as silk with reduced starting throws and glides like a sailplane power off!. 3548 Thumper motor, 60A esc, 11x8 leccy prop and 4cell 3000 battery (10 mins flight 50% left, must try harder).

Geoff - I am not sure how an i/c version could be sweeter! (And thanks for the warning on the fuz!)

Edited By Richard Ashworth on 17/07/2019 22:14:46

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Richard, when I flew mine electric flight was an art rather than the piece of cake it is now. Everything I build now is electric. I'm sure you'll enjoy yours. I fly my Wot4 on 4S 4AH LiPos and get similar endurance to you. In fact I had 46% left after just over 9 minutes from take off to final landing.

Geoff

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