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Pegasus/Galaxy Models Musketeer


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6 hours ago, Tony H said:

Do you know if the kit comes with a fixed or steerable nose wheel and is it designed for std size servos?

Mine has a steerable nose wheel, and I use 12g metal geared servos. As it is electric there is plenty of room for a servo up front with a short linkage to the nosewheel.

 

I put one in each wing half whereas the plan suggests one central wing servo with two metal torque rods provided for the ailerons. Much easier to cut a small box in the foam/veneer wing and put a servo in each.

 

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On 17/09/2020 at 13:39, Shaun Walsh said:
Posted by Redex on 17/09/2020 12:14:42:

I have one and finished it a few weeks ago. Its an electric conversion but I have not maidened it yet. Soon I hope.

Would be interested if you could post details of your motor/prop/esc/battery combination. Was it easy to convert to electric power?

The OP started another topic on the Musketeer. I put a photo of my electric conversion on there. I've just got mine out from under a thick layer of dust to get it ready to fly, I'll take some piccys.

 

 

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On 17/09/2020 at 14:57, Bob Cotsford said:

Back in the mists of times gone by I had one powered by a Merco 35 which was perfectly adequate by the standards of the day. Regarding costs vs ARTFs, in my experience kit builds often work out more expensive once you tot up the cost of all the accessories and covering but you have the satisfaction that it's all your own work.

While the price of the Musketeer kit has gone up quite a lot, I think the total cost of building it is about the same as an ARTF, however it is much more robust, and you can buy spare foam wings, cowls and canopies. HK covering is quite cheap these days, and as good as any other.

 

However, kits have the great advantage of being able to use one's standardised parts wherever possible. For instance, I've used the same make of 12g servos for years now with very reliable service. Some of the ARTF servos are rather low quality.

 

A kit is also easier to customise. Converting a Musketeer to electric is easy, but some ARTFs made for IC or electric are really difficult. I fly with a 5S 4000/5000 battery in my WAT4, totally unnecessary, except I might as well use the larger motor/battery combination instead of a ton of lead up front. My Musketeer flies with no added weights in it.

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Internal layout for electric. Also I did not use the wing band provided. Instead I glue the two wing halves together with Gorilla brown foaming glue, clamped to ensure they cannot move and then because I do not have aileron torque rods, both the central part of the leading edge and trailing edge are made of ply. This gives a super strong wing and a clean wing join. The all up weight including a quite heavy 4S 3000 battery is 2.30kg. Motor used is a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 3542 motor. Prop, 12x6 or 11x7. The nosewheel servo and the ESC are under the tray under the battery. There is no added weight in the plane for balance.

 

 

20210404_192635.thumb.jpg.d3dfb6b5f164195f64216981fbb50d13.jpg

 

 

 

20210404_192711.thumb.jpg.b6d57a4d35fb8da2481a5b3d1cc75d41.jpg

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Lovely job Andy - and thanks for detail on servos etc.

 

PS agree about ARTF's not being at all robust... just this afternoon shattered my second Boomerang fuselage - aborted takeoff came down in the slight rough but wing bolts didn't sheer because the designed-in 'weak-point' was the rest of it!

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26 minutes ago, Tony H said:

Your plane looks great Andy, you say yours has a steerable nose wheel, did that come with the kit or bought extra?

I think some of it was in with the kit, the nose leg, and I used a standard fitting to mount it. It fits behind the motor.

 

 

image.jpeg.163c3e08dbb45b97bdaadd05237fab5d.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Andy48
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Looking at that right hand photo, I would be careful with the design. The top two mounts of the steering bracket will take quite a lot of hammer over time, yet it has created a weak point by having air vent holes between each of the top fixings. You will also need to cut a slot  for the servo link in the same area so I would suggest remaking the bulkhead and putting a large central air hole behind the motor instead of the arrangement shown.

Edited by Andy48
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