Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 And me! I am glad i chose to go to college instead of going to sixth form, now i have experience heat treating metal, operating mills and lathes and i would never have got to use them if i had gone to sixth form! I am doing a plan design which i hope to send off to RCM&E so i may be able to get one of these with the profits!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Hi Dave, my boxes arrived yesterday, the long thin one (containing the electronics) is badly damaged and fixed up with Post Office tape (you know, the stuff that says 'found opened and damaged'!) Am taking photo's and documenting this morning in the light. Have also notified Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted May 5, 2009 Author Share Posted May 5, 2009 What a pain . Hope all the goodies are are intact. Does it look like any bits are missing or damaged ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 That sums the post office up in one paragraph! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Hi Dave, Aaaarrrhhh! about sums it up, my sister didn't order the electronics package! It was the second of Marks packages that was damaged, just a few screws lost. So I don't have electronics on the way, this may not be a bad thing, since I see some users have been suffering overheating and associated problems. I'm looking seriously at this the only problem would appear the be the length of the motors at 3.1" 2.25'" motors are quite difficult/expensive to come by. How difficult would it be to put these longer motors in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 Look on the bright side, at least you can always find a few spare screws and you didnt lose the electronics. My electronics wernt stock either but I used 54mm motors ( same size as the phlatty easy-cnc package). I presume at 3.1" your motors are the double stack config ? Ive done a quick measure and the longer motors physically wont fit without a few mods. The Z axis motor will scrape on your benchtop as it will poke out of the base and the X & Y motors will prevent you from sticking one of the sides cheeks on . As a last resort you could raise the phlatty on 1" block /legs to give Z clearance and simply cut holes in the sides the side cheek for the X&Y motors to stick through. Not pretty but should work. I'd be tempted to double check with Mark just in case theres anything Ive missed but should be a a 20 minute fix. The double stack motors have bags more torque by the looks of it. so it might end up being a superphlatty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Hi Dave, thanks for the prompt reply, 245oz/in to be exact, 2.5 times the recommended minimum. I see a number of guys have cut access holes in the sides of their printers to allow access/removal of motors, so the X&Y shouldn't be a problem. As you say it's just the Z. I'm tempted to go with the complete modular system that's guaranteed to work from the getgo. I'm waiting on a quote from easy cnc including postage and a relay board, I'll see how it works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Strefford Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Hi Folks Just some info might be of use I have a Step Four Basic CNC machine and found this site for bits etc http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/index.html . I found them very helpful quick and prices are good compared to local engineering suppliers, also cheaper than Step Four bits seem to last well. In my machine I have found a normal drill bit (all be it a 0.8mm) cuts depron well you just have to play around with revs and cutting speed so that it cuts cleanly. If you are using large cutters are you then trimming the radii out of the corners by hand? With my machine I tend to drill each inner corner before starting the outside cut this way the radius of the milling bit is effectively removed, but you do have a small hole the diameter of the drill in each corner. If anyone wants any further help please feel free to pm me. I don't profess to be an expert just have the experience of using my machine for a number of years, tend to cut bits and pieces out of ply or epoxy glass sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 Tony, Ive modded the side cheek of mine so it unsrews so Ive got access to the x & y motors ( both held in with M4 hex head screws and spiked nuts). I think a few guys have been playing around with hi-torque steppers with great success, so it might be another option after a little more research (i'm great at spending other peoples money BTW ) . Hi Eric, Thanks for the link. The bits Im using look identical to the Down Cut Routers . Ive got a 1/8" for general cutting and a 1/16" for the "intracate" work. For the foam test cuts ive done so far the radii (radiusisis) are fine , but I suppose the 0.8mm (1/32 "??) would give better results. Im still definately on the rookie side but slowly learning As for the ply and epoxyglass, what sort of head speed and feed speed have you found best. As youve probably read we've also been playing around making small motor mounts and control horns so please feel free to chip in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Strefford Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Hi Dave I will check the speeds for you tonight when I get home.You might have to adjust to suit your machine as the material I am cutting is clamped to the bed and the milling head moves. You might not be able to use the very small cutters as the cutting length gets shorter as the diameter goes down. I have used down to 0.4mm but they tend to break if you sneeze so have given up on them. I find that for glass or ply the rotary rasp type cutters (some are referred to as diamond cut) work best on ply or epoxy and last longer.Ply is especially hard on cutters must be the glue! I must admit I prefer to use epoxy glass to ply as it is always to the same quality whereas ply is sometimes more flexible or it breaks or splits so not giving good quality components might cost a bit more but worth it in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Strefford Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Hi Dave Just checked speeds as follows Depron 3mm 0.8mm dril 90mm/min 8,000rpm Polysterene 3mm 1.2mm 2 flute 150mm/min 9,000rpm Balsa 5mm 1.2mm cutter 2 flute 400mm/min 18,000rpm Ply 1.5mm 1.8mm cutter 200mm/min 15,000rpm Poplar ply (light ply?) 3mm 1.2mm cutter 450mm/min 18,000rpm Epoxyglass 1.6mm 2mm cutter 250mm/min 20,000rpm Apart from the depron and polysterene I tend to use max revs 20,000 rpm as I have to manually set speed on the Proxxon router previously it was set in the software which is where the above listing came from. I don't think it is critical on the small tool diameters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 Nice one Eric, Info like this and Tonys numbers should make life a little easier when it comes to the tricky stuff Much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 Hi Dave, sorry to bother you, I've got my printer kit and am waiting for the electronics. While I'm waiting, is there anything, or any area that you would have changed while building your printer? I'm half minded to build as supplied, and then see what mods I want to make. However, looking at the build blogs, it seems that some areas are only accessible by breaking the machine to pieces! