Hawker Fury Mk1 Replica, K1930 (OO-HFU)

[Tony Bennett]

nice work as usual sir.

Tony B

[Jim Andrews 1]

SWorry I have not thanked you earlier for your reply about engine mounting, so a belated thank you. Somewhere I have seen a photograph of a laser mounted in the Fury but the side ply pieces are cut away more than ours will be. Anyway I am on wings now and have already experienced the c.s. difficuties that others have talked about.

At first I thought my late start was a real pain, but now I am reading others threads it is very helpful. Thank you one and all!

Jim

[Jim Andrews 1]

Sworry, what's sworry!!!

Jim

[Danny Fenton]

The idea is for us to all learn from each other. I am glad you are finding answers though, if you need anything just shout.

Cheers

Danny

[Andy Sephton 1]

No probs Jim and you're welcome.

Next job for me was to fix the rigging points to the wing. I started by epoxying the bent bracket to the spar, then, when dry, I bound it in place and fitted the ply plate over the top.

Epoxied rigging brackets:

I used simple whipping to bind the bracket to the spar. It's a knotting technique that I learned in the Cubs back in nineteen fifty something (sounds a lot better in words than figures...). If you haven't used it before, it's worth a look. It gives a neat result, it keeps the binding taught and it ties it off without slackening. There's a good diagram here:

https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/common-whipping

..and here's how I applied it to the Fury.

Equipment used was some strong thread that I acquired at an aero-jumble some years ago, a 'heavy' needle, masking tape, and a runny adhesive to spread over the binding to ensure its stability.

I used a loop of the thread to stop it slipping off the needle and to half the number of loops I had to make around the spar. First off, a further loop was made in the thread which was temporarily fixed to the spar with the masking tape.

Then holding the loop in place, I started to wind the thread around the spar. The binding is pulled tight on each loop and held with the fingers. Note how the first go around the spar fixes the position of the initial loop.

The last loop then goes through the initial loop and is pulled taught:

The initial loop is then pulled closed to hold the binding in place. I pull it so that the free end of the binding goes under the binding to ensure that it's held securely

The free ends are then cut.

Finally, some aliphatic resin was smoothed over the thread to seal it in place.

The job is finished by adding the ply plate over the top. The rigging bracket will be bent down to suit after the wing is covered.

I can now get back to adding the capping strips, which is where this little job started!

Edited By Andy Sephton 1 on 20/02/2019 09:38:49

[Danny Fenton]

I got into so much trouble for this:

"The last loop then goes through the initial loop and is pulled taught" LOLOL

Get editing quick before the grammar police catch you!

Great method though Andy I will do likewise. Of note the plan calls for packing the area between the spars with block, you have an "I" beam setup so not needed but others need to take note

Cheers

Danny

[Andy Sephton 1]

Update time again!

I've done a bit to the fuselage in that the engine mount has been cut and that and the engine dry fitted to check the throttle cable position:

For the rest of the time, I've concentrated on the wing. I've glued the lift wire brackets to the lower wing roots:

..bound them in place and covered them with ply plates - the latter are not shown on the plan but I've added them to give a 'land' for the covering. I've bent the brackets up to allow binding and fitting of the ply plates. I'll bend 'em back into the correct angle after covering.

For the rest of the time, I've been cutting and fitting the capping strips. On a quick quantity check I reckoned that I'd need some 35 times 36" lengths of 1/16" x 1/8" to complete the job. So rather than give the credit card some grief, I headed for the scrap box and my trusty balsa stripper. Most of the cap strips have thus been cut from scrap wood:

[Martyn K]

Mine were cut from offcuts and scrap as well.Nothing worse though than a capstrip that is 2mm too short..

[Jim Andrews 1]

Sorry to bother you again Andy. My question this time cocerns the outer L.E. of the aireleon, Is it rounded

athank you again

Jim

[Andy Sephton 1]

Apols for the delay in responding Jim, the short answer is 'yes it is'. I have a lot more posting to do to catch up, but one of the pics will be of the aileron outer LE.

[Andy Sephton 1]

I've been doing a lot of small jobs since the last posting. The odd pic has been taken and the results follow:

The capping strips have been added to the wings and the servos screwed into position on the top wings:

The bottom wings and empennage have been sanded to shape

I've bent the tail skid wire to shape, bound it to the rear fuselage and completed the rear fuselage sheeting

I've decided to mount the tailplane horizontal rather than at the incidence shown on the plan. I believe the latter is due to the hole in the three-view being at an angle to allow movement of the tailplane on the full-size for trimming. For normal flight, the tailplane would be horizontal, so that's how it'll be on my model. It should work out OK, but time will tell....

It would have been a first if the fuselage stringer slots had been in line - accordingly, the slots were widened using a steel rule and modelling knife!

The stringers were then added to the rear fus:

Wire bending for the centre section and undercarriage struts. I've used an engineers vice, 2kg mallet (to guide the wire into the required bend), and a hacksaw. My technique is to lay the wire on the plan and mark the centre of the join. The wire is then set in the vice with the marked point about 2mm or so proud of the jaws. The bend is then made and the result compared to the plan. With the knowledge of the relationship between the required bend, the actual bend and the mark on the wire, the next bend can be carried out with accuracy.

