new builder needs help

[Phil 9]

 

 

This was my first build and i am pleased with the result. I just have a few jobs to finish it off ready for flight. But I am already planning another build.

 

I love the scale models in the magazines. I would like my next model to look more realistic ( This one to me looks like an RC toy).

 

I want my next model to be “scale look” even if the plan is not based on an actual aircraft.

 

Anyone have some tips on how to produce a “real” look. For example if I built this same design again how could I make it look real.

[Stefan Hafner]

Hi Phil

 

A lot of real planes have one main bsae colour, usually something like white or gray, with some simple designs painted onto that, 

Also, most planes tend not to have a gloss finish, it's just too much effort to keep them that way unless you have hangarage, so a matt or satin finish will look more realistic.

 

And you could always add a few panel lines with a pen, but carefull not to punch a hole in the covering

[Phil 9]

Should I be looking to use a specific type of covering?

[Stefan Hafner]

It all depends on the look that you're trying to achieve. If you want to go for a WW1 look a fabric style covering such as solartex is good, but it can be a pain to mask for painting, as the thin paint from a spray can seep under the edge of the mask.  I've used glass cloth to good effect in the past but this can be tricky to use and keep the weight down, so it's not ideal for smaller electric models,

 

For most things solar film or similar is fine.  My first build was a T180 finished with solar film, and i used a bit of trim tape to add a few details.  I tend to find that adding too many details makes a model look cluttered.  The only models that I think work with lots of decals are things like edges and extras where they would have a lot of sponsors anyway.

 

Have a look at some real planes, such as cessna's or pipers on google.

 

I've noticed that on most planes the wings are the base colour with maybe a few details at the wing tips and the registration number, but not much more.

[Phil 9]

thanks Stefan for the tips. it all makes good sence

[Ernie]

Hi Phil, Most full size aircraft are weathered, or plain dirty..Especially, have a look at pix of

WW1 examples, they were really beaten up After all the were often serviced in a field.

 

When you have decided on a prototype, have a look at pictures of the original, and try to replicate all the oil staines, exhaust marks, scuffs etc. You can use graphite powder for dirt, oil paint for oil, and bits if silver paint to represent chipped paint.

 

Re. finishing materials, you can't beat solartex for fabric (also, it's easy to apply) For a solid metal, or timber finish, try very light glass cloth, and a WATER based resin. You can get ths from Falcon aviation, they call it skin crylic, and again, its dead easy to use. 

 

ernie

[Phil 9]

I used solarfilm on the model above. it good and easy to use but i guess not the choice for scale planes

[Tim Hooper]

Phil,

 

If you rub Solarfilm with a Scotchpad or scourer before its applied, it'll lose its shine quite authentically.  Just be gentle though...

 

tim

[Terence Lynock]

Could always add a radial cowling made from the top of a big spray can, depending on model size I have found the tops off 'Lynx' deoderent cans look good as they have more rounded tops a bit like some of the Japanese radials.

Alternatively cut away the top of the forward fuselage and fit a dummy four cylinder in-line engine made of Balsa and plasticard etc, a few exhaust pipes sticking out and a bit of soot to mucky things up works OK.

The undercarriage legs can also come in for some treatment with Balsa fairings just epoxied onto the wires and slightly larger but narrower wheels,

 

regards,     Terry

[Phil 9]

Thans everyone for the ideas