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I have done something different using filler to some by the sounds of it.
I wanted a good cosmetic finish on a Phoenix Models Kerfuffle...
I read everything I could find and like at the start of the thread used Polyfilla, (the tub that feels empty), watered it down a bit, scraped it on with a credit card and soon found with a block I could sand it back very very quickly to get a good finish.
With that done I then used sign vinyl to cover the wing, at first it seems to hardly stick, but, making sure it wrapped around and lipped back over itself just a few mm on the hidden trailing edge at the aileron hinges I heat gunned it down.
To be fair, it tightened up very well indeed and has never shown any sign of wrinkling.
For the fuse, I built as per the instructions then veneered the whole body's epp surfaces with thin balsa then used sign vinyl again (just for colour match to the wing). I could have used the same method as the wing, using filler, but this way I didn't have to pay so much attention whilst shaping the fuse's epp - as sins would be covered by the balsa. Had to steam round bends on top front deck and curve behind canopy. Instead of shaping the canopy laboriously I cut it roughly away in two minutes then stuck a modified carbon acrowot canopy on the top.
All together it looks very good, of course it is going to be a bit heavier for it, but not having anything to compare it to, all I can say is that it flies very well and I always enjoy it.
I think with an epp powered model it doesn't really defeat any object of epp in my eye's, as they may be strong as hell as gliders which are very light, but a powered model is heavier and can smash itself up effectively enough, epp or not.
I bought the model cos I simply liked the look of it and knew it would be easy to build.
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  • 1 month later...
Just to add my bit on the Spackle idea...
Yep, the One Shot Filler is the way to go. Gets in between all the little EPP bubbles and fills the gaps. Rubs down in a flash (FINE wet and dry does not rip out the bubbly bits, but keep changing it so it is new and "sharp" or you will drag, not cut). A tip: add thinned PVA not just water then the resultant goo will be that little bit more flexible and will bond nicely to the EPP cells. Then when you bounce your Wildthing into terra (who put that there) firma, the spackle bits will not try to part company wiv the EPP. Next tip.. Try solartex over your EPP nose (no the plane ya fool!) cos it pulls in almost wrinkle free, then treat it to a thin coat of Clearcoat-result beautiful! Does not go brown and green when encountering grass and worse on the sheep grazed bits! And yes, I've built a Stan Yeo "Community Service Special" (Sorry Stan, great model honest) aka a Mayhem. Therapeutic all that wood spar tapering and slot routing. Then spackled it all over (legally of course), sanded it, spackled again, etc. etc. then butt jointed the fibreglass tape (steady hand needed), then Profilmed/Solartexed it, got it looking really nice. I'm convinced they go faster and if you've ever been to a full size glider field before a comp and watched all the floppy hat brigade WAXING their legs, sorry I mean their fuses, you'll know that less drag is good for everyone except SIR Barry Humphries! So Spackle away kiddies!
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PPS... Anuvver tip! If you "ain't bovered" abaht comps and fings, (cos this ain't strictly legal like, know wot ah meen?) you might like to try really slipperying up your EPP by getting some super lightweight glass fibre matt (got mine off an EBay American geezer, cheap as chips and light so not much shipping) then apply it with.... weight for it!... not resin? Nah!... Polyurethane (water based) floor varnish innit? Slippery as jellied eels 'n' raw oysters! Do a search on the ol' Googley site. The yanks are heavily into all this stuff. I finally found a supplier of water based PU floor varnish! One of them posh hardwood block flooring suppliers. Had to buy a gallon (Je m'excuse... cinque litres!) cost me seventy-five knicker, but it'll see me aht, cos a brushful does a whole wing panel and it comes out all fin and light and shiney like ... and... it don't need no rubbin' dahn! And cleaning up? Wot cleaning up? Try it on one of your EPP shucks. It works. A gallon of floor varnish - every club should have one!
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  • 2 weeks later...
Zooot aloress, Moi EPP est totalie non rough now.........ist dead slipperie, danke mainsewer, but, and est une grand but, moi cannot hand launch it no mores as ist keeps falling dans the terra from moi's appennage....

Que??


(useful thread as I'm planning an EPP scale parkflyer!!)


Dave
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  • 8 months later...

Back to the techy stuff now - painting EPP - quick and simple!.

Got fed up with the look of my EPP foam FIK100 Turbo - gaffer tape holding the nose on etc. so bought some 'Belton Special' acrylic car paint from a hardware shop. The jazzy pearl effect colours take to EPP a treat with no preparation. Tested first on a small piece of foam OK and this could be twisted about and the paint remained secure. Did the wing last night, red underside, blue top side, couple of coats and it looks great and though obviously the crude surface finish remains it feels a bit slippier so off to the field this afternoon for a test flight.

Just remember - it must be 'Belton Special'  acrylic as many of the other paints in the range are damaging to EPP I believe.

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This old chestnut lol

I have managed to get hold of som ZIG acrylic poster pens, they have a massive chissel tip but can color a model really well. pens are dear but will last ages.

I have also found an acrylic which goes on really well, and can even be fed through the airbrush the brand is INSCRIBE, available on the good old WorldwideWonderWeb

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