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How to get the spinner off a Typhoon 3D ?


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Yes, this is a stupid question....... I'm very new to the hobby, at least newly returning to the hobby (have introduced myself in the beginners section)
 
Trying to finish off the simple build of my typhoon 3D...... and whilst there may be the odd thing you can skip in the instructions and get away with......... fitting the propellor probably isn't one of them !
 
I can't get the spinner off ! ....... it just say "remove..........fit prob and re-attach spinner. Can't see a screw in it ........ but it's not that keep on pulling off !
 
I don't want to damage the motor or gear box...... can someone enlighten me ?
 
 
many thanks
 
 
Paul
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There are no stupid questions Paul - but you might get stupid answers
Is the spinner already on the prop and not fitted to the model yet then
My guess is that you have one of those funny great long GWS style gearbox output shafts, which the prop unit screws onto. If its the rubbery plasticky type spinner cone, then these just pull off first, and reveal the thrreaded shaft with a nut and washer holding the prop on.
Try unscrewing it.
Post a picture to help us identify the parts, and I am sure you will get a reply.

Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 21/07/2009 17:08:23

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Thankyoiu very kindly for your reply, the spinner is already fitted, need to be removed for the prop to be fitted. Strangely, it reminds me of the exact material that 'red noses' were made of, kind of bendy plastic stuff, there are no screws in it........... but it's damn well stuck on, so I was a bit worried about puling like hell !
 
Paul
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Hi Paul. Is it this one;

If it is.  You have to pinch it and pull.  Sometimes they put a dab of silicone on it when its pushed on.  Great plane, better with a Lipo than Nimah.  hold the prop at the base, pinch and pull spinner.  I had 2 great seasons with mine.  Learnt loads.  If you are using Nimahs, try the 9.6v packs - longer flight times and more power.  CoG slightly reawards and it'll hang prop well.
 
If the props not on yet.  Just pull you won't damage the motor/gearbox.
 
BB
 

Edited By Basildon Biggles on 21/07/2009 17:44:01

Edited By Basildon Biggles on 21/07/2009 17:47:23

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Paul - If that is the plane you have.  Use 'low' rates if your tx has the facility, most do.  Its a lively hack.  The bigger prop is better for initial orientation of its flying style and good for 3D.  Smaller ones better for speed.  Damn is that the time - Off to work
 
 
BB
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Well, I just joined the forum about a couple of hours ago, and I'm really pleased and thankfull to the people that have replied, this certainly a lively forum !
     I've still some questions about setting up the ESC, I'm sure the instructions said that the standard setting for batteries is ni-cad ? (maybe I'm wrong?) and that to set for my Overlander  35C lipoly (1700mah / 11.1v 3S) (and acording to the instructions, avoid fire) is to set for this type of battery using a sequence of transmitter instructions
 
Might sound silly and basic to you guys, but I've never heard of anything like this. The guy that sold me the kit never mentioned this......... but needless to say (and even if I need to take it back to the shop, he did mention that it would be no problem to call back for help in setting up)............ I just don't wish to plug in and cause damage !
 
Paul 
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Plugging in the Lipo wont cause damage, The issue is one of low voltage cut off - LiPo batteries must NOT be discharged below a minimum level, which these days is around 2.8V per cell absolute minimum or even slightly highter. Your ESC has a device called LVC which stops power to the motor ( but not the radio ) when the battery gets low, and if its set as standard for nickel batteries, then his will be too low for the Lipos.
"Programming" the ESC to set it up for this cutoff voltage is done as your friend says with the Tx throttle stick and a series of beeps and dashes and so on, and frankly, if you dont have the manual for that particualr ESC your pretty goosed as its a nightmare of ajob at the best of times.
Some ESCs use a nice easy plug in card to set them up...but again - we need to know the exact model of ESC please.
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Instruction Manual.  Im at work now so am just nicking some PC time before I hit the road Paul
 
 
Follow step 9.  Programming for Lipos is only slightly different from Nimah's.  To enter switch TX on with throttle trim at zero.  Throttle stick at max.  All other trims at neutral.  Restrain the plane just incase.  Switch on plane.  After that just follow the instructions.  After a couple of run throughs I found it very easy to set up.  Brake Off.
 
Throttle stick up  = yes/select
Throttle Stick dowm + no
Whichever you select.  After that selection return the throttle to the middle (ish).  This acts as an interim/waiting for your next input.
Motor timming is already preset.  So no need to alter that one.
For Lipos you need Throttle 'UP' setting.  Infact its the ONLY setting you need to change.
 

Programming Your ESC:

1. To enter the programming mode, the controller must be powered up with the throttle in full position and held there for 5 seconds.

2. When this is done, the ESC will be in the setup mode and will beep three times indicating this.

3. Once in this programming mode, return the throttle to mid-stick within 3 seconds, and the ESC will scroll through the menu.

When in the programming mode, select yes (up) or no (down) as follows:

Yes: Move throttle stick to full for approximately 1 second (controller will beep once), then return to mid-stick.

No: Move throttle stick to low throttle for 1 second (controller will beep once), and then return to mid-stick.

A. Menu Item 1: Voltage Auto Cut-Off

1 beep – auto cut-off

(Need to act within 5 seconds

Li-Po – up

Ni-MH – down (stock setting)

After the setting of this parameter, the controller will wait approximately 3 seconds before moving to next

BB
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again, thanks for your answers ! - I dont have the instructions for the ESC as it's the one fitted as standard to the Typhoon 3D(there are no seperate instuctions) , it does say (and I must check the iinstucctions, I swear that the ones I searched on the net are different) that the standard settings are for Ni-cad and that I must follow the sequence of instructions to set for my Lipoly Overlander  3S battery
 
I don't understand the slightest bit of this yet, but you guys are certainly very kind, and if you guys don't mind I'm gonna stick at this, every bit of advice is 'really' appreciated and I look forward to that bright sunday morning when I do get in the air !
 
Paul
 
also... may I ask, what does "3S" mean ?, and is this the correct way to refer to my Overlander Extreme 35C Lipoly 1700mah 11.1v 3S) ?
 
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Thanks for all your replies, you honestly don't know how much it helps, I've taken in everything that everyones said, and as suggested, the more I keep reading, the more I will learn.
     I'll look at connecting the battery shortly...... and assuming that the one lead which is protruding from the front of the airplane ( from the direction of the speed controller ) is the one that is connected to " Thrott" of the reciever...... and that this lead also provides power to the reciever then I'll be onto the next step !
 
Paul
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Thanks for your message, I did infact get the spinner off but I've been a bit busy at work and the house, I just need to get myself a little time to get the plane finished. I've the speed controller to set up and the servo plugs to shave off so that I can plug what I think are Futaba type plugs into my Spektrum (JR?) type reciever.
    how will I know which way to plug the plugs in ?
 
My next question, will probably be (and I don't have the model right now to look) is where to plug the aileron servos in, as there's only one 'ail' socket....... although, silly me....... models used one servo for ailerons back in my day ! lol , perhaps this needs to be mixed using the radio. Sounds a bit technical to me, but I'll look into it soon
 
cheers
 
Paul.
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