The Bolt chuck Glider Powered Version

[Stephen Jones]

Hi,

Just thought i would share my conversion of the Bolt chuck glider into a rc powered plane.

I decided that i would make the wings flat with full Ailerons this time around and Power the model with a 250 watt motor .

So lets start with the wings.

I cut a 36"x 1 1/2" balsa trailing edge into half. So half for each wing.

I then cut 1/2" taper of each trailing edge so that the narrow end is near the tips of the wing.

I measured from the shoulder of the wing 2 1/2" then lined up the back of the trailing edge with the trailing edge of the wing and drawn around the balsa trailing edge so i can see where i need to cut out the un-wanted foam from the wing.

So i can replace with a balsa trailing edge.

[Stephen Jones]

To cut out the Un-wanted foam i used a fresh blade and a long ruler . Making sure the blade was angled in wards so i can top hinge the Aileron.

I also needed to create a taper on the Balsa trailing edge to allow for full movement of the aileron.

Steve

[Stephen Jones]

I decided i would cover the balsa with white solor film so that it would match with the foam wing.

I then lined up my aileron with the wing to make sure i have good free movement of the aileron.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

With the ailerons completed it was time to mark out where i would fit my carbon spar.

I decided i would use a square carbon rod 6mm x 6mm by 1 meter long and as the wings taper back i would not be able to fit the spar in the normal 1/3rd portion of the wing so i opted for a more rear ward position as this would allow for full span giving more ridged wing over the full length of the wing.

The wings have already got ailerons marked for use so i measured from the top hinge line corner 35mm and placed a pin at both ends of the wing so that i could draw a line. And from that line drawn a additional line 5 mm in to wards the Centre of the wing.

I then cut along these lines approx 5mm deep.

Steve

[Kevin Fairgrieve]

Still have my "Wonky Wings and Wheels" purchase to convert.

 

Following with interest.

 

Kev

Edited By Kevin Fairgrieve on 31/10/2019 07:08:41

[Stephen Jones]

Hi Kevin,

Wonky Wings yes i forgot to mention that there is a polyhedral in these wings. .

And so they would need bending flat, no need to use heat simple bending action is all that is needed here.

It will try and bounce back but once the spar is glued in place it will stay flat.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

I used a router to make a channel between my cut lines approx 6mm deep so that my spar is a snug fit .

After gluing the spar into position i wanted to give the wing tips added strength.

So i used some thick clear plastic which i reclaimed from a box .

I cut it to roughly 15cm x 10cm and cut a curve to match that of the wing tip and used contact glue to fix to the under side of the wing tips.

When dry cut the over hang free so that the Aileron can move freely.

[Stephen Jones]

Next i need to install the two servos i decided to fit them on the top of the wing so that long grass would not snag on the linkages when landing.

I also decided to fit them as far out into the wing as the servo leads would allow this is so that i could fit additional servos and split the Aileron to make flaps if needed later.

 

So i used a pen to draw around my servo this was positioned 20 cm away from the shoulder and 5 cm up from my Aileron hinge line.

 

Steve.

Edited By Stephen Jones on 31/10/2019 18:55:43

[Stephen Jones]

I used a sharp blade to cut along my pen lines just deep enough for the servo to be flush with the top of the wings i then used a router to remove the un wanted foam again set just deep enough for the servo to sink into the wing.

Next i needed to cut a channel for the servo leads on the underside of the wings.

This was a case of making a hole through to the bottom of the wing and drawing lines towards the centre of the wing just wide and deep enough for the leads.

The leads would be glued in place with contact glue.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

I centered my servos and fitted the control arms and glued into place.

I cut a slot for the servo arm so that it would move freely after testing i glued the servo lead into position.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

I then decided i would try and laminate my wings to give them extra strength and durability as a quick alternative to glassing them.

As i have not tried this method before it would give me some insight on future projects.

I soon discovered that it does not stick to plastics very well, especially solar film which is a shame as i was hoping I could cover over the top of previously covered solar film jobs where the decoration may peel away.

I feel that a pre treatment of spray adhesive would help here but would add to the faff.

After covering the foam wings it was time to add some wing band protectors again i used some thick clear plastic which i cut into two strips 230mm x 40mm i then glued them onto the top of the wings near the shoulders of the wings then wrapped the remaining under the wings . Again contact glue was used here.

 

Here is the finished wing with the stickers added along with the control horns and linkages and the top portion of the fuselage.

I wanted to be able to swap the wings from my previous glider to see which i prefer.

The ailerons where attached with clear packing tape.

Steve.

Edited By Stephen Jones on 31/10/2019 23:12:13

[Stephen Jones]

Ok,

Onto the body of the plane.

I used a fret saw to cut away the cockpit and the top part of the fuselage where the wing will seat.