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 Hi Tony, No probs, funnily enough Ive been cutting with it this afternoon (raining again !!) The only real mods are making the right hand outer side cheek removable (held in with wood screws )so Ive got access to the x & y motors .All the motors are held in position with caged nuts and hex head screws, again so they can be removed if they need replacing at a later date. The top board (not the lid) is screwed in postion into 1/2" square batterns glued in a framework underneath underneath so In not screwing into the MDF Ive also mounted the electronics in a plastic box and added mains rocker switches to drop the dremel power and main power . Also added a relay board to remote start stop the dremel so it switches on at the sart of the program and off at the end. Ive also added limit switches to the Y axis just in case. One final mod was a lid stay to stop the lip shutting when positioning the foam. The lid is really heavy as its got the steel rollers mounted inside so its a bit risky balancing it on its hinge..ask me how I know !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 Hi Dave, so you're saying that most of these mods that the guys are doing is OTT! I take you didn't bother with a 'Home' switch? Any chance of a pic of the limit switches? I must say that I felt that 1/2" ACME lead screws in what is only a 1/4" Hardboard box seemed to be 'more in hope than anger'! Do you feel there's any gain in fitting Bronze slide bearings in place of the plastic electrical conduit? Had a look at the Blender in the June issue, those undercuts could be easily done on the Printer with the right end mill. Just do it before you cut out the parts! I doubt it'll take much longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 I suppose half the fun with something like this is modding it to your own spec. No doubt as time goes on ill add a bit more bling but as it stands it does its job perfectly, although Id definately recommend making the side cheek and top removable. You can alway get at the rest of the internals by tipping in upside down. My camera is at work at the minute so I cant take any pics but the limit switches are just cheap mini lever microswitches, similar to this . Ive just screwed one at each end of the Y axis so the dremel mount touches them before driving itself through the side of the cabinet. The X axis dosnt need one because its a roller and hopefull the Z axis only moves a few mm's so it will only hit the base or lid if theres a serious failure (although might add them sometime in the future just in case ) The plastic sleeves seem upto the job at the minuite but no doubt will need replacing when they start to get a bit sloppy. Again I supose its a possible mod for the future but at the moment it seems to do the trick nicely. As for the Blender milling, check out my gallely of Si's (firetrappe)'s micro shock flier (also on page 1 of this thread ) ....2mm deep pockets leaving a 1mm skin...been there done that .. (well I dint ...he did ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 Hi Dave, thanks for your patience, hope to get my electronics this week, then I can really get going. One problem though, my Den still isn't finished! Started building last year June! My Phlatprinter is going to be Solar powered, so a bit of inovation will be required there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted May 18, 2009 Author Share Posted May 18, 2009 Nice one ..solar powered Phlatty , cant see that woking well over in the UK somehow...wonder if I can power mine from wind and rain Best of luck with the den !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 Interesting, these new 100W solar panels give nearly 2amps in full overcast! I'm trying to make my entire Den Solar powered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Hi Dave, my DIY electronics finally arrived! Spent the afternoon soldering all the bits together. Wouldn't have taken so long but I have to keep changing glasses! Does everybody do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share Posted May 22, 2009 Im always changing my glasses, usually from Scotch to lager and back again...I find it helps with my concentration. Thers a vid on wiring the steppers up but you'll probably you'll be a dab hand already . The hardest bit i found was getting the parralel card setup. Usually its a walk in the park but mine through a wobbly (bl**dy vista). Got there after a few re-installs..the rest was pretty easy..honest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 Thanks Dave, I've had to set up a few computers for people, from what I've seen of Vista, I HATE IT! XP Pro does it for me, and Linux of course. Where do I find the Phlatprinter skin that Peter liked so much? I find changing glasses too often leads to a 'self inflicted injury' the following morning. Anyway, I didn't think Gordon wanted you to drink, he's put so much tax on it! Oops, way off topic here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted May 23, 2009 Author Share Posted May 23, 2009 lol... I just think of it as being my little contribution back to the country The skin / screenset is the MK2 version and you can download it here or here I think the installion instructions are incorrect on the site ..it should read Find the Mach3 folder under C:\ Copy the (Phlatprinter1024_V2.set) file into your "C:\Mach3\" Copy the (PhlatBitmaps) folder into the "C:\Mach3\Bitmaps folder Replacing old PhlatBitmaps folder Again, a quick browse through the setup vids explains all the buttons but most are failry self explanitory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 Just a quick up date on recent projects on the phlatty. From one of the smallest shockies at 16" span to one of the largest at 6ft span and 18" tall rudder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Jones Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 any more on this amazing machine??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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