Vinno Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 Anyone have one and give an honest opinion ? .......also anyone put a anything nearing 350w in one ie hyperion 3025/08 ?? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Sorry Vinno, not seen that one fly. Early versions of the kit had a horrible starved horse effect on the upper fus' but assume that's now been fixed at the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinno Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 cheers David, will revise my motor choice if I get one as the prosposed one is too beastly, but is the only "spare" one I have kicking about. Vin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I guess it must weigh about 2lbs? with a 3S 2500mAh Li-Po so 350 watts would be just about ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinno Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 ....yeah, it states around 1.9 - 2.6lbs, said hyperion swinging a 10 x 7 is around 350w.. which made a rippers spit clip along at a fair old rate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 You could prop back a bit to a 9 or 10" maybe? I used a 9x6 on my Decathlon EP. Edited By David Ashby - RCME moderator on 30/03/2009 20:33:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinno Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 checked my figures , correction 327w on 10 x 7 , am in a quandry now as scared it might be too much , ...but now.......that devil is back on my shoulder! ( you know the one that appears around last orders.......) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 High Vinno I had one of these beauties for a few minutes. Mine had a 350w motor and took off like a rocket. Alas it flew superbly in the hands of my instructor and didnt want to land but in my hands it was demolished in minutes few ,all my fault.Ive fitted the running gear into a mpx mentor that maidened today it was a superb flight but I had trouble seeing it against the cloud so my instructor put it throgh its pacesnanother go Thurs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NigelH Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 I'm sure that David is mistaking the PC-9 EP with the Spacewalker EP. That 'term' he used has put me off buying one ever since, especially as my buddy quotes the 'term' from the magazine if the SW gets mentioned. I've had the PC-9 and it's good value for money but I didn't like the way it flew and sold it after one flight. Call me simple but the rolls weren't axial enough for me but then I like aerobats. I should have held back. A few comments about the PC-9 EP. I've seen the nitro version and there's not a lot between the two in terms of fuselage size. When I was building mine I noticed that one of the spars was pushed in. I returned it to the store expecting them to be dubious about it being like that when I got it but when they opened another one it had the same problem. In the manual they show someone tightening the thumb screws which hold the wings on. That's naughty because they manage to exclude the battery tray in their pic which stops your own fingers from getting in there. I used the 2814-8T combo from BRC (about £35) and a 2200 3S lipo for about 300W which is a good match for it, the Decathlon EP (every bit as good as the RCM & E review says), the E-Flite Taylorcraft, etc. You can use a fifth servo for the nosewheel - use a UBEC if your ESC can't do more than 2A. If I saw another one in a store, I may well pick up another. There's maybe nothing else to beat it for the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinno Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share Posted May 3, 2009 Hi all , thanks for your help, I did end up getting one and am using a circa 300w Turnigy cheapy and is spot on for it. All in all very happy with it and seems to fly very well, definately one for the calm days though! Contsruction is a tad flimsy and the wood used is almost tissue like in places, but you gets what you pays for......... Would definately recommend reinforcing the area around the nose wheel bulkhead though as it wont take much abuse at all. Thanks again all Vin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinno Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 oh .......and one more note , wouldnt bother using the supplied "glue in" control horns, accident waiting to happen imho ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Good luck withit Vinno ive now the bigger electric Space Walker by Seagull waiting for me to catch my flying up to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn sharp Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I know this thread is a bit old but i have just got a PC-9 and looking at the instructions the way the wings are connected is not secure or maybe I am being a bit thick there is no mention of any other lugs or dowels but the holes are there holes in the end rib and the side of the fuselage but no hardware to support it and no mention of it in the instruction's thanks Martyn just found out how thay are held 4 small bolts saw them on the JP website but defanly not in the instrucions . so glad i heve got the web.Edited By martyn sharp on 09/08/2009 09:52:18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NigelH Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 No, I reckon that they are in the instructions, and I'll tell you why Just look at this, as I posted above. 'In the manual they show someone tightening the thumb screws which hold the wings on. That's naughty because they manage to exclude the battery tray in their pic which stops your own fingers from getting in there.' You'll see what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn sharp Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 yes i saw that Nigel which made me think they might have changed something it was your post that made me look on the website . dont surpose you know what page it was on because as i said not in mine !!!!! but thanks Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NigelH Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I don't have the manual now but I remember as clear as day the photo of a hand inside the fuselage turning one of the 'thumbscrews'. There was no battery tray. They made it look easy which it most definitely wasn't. In my case, I had to resort to using my long nosed pliers to get to the head but even that wasn't a quick job. Here's a bonus tip Most cheap ESCs typically only have a 2A BEC. That's normally deemed to be enough for four sub micro servos. So, if you have another servo for the nosewheel, you ought to be sure your BEC is better than that or be looking for a cheap UBEC. http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/?page=shop&action=additem&item=860 Otherwise, you could end up with no power to your radio if you drive the servos hard and draw excessive current. It would depend on the servos as well as the built-in BEC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn sharp Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I must admit i try not to use BECs and use a separat battery for the Rx must not yet trusting of the systems. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry G Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Hi Martyn and others, tried my idea of flexible drive screwdriver with allen key type bolts, battery tray still in the way!!I think the answer will be to cut out the covering on th u/s of the fuss. to get at the fixings and make a removable hatch. Garry G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NigelH Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 No need. I used long nose pliers and turned them - bit by bit - for ages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn sharp Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Hi Garry so we meet here as well found this online seagull EP PC-9 on another forum Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry G Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Can anyone confirm the C of G as the manual says 5.5 - 6.5 cm back from the L.E. measured at the tips. This seems to work out at about 10.5 cm at the root which is about 40% back from the L.E. which can't be right or have I got my sums wrong. Garry G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn sharp Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Hi Gary, as I worked it out it runs right up the wing spar but I feel it is to far back my self hopfully some one who has flew one can help Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry G Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 HI Martyn, Found a good site htttp://adamone.rchomepage.com/index5.htm which has a C of G calculator and this puts it at between 88mm -99mm-110mm from root L.E. depending on the STATIC MARGIN ( safety factor ) of between 5 - 15%.Sounds all very technical doesn't it!! Won't need to borrow your 2.4 gh set up as I wrote of the plane on Sunday using Mike Cowley's gear, didn't get a chance to see if it solved the problem. Regards Garry G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn sharp Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Hi Garry sounds a a good site sorry to hear about your plane I haven't been able to to to the site lately been in hospital and a bit unwell still hope to make it up there soon. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry G Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Hi Martyn, hope you are feelig better. The PC 9 C of G saga continues hopefully to a conclusion.Having projected the suggested position in the manual of 55 - 65 mm from l.e. at tip to the root it came out at about 97 - 107mm back from l.e. which is very close to the figure that I got with the calculator mention in my last posting. This is about as far back that is recommended before the plane gets really twitchy.I am going to start at 90mm back which is about the maximum 15% recommended Static Margin which needs about 4.5 ounces of lead at the front to balance the plane, can always take some out after test flying.The back of the spar is about 70mm from l.e. so I guess if you were to put enough weight at the front end of the plane to balance it at this point it would be too nose heavy. Plane weighs 2lbs. 9ozs all up so without the lead would be close to the figure in the manual. Perhaps I should invest in a larger battery, at the momment using 2170 3s pack. Garry G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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