Martin McIntosh Posted October 17, 2021 Author Share Posted October 17, 2021 Yes, I know, but I did it as per the formers shown on my plan. Pics to follow, the former shows eight and the side view maybe nine. Similarly, the wing only has two intakes whereas yours has three so maybe this one was based on a different variant. Considering that I have simplified the control surface hinges after my woes with the Chippy I have become less fussy and will be happy if it looks OK to most and flies well. The plan shows the half moon pieces which take the stubs as 1/8th birch ply! Mine are 1/64th glued to the 1/8th balsa. I shall now need to think about the tailwheel retract a bit more. I have an ex glider one which is very light but no steering; my other option is a HK MCR nose unit of which type I have used before but the geometry leaves a lot to be desired; a closed loop from the rudder servo may well negate the extra weight incurred just where I do not want it so some grey matter scratching before I proceed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 17, 2021 Author Share Posted October 17, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 18, 2021 Author Share Posted October 18, 2021 The proposed modified tailwheel retract unit. The spring will hopefully keep it central during retraction. The plan shows a simple unit with no up or down lock, presumably so that it can go way more than 90 deg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 Now looking at the fairings and the front of the wing fixing. The plan shows a hideous arrangement of steel parts slotted into the main spar, but mine will be a rather more conventional ply tongue into a ply former. I am really puzzled by F2, the one behind F1 with the exhausts on. It was cut as per plan but is clearly far too long. The pic shows a line where I think it should be cut to. The fairings shown on the plan are somewhat vague to say the least and I shall have to sheet the sides up to them and go from there; there is no indication on the plan, or provision for, some ply on the lower surface. I have done virtually nothing to it over the last two days other than scratch my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 crikey! That would have me pulling my hair out. From what I can see instead of the usual twin dowels from the leading edge into the former in front it has those steel brackets into the main spar. When you built the wing did you make provision for these to drop through appropriate slots in the top skins and to some kind of ply box in the spar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 Certainly not. As I said above I am using a ply tongue on the LE which is much simpler to align than dowels. God only knows why the guy chose to use steel brackets. Also, the rear of the wing will be fixed with two standard nylon bolts into a ply plate with T nuts. Any comment on that F2 before I cut it down please? It looks to me as though the designer ran out of ideas as to how to draw the various parts. There are lots of glaringly obvious errors on the plan. I have not built the fin and rudder as yet but they will definitely not be by the split down the centre method as is shown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 22, 2021 Author Share Posted October 22, 2021 I always cringe when it comes to wing fixings because you only get one go at this so they have to be spot on first time, but I took my time and they have turned out well. Don`t as yet know what to do about that gap between the wing TE and the fus. but I expect that it will come out in the wash. Probably sheeting next so I shall have to dig out the ammonia to assist with bending. I could possibly pull out the diagonal 1/4sq. at the rear during this to save a little rear end weight since they are only spot glued in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted October 23, 2021 Share Posted October 23, 2021 Can’t see a reason not to remove those F2 protrusions. On my Fury the fuselage shape continues the same form/circular shape as the cowl for a few centimetres and where the wing meets its forward lower side has to be built up and blended back as per photos on my thread. Behind the wing also needs blending back after the rear fillets have been fitted. I got the angle of these wrong to begin with so had to cut the pieces off, reposition and add some extra balsa as per this photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 23, 2021 Author Share Posted October 23, 2021 Not sure how correct this is but it is my interpretation of the vague plan. I tried bending the litho but in the end I think that I shall cut and fit later. Before fitting the balsa I shall have to fuel proof inside because it is bound to get covered in fuel and rather inaccessible later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 I looked at the plan pics again, Martin and see mow that the F2 stubs are there to help align the wing to fuselage mating procedure. Anyway looks like you have that all sorted now. Re the weight saving, apart from care with balsa selection for the tail surfaces I wouldn’t worry too much. taking out the diagonals aft of the wing sounds drastic to me. If the model turns out too light it just won’t fly as well IMHO. If we want to emulate the full size flight characteristics of the Sea Fury our models will need a balanced combination of power and weight. Too light and they will look like sport trainers without the momentum to pull off scale manoeuvres. Here my favourite clip of a Sea Fury putting on a great display. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Now what do I do? On checking against the plan, F2 is drawn completely the wrong size (that is the one which had those strange protrusions). The top part is correct, so all I can think of is to debond the lot and codge it back on after cutting down. Should have noticed this much earlier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Managed to wrench one side out and have cut it down by a huge amount. Luckily the parts which broke were to be cut off anyway. There is now even room for the sheeting to go on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Fantastic video. Now all I need is a Moki radial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share Posted October 28, 2021 Started to sheet the fus. and having done this sort of thing many times before it should be comparatively easy but of course it is not. I think that I have eventually worked out how the front should look like in the end from my lousy plan and looking at Nicks excellent example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 Good to see the diagonal bracing stayed in ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted November 2, 2021 Author Share Posted November 2, 2021 More of my errors/plan errors showing up. On the drawing it is not clear that the fus. underside sheeting up to the former in front of the wing TE should have been omitted. No wonder it was a devil to bend. Good job that I made a card template of the ply fairing first because that was a mile out too. Now corrected. Virtually nothing on the plan to show the shape of what are presumably intakes from the wing just above the front section so I may have to guess at this bit from photos. The missing LE intake will be cut later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 ‘Virtually nothing on the plan to show the shape of what are presumably intakes from the wing just above the front section’ The only openings I am aware of are two air cooling and one radiator on the leading edge plus 2 sets of louvre vents on the forward lower centre section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted November 2, 2021 Author Share Posted November 2, 2021 I mean the bits protruding from the fus. sides above the front third of the wing as on your model and full size pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 Aah, wondered if you meant those. They definitely are not air intakes. Only thing I can think of is its somewhere for the Pilot to step onto so he doesn’t put his foot through the wing fairings. They are both interesting and awkward shapes to replicate and they appear very different from different angles. Rather surprisingly there is no mention of them in my Fury book. To make mine I used a bit of epoxy putty I bought years ago from a plumbers shop. Amazingly still soft but hardened off fine in 10mins after mixing, which just gave me time to make both. Reviewing the photos I think mine are a tad narrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted November 2, 2021 Author Share Posted November 2, 2021 No, no Nick. The bits on each side of the fus from the lower rear of the cooling ducts extending rearwards down to the fairing are what I mean. I need to fit these very soon if only I knew the size and correct shape which seems to curve up then down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 Hope these help: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 And these too: built up from laminations of 1/4” so balsa hungry. The litho plate cover was my first attempt and I have only done one side. There is a narrow strip too to go a little further forward, but that gets painted. Probably my next job after I finish the rivets as needs gluing in place, making good edges and masking up prior to the final top coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted November 2, 2021 Author Share Posted November 2, 2021 Thanks a lot, that gives me much more to go on but blowed if I know why they were not detailed on my plan. I suspect that it is because the person who re drew it from the original was not a modeller and did not realise the significance of a few squiggly lines here and there. This could also explain a lot of other huge inaccuracies such as former shapes being miles out. I know that I have only used the very lightest of fus sheeting but does not explain the `starved horse` which I may end up with. Now got the 1/32nd ply fairing seats fitted but need to do a fair bit of in filling at the rear of the wing where that rogue former is placed in order to get the fairings flush with the wing upper surface. Just starting on the fin but instead of that lousy method of making it in two halves then joining I shall build over a central core which will then be cut away to save weight. Not tried it before other than on open structures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted November 4, 2021 Author Share Posted November 4, 2021 Fin and rudder with the central core removed and one side sheeted. 9g saved here which will be worth about 50g in the nose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 Looks plenty sturdy. How do you cut the holes in the block rudder base? Very tidy cuts. Does your plan show the balance tab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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