Graupner Elektro Junior S

[Renato Aranghelovici]

The best review available, in French ! can be found here:

 

Edited By David Ashby - RCME moderator on 09/07/2009 09:47:43

[Colin Naylar]

There is a video here

 not a great video or flight, but its the only one I've found.

 Colin

Edited By David Ashby - RCME moderator on 09/07/2009 09:47:18

[martyn sharp]

I got this kit about a month or so ago i was going to start it this weekend, it looks nice pity there is no ESC with it but still not to bad for under £70.00 the motor seems very powerfull and  well made .

Martyn 

[Colin Naylar]

Let us know how it goes Martyn - looks pretty good 

[David Ashby - Moderator]

I've just popped that French review conclusion in babelfish and here's the summary......I think he likes it

 "I had the chance and favours to have had, have built personally and have controlled these 3 models, therefore I hope that my conclusions will be objective. To summarize, which distinguishes primarily Elektro Junior S compared to his rivals is his quality-price ratio and the quality of the motorization.

Afterwards, all is a history of taste, each one moving towards such or such kit according to esthetics, because the differences in flight remains finally tiny. Arcus east can be able flies about it because of a finer profile, more handy Easyglider thanks to the corrosive one of its drift.

Elektro Junior S undoubtedly remains more balanced of the 3 by proposing satisfactory performances in all the flight envelopes without excelling in a field in particular, except obviously on the setting in altitude thanks to an engine “pêchu” even into 2 S.

In Conclusion For me, Elektro Junior S does practically one without fault while benefitting from its late appearance on the market to correct or improve the points posing problems on the competitor models. By offering at a particularly gravitational price a foam model equipped with a superb motorization (which with it only is worth in the 40 Euros, price catalogues).

Graupner settles outset at the head group. Of a design thought particularly well, the model is very homogeneous in flight, functional the use and easy to control and thus answers fully its target going of the training 3 axes to the sailplane of relaxation for more experienced pilots (of which I form part). In short, if you in the near future wish to equip you with such a small foam motor bike-sailplane, then Elektro Junior is definitively serious claiming! "

[Renato Aranghelovici]

Owning it, I want to highlight the main problem of this model, emphasized by the French review too, the original wing carbon spar ! There are several movies on youtube showing crash of it in the air , so there is no doubt it was underestimated.

The original was 10*9, and, starting this summer Graupner replaced it with 10*8.

I was aware about this weakness from the first stages, so I enforced mine with another inner carbon spar of 8*6. The local Graupner dealer (I am from Romania) replaced on his own cost the original Graupner wing spar with one tougher, after his first maiden.

How you can check what version you buy? Simple... the first version has the servos under the wing and long bowdens, the second version has servos in the tail and better wing CF spar.

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Thanks Renato, that very useful

[Colin Naylar]

Brilliant translation David (if you are in the market for a small foam motor bike-sailplane). Are you gonna do a full review of this one?

[David Ashby - Moderator]

I quite enjoyed the translation, got the gist of it anyhow :-) Yes about the review Colin

[Phil Winks]

This looks like one for the xmas wish list but would like to verify the wing reinforcement issue 1st. Have to admit if I'd simpl seen the name in an add prob wouldn't have looked any further it's certainly not as small as it's name implies

[iawnski]

just wondering anyone had any probs with speed controller ive tried 2 different   -30 amp sc  in the model and they dont work ,i then put a 40 amp sc and its fine ,,??

[Renato Aranghelovici]

Mine works with a 20/25 A ! Robbe Roxxy BL-Control 720

[iawnski]

wow

[Capt Kremen]

Am I seeing Double, Double - vision on this site(?)

[Posts left here reviewing(?) - I left my review of this model on the review pages awhile ago(?)]

As stated, Mk 1 has Servos in front fuselage + weak spar. Mk 2 version has servos in tail + stronger spar. For further info, download the latest Graupner instruction manual from their site.

Watch out when fitting the motor in its plastic mounting and then securing this assembly into the nose. If you are not careful you could inadvertantly cause the motor wires to rub against the rotating motor outer case. Reinforced tape wrapped around the plastic motor mount sealing the open slot solved this for me. You'll understand all when you see the mount!

I replaced my spar with a 'stock' C/F rod that (most) shops stock, no problems encountered. 

Also beware of T-tail mount nylon/plastic 'nut', it doesn't have much foam to adhere to. If it pops away bye-bye tail and model! I fitted a thin plastic plate over the nut to 'spread' the load area.

Stock motor is fair, (though great value for an of the shelf). Goes better on 3S but watch the Amps. Needs more distinct colour scheme, the decals as supplied are poor and don't show up well against the sky.

2.4 Radio (Spektrum 6200 Rx) fits in a treat with no problems. Flight Power 3S 2500mAh, Tornado 40A ESC (the later so far hasn't been a problem!). Experiment with the Graupner props too.

I have a Multiplex 'Easy Glider' Electric which by comparrison is not quite as manoeuverable though has a more spirited climb, (than the stock E Junior), with a brushless in it.

Summary - Easy build/assembly, great value for money considering. Now just waiting for some more good weather to put it through its paces further.

[matthew prigmore]

help

i have just tried to update the firmware and now it comes up with mf when i press record..

can you help

thanks

[mike birks]

hi all,just a wondering if you can help,have purchased a Graupner Elec junior,but not sure what glue to use,i believe ordinary thick cyno will do the job,but to join the two fuselage sides im not sure if i can use my trusty UHU Por,not really to sure about joining the fuselage sides together with cyno as it might not give me chance to check all is aligned before they are commited together,i have read that solidpor and elapor are very similar,but cant find any info or very little on the types of glues that can be used,any ideas?? would be most welcome,many thanks kind regards and a happy xmas mike.

