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RCM&E Tipsy Junior


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I want to build the Tipsy Junior - is anyone else building one? If so:-
a) What have you done about fitting the throttle servo? The plan shows the route and location of the elevator & rudder servos, but does not show the throttle servo.
b) How have you set up the aileron servo? The plan shows clearly the two bellcranks for the ailerons but does not show the aileron servo or the connection of the spanwise wire to the aileron servo.
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Hi David,
I don't normally show the throttle cable run because there are variations in throtle arm location. Basically the servo arm ends close to the right side of the fuselage.. Depending on the position of the throttle arm on the engine, drill a hole in F-1.and then a hole in F-2 in a straight line between the hole in F-1 and the servo arm.
If you sharpen a piece of 8SGW piano wire about 10" long you can use that as a drill to go through both formers. Use it in a normal power drill, a Dremel opr similar is too fast and could make the wire whip with very painful consequences.
The aileron servo is mounted flat on its side using Radio Active servo mounting brackets.
If you look at the Sonerai plane feature you will see a picture of my standard setup. Don't siler solder the wire, just use soft solder.
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  • 8 months later...

Peter Miller

 I am stillhaving trouble sourcing all the items shown on the plan. Where do I find control horns like the ones shown for the ailerons? Where do I find Radioactive servo mounts? I have tried most of the major retail web sites without any success - my local model shop does not have either of these.

David

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The horns shown on the ailerons are normal nylon horns. The person who redrew my plans has stretched them a bit. The standard horn will end up with the holes behind the hinge line but this will merely give slight aileron differential the right way.

I think that the problem with most retail websites is that they don't bother with the small and useful stuff, just the big expensive goods.

 Any decent model shop should stock the brackets. Give Galaxy a call  on 01473 729279and you should have them next day, Alternatively phone Nexus  on 01233 713665 Ask for cat number RC5368.

A tip for all your builders. Get all the catalogues that you can, then you can find anything that you might need. I have Ripmax, Perkins, Nexus, SMC. Micro-Mold, SLEC etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Peter,

I am enjoying the build very much as it is my first plan build ,previously building a few kits and scratch building,can I have your opinion please on the control runs.In the past I have always used the plastic snake system with outer snake captivated,I see a lot of models,even new bigish ones with the square balsa and wire,is this a good method and does the wood need supporting in the middle,not captivating,as it just moves along an horizontal plane doesn't it?

 Many thanks,

           John.

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Hi John

I use snakes becasue they are so much simpler. I use Dubro Lazer Rods because they are not affected by temperature. (Available from any good J> Perkins stockist. If they don't stock them they should!) You can get some embarrasing trim changes with some snakes if the day is much hotter or colder than last time you flew it. If you can get the lazer rods just be aware of what can happen.

 Push rods are OK. They need a little support because they can bow under high G manoeuvres. When I use pushrods (Very rarely these days) I like to use Micro Mold transfer links. These are a small lever mounted on the side. The pushrod connects to the inside of the lever and the outer end is connected to the control surface. This avoids bends in the pushrod  which can bow. It also makes life much easier and the pushrods much more free in operation.

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Thanks for reply and advice Peter,I will stick with the snakes then and try the lazer rods never really thought about temp.changes affecting the snakes before,some good advice there.Thanks for reply on other post re scaling plan size up,I decided to build as drawn I have an Enya 25 doing nothing  runs sweet as a nut and quiet to boot.

 Regards

    John

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I am sure your Cussutt will be on "rails",I have a free plan from yonks ago for that,if its the one i am thinking about,was it a racer?The plan I have has 32 or 33 I.D.on the tail.can I ask you another question please Peter?The Enya has a swivel plate on the forward part of the silencer which covers up a slot,what is it for?I think it may be to introduce some "prime"to the cylinder or after run oil,of course I could be completely bl**dy wrong.

 John

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Cheers Eric,engine is fine,burbles like a good un,put a tankfull through on Thurs as I hadn't run it for a while,started 2nd flick,pays to look after them doesn't it?I always let mine drain fuel and stop and put a drop of 2 stroke oil in and turn the prop a few times by hand.

John

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  • 8 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Well at last the great day arrived,imaginary fanfare please,decided lunchtimethat the weather was at last good enough to go flying and to maiden my Tipsy Junior,it was finished about 5 months ago!!!!!

Anyway,the engine wasn't really on song but went for it,what a delightful model,well done Peter

I am a bit of a coward at maiden flights and have the rates on,halfway down strip at 3/4 throttle she was airborne,bit twitchy with those rates(dozy s*d) knocked rates off two clicks of down and that was it,wind picked up but she handled it ok,dead sticked after about 5 mins but got it down and should have gone home.Filled her up and away again about 8 mins this time but had really enjopyed myself,plastic wing bolt sheared this time(it's what they are for)now to sort out engine.

Thanks again for a nice design Peter,well done you.

John

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  • 3 years later...
Hi Peter,
 
I've just abandoned my planned winter build on the grounds that several people feel it wasn't a good flyer so I've come round to looking at the Junior. I have an OS20 Max doing nothing but it's at the low end of the power range, something I'm normally wary of. Do you think it's worth a go please ?
 
PS
I've just bought your "Hints & Tips" book; a mine of information !
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