Next i need to remove some of the foam to create a space for the radio gear and battery.

I cut some card into a strip 250 mm long by 35mm wide i centered this from the rear of the wings seating position.

Pinned into position when happy it was centered so that i could draw around it.

I used a fresh blade to cut along the line to a depth that would leave 10 mm clearance from the bottom of the fuselage. i pulled out the bulk of the un wanted foam .

And once again used my router to clear away the final un wanted foam to get a level floor checking with my finger and thumb that i am not going too deep..

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

I also used a sanding block to get it all square .

And keep checking with a ruler that the sides and floor are square.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

So now it was time to chop the nose off to fit the motor mount and support.

I cut off approx 40mm with a angle to give slight right and down thrust.

I used 7mm thick Ply for the motor mount which i drawn around the cut off to get the right shape.

Sanded the motor mount to profile and marked the motor fixing holes.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

Next i marked the center line which was easy as there is a injection mold line there already.

I cut a slot in the front of the nose so that i could inset a 1/8th ply to support the motor mount and add additional support in the front area.

And i have forgot to take a picture of that part but basically i slotted some ply into the front end then drew around the nose and internal area and added a skid and support for the motor mount.

I then cut some slots into the motor mount key into.

Steve

[Stephen Jones]

It was then a case of gluing into position the ply and then adding the motor mount.

Here is a view from the side.

I then drilled a hole for the motor wires to go into the nose and fitted the motor and the nose that i cut off i sliced in two and glued back on the nose making sure the motor spins ok.

Its a bit late now so more tomorrow .

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

Hello again,

Ok so next it was time to line the inside of the model with 1/16th Ply,

The floor i made with the grain going cross wise so that the floor would follow the curvature.

The cardboard template i made earlier was use to here to draw around.

Then the sides i made a further template from cardboard by sliding into position and cutting the bottom until happy with the fit, then draw around the sides of the plane and then i added a further 20 mm to the rear of the template as this would be needed to slot into the rear.

Below you can see the slot i made in the foam for the Ply sides to slide into.

Cut out the Ply and glue into position after repeatedly checking the fit .

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

Next i use some fiberglass rods from a old kite to use as wing dowels to hold the wings in place using rubber bands.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

Hi,

Next i added the Elevator control servo.

Due to adding extra weight at the front of the model (motor) i need to balance the model by fitting the servo into the rear.

I measured 4cm from the leading edge of the tailplane then drew around the servo.

Next i used a sharp blade and cut around my line at about the same depth of the servo.

And used a Router to remove the un-wanted foam so that the servo would fit snugly into position.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

Next i used a Brass tube to bore a hole from the inside of the body to the now made servo slot.

I could of just cut a slot along the body then made a hole into the side to get my servo wire where i need it.

But that would not be me would it. .

I eyeball my tube to gauge where i want to start and finish.

Then while pushing the tube in i rotate the tube to aid the cutting of the foam.

After the hole has been bored into the foam i insert a plastic tube to aid the feeding of the servo wires after temporary removing the plug from the servo lead.

After feeding the wire through the plastic tube the tube is removed and the servo plug re-fitted.

The servo can then be glued in place.

That looks much better.

Steve.

Edited By Stephen Jones on 10/11/2019 18:14:32

[Stephen Jones]

The elevator servo is nice and flush with the side of the body.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

Now that part is out of the way it is time to move on with the rest of the build.

The rear of the wing shoulder needs some 1/16th ply glueing in place and the front of the wing shoulder needs some balsa adding.

The cockpit area i glued some 2mm Depron to take up the gap the saw made during the removal of the cockpit.

Sanded and shaped to take the wing.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

Tailplane,

On the underside of the tailplane i drew where i am going to fit my 22cm long tube which is 5mm in diameter.

I measured 4cm from the front of tailplane. To draw my 1st line then draw one more 4mm behind it .

I the used a sharp knife to cut on my lines.

I used a router to create a grove into which the carbon tube would fit.

After the slot was finished i cut off some of the blue outer sleeve from a control snake that would act as a bush for the tailplane to pivot, this plastic tube was the same length of the Centre section.

The outer parts of the carbon tube only are Hot glued into place i used none stick sheet to push the glue flush.

Steve.

Edited By Stephen Jones on 10/11/2019 18:48:16

[Stephen Jones]

I then cut the Centre section of the tailplane free and then made a 1/16th ply control horn and a further 1/16th Ply for gluing onto the end of the tailplane. Then two 1.64th ply for the tailplane center section.

Once glued in place i laminated the underside of the tailplane.

I then added the stickers to the top of the tailplane.

The center section is now hot glued into place.

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

This is the tailplane fitted. Complete with control rod.

Steve.