[Renato Aranghelovici]

I don't know the UHU Por but manual states clearly:

 "Use cyano-acrylate  glue  (“cyano”) with  activator  as  adhesive  for  all  joints  unless  stated otherwise. Joints are best made by applying cyano to one surface, and spraying the mating surface with activator.

...

On no account use Styrofoam cyano-acrylate (“foam cyano”), white glue (PVA wood glue) or epoxy resin adhesives. These glues do not produce strong joints between any of the kit materials and the SOLIDPOR high-density foam. "

I used medium cyano without any activator and it is good since spring. 

[Capt Kremen]

The Graupner 'SOLIDPOR' is to all intents and purposes the same as the Multiplex 'ELAPOR'. I regularly build kits from both these manufacturers and assure Mike you can use ordinary NOT Foam Friendly as stated super-glue/cyano.

I use the super glue 'Medium' viscosity as sold by Punctillio Models together with their associated spray 'kicker/activator'. The 'medium' gives a little more time to adjust things before 'it's too late!'

(Multiplex sell their own label version 'Zacki Elapor' (at a typical Multiplex price!!!!) if you really MUST use kit manufacturers (badged) products!)

HEALTH WARNING/CAUTION - The quantities of the glue and activator that are required, (particularly when joining large surfaces e.g. fuselage halves), can give off quite irritating (to nose, lungs, throat) fumes. I recommend applying the glues outside if possible or in a very well ventilated area. The 'kicker' creates a lot of heat when going off (exothermic reaction - as I recall from school physics?) so also watch your fingers as you hold parts together whist the glue kicks in and sets. How do I know this???? If you do get fingers/flesh stuck to themselves or model parts, use Acetone to dissolve the bond. A small bottle from the local chemist is about 70p. Again use in a well ventilated area and don't breath the fumes/vapours.

'UHU POR' is a great glue but can be 'heavy' if care in application is not heeded. Used with the previous caution, a good super-glue/cyano is the best and quickest method.

[David Ashby - Moderator]

I used the Mpx Zacki cyano on my Junior S glue as it takes just a little longer to set so giving time for parts to be aligned. I applied it to one side of the fuz and then worked my way up the fuselage putting masking tape round to progressively hold it together. The motor/nose area will need holding with fingers till the cyano grabs as it's a tight fit there.

[Charles Lai]

The Elektro Junior S only recently appeared here in the states. I love the lines of the plane, I was wondering if anyone has any additional comments or suggestions regarding the Elektro Junior S since it appears people have had a chance to build and fly the plane for over half a year now in Europe.

[Alex Leigh]

I've flown mine for a month of so. Burned out 1 ESC which was interesting but not a fault of the S. It has more than enough power with a 2S and will vertically climb for a while. Glide performance is good, nice "full house" model, lots of control authority on and off power. I've not tried it properly on a slope yet, but in the field by my house, I get a couple of minutes of nice gliding from a 15 second power run.

 

I don't fly it like a power plane much but it will pootle around on 1/4 - 1/2 throttle at a decent lick. Quite aerobatic (limitation me, not model), very tough as when the ESC burned out it plunged vertically ino a wheat field from 80 feet ish and only pulled the T-Tail off!

 

So generally, an excellent model, easy to build, nice to fly, good motor, decent glide, onl issues I had were

 

1) Wings get loose in the fuz quite quickly (compared to my eg). I've reinforced the roots with CW tape and now they're a good tight fit again.

 

2) Very hard to see and sticker pack is pretty rubbish. I painted mine:

 

3) Couldn't get the cofg forward enough even shoving the batt all the way. Had to add 20gs of noseweight.

 

4) Motor gets quite hot as the vents are very small.

 

On a 2200mah lipo I get about 20-30 minutes depending if there's a hint of thermal and how busy I am on the sticks.

 

In summary, great model, not much cash. Much fun

[Michael Leach]

I have set up the ailerons/airbrakes as per the manual but there is no indication of deflection for the elevator. Worse still, once I have glued the sides of the fus together, there will no way of making changes. The delection looks too small at about 8mm each way.

So, could you help me by telling me what elevator deflection you get on your Junior please?

Edited By David Ashby on 30/03/2012 15:42:39

[Terry Walters]

Michael - You will find 8mm quite enough if you haven't made any changes to the power train! There's a long tail moment so the effect is quite strong - if you are still worried make sure you set it all up just perfect with the recommended COG and maybe put 10mm on full rate but maiden it on a reduced rate of 8mm. Then if it seems ok fine if not try the full rate.

I've had one for almost 2 years which demonstrates two things - firstly - that it's a good and robust plane. Secondly - my flying's improved.

Cheers

Terry

Edited By David Ashby on 30/03/2012 15:43:05

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Just moved your posts across to an existing Junior S thread chaps.

[Michael Leach]

Posted by Terry Walters on 30/03/2012 15:19:58:

Michael - You will find 8mm quite enough if you haven't made any changes to the power train! There's a long tail moment so the effect is quite strong - if you are still worried make sure you set it all up just perfect with the recommended COG and maybe put 10mm on full rate but maiden it on a reduced rate of 8mm. Then if it seems ok fine if not try the full rate.

I've had one for almost 2 years which demonstrates two things - firstly - that it's a good and robust plane. Secondly - my flying's improved.

Cheers

Terry

Thanks Terry.

I found another arm for the servo and trimmed it so that it it just failed to touch the other side of the fin (Mk 2 has the tail servos inside the fin). I can now get 12mm one way and 14mm the other using the outermost hole available on the arm. Tomorrow I will glue the fus sides together for good and take your advice about deflection and set up two rates.

Many thanks,

Mike