Also, when bending symmetrical shapes, I try to make the bends symmetrically rather than in series. Again, this helps making a symmetrical result.

...and here's the result":

With the tail skid and sheeting in place, I did a rough balance of the fuselage and discovered that with the servos behind the firewall, the model was too nose heavy. The Servos have, therefore, been moved to the cockpit area, which has allowed a better run for the control wires. The rudder closed loop has been dry-set up.

[Tony Bennett]

nice work sir.

my servos are under the pilots seat as well.

Tony B

[Danny Fenton]

Looking great Andy, we will get there eventually

Cheers

Danny

[Gordon Whitehead 1]

Hi Andy

I have sent you a pm

Kind regards

Gordon

[Andy Sephton 1]

I've had rather a long lay-off with this one, but Danny's recent posts have inspired me to carry on. It's now near the top of my build list!

The following three photos show the sheeting going on at the frot of the fuselage. It's a slow process ... but not as slow as the build has been over the past few months!

[Danny Fenton]

Looking good Andy, lovely to see everybody back on with the Fury's.

Not sure if get together this year is viable, but next year certainly is

Cheers

Danny

[Andy Sephton 1]

It's time to get back on with this one again, with a view to getting it flying for the BMFA Light Scale Competitions in 2021.

Starting again after a 6 month lay-off meant I had to spend a few days getting back into where I was with the model. But that done, I've got off to a good start. The following summarises where I was 6 months ago and reports on work carried out over the past few days.

Planking continued 6 months ago with a decision required as to how I was going to model the gun troughs. In the end I laminated a balsa block slightly larger than the largest dimension of the trough, and fitted it in position in the fuselage and the Centre-Section (C/S) hatch.

see front end of following photo

Planking continued leaving the fuselage looking like this:

The troughs were then hollowed out using a Perma-Grit round sanding tool of appropriate diameter. The pic shows one trough done and one to do on the C/S.

[Andy Sephton 1]

I parallel with the planking, the brass clips were bent and attached to the C/S hatch with counter sunk bolts.

Sanding continued on the fuselage to form the gun troughs. Pics show left side before and right side after:

[Andy Sephton 1]

The next task was to fit the motor. In the end, I've decided on the Laser 70. With it's rear carb, choking the engine prior to start may be an issue, So I decided to move the motor forward to make enough room to get my finger over the carb. This increases the length of the nose by about 15mm, but as I am making my own cowl and the model will be for sport scale/flying only, I feel the mod is justified.

The following pics show the position of the motor relative to the plan position and give an idea of the increase in length of the nose. They also show how the cowl was progressively built up. Note that the underside of the cowl is completely open to give good access to the engine and to help with cooling.

I then fitted the engine, cut a circular form for the front of the cowl using a compass cutter and fitted it to the front of the model, centred over the engine. There's no pictures of that operation, unfortunately!

[Andy Sephton 1]

Following a lot of planing and sanding, the fuselage now looks like this:

The next job was to decide on hatches under the fuselage. In the end, I opted for a removable hatch over the tank/engine servo bay and a fixed hatch behind it. The engine bay will remain open underneath.

The issue with the latter was getting access to the C/S hold down bolts for fitting, tightening and removal. In the end I solved it by adding a wing nut to the bolt and removing the lower part of former F5 . I could then get my hand into the right place and operate the hold down bolts without issue.

The tank bay hatch will be laminated from 2 x 1.5mm and 1 x 3mm balsa. The pic shows only the 3mm balsa core for the tank bay

The 'wing nut' solution:

The engine in place, showing what will protrude under the cowl:

[Martyn K]

Coming along very nicely Andy.

I have never had to choke a FS yet. In fact the most difficult job is stopping them from flooding when inverted. They use fire up after a few seconds on the starter

Martyn

[Danny Fenton]

Great have you back on board Andy, push through to finish looks achievable?

Cheers

Danny

[Colin Leighfield]

It looks really good Andy. It was a hard decision for me to go electric on mine, I love Lasers and still feel more comfortable with i/c on larger models!

[Andy Sephton 1]

I'm embarrassed to learn that it's a few days under three years since I posted here. It's high time I added an update!

 

In 2021 I completed the basic build of the model, extending the nose slightly to contain the Laser engine. I glassed the front of the fuselage, covered the rear with silver Oratex, covered the remainder of the model also with silver Oratex and applied Mick Reeves metal covering. The result was awful - my lack of skill rather than the covering process. Nevertheless, I added vinyl markings cut on a Silhouette Cameo 3 and by now it wasn't looking too bad. 
 

My interests changed and the Fury was put to one side. I started thinking about it again early this year and eventually made the decision to strip off the metal covering and convert the model to electric. I started that about a month ago and work is progressing nicely. 
 

I'll post pictures later today when I fire up my laptop.