Jump to content

an on/off switch


CHARLES BROWN
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi, I have just read an item in a yank magazine that states an on/off switch is not needed, just make sure the throttle controls are in the off position ( electric models of course) and connect the battery direct to the R/X, I have just tried this in a ben buckle buccaneer and it does work fine, how ever the important thing is to have a damm good memory and make sure the stick and the trim are both in the off position, otherwise you are in deep you know what ! not only will the model go shooting off on its own, but you might just upset some one on the same frequency coming in for a landing which we know is a big NO NO.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


You won't shoot someone down by switching on an Rx on the same frequency, but he has the opportunity to send your model careering through the pits. As long as the model is well restrained(pit man, tie-down, WHY) you shouldn't have a problem.

The other point about checking the throttle position is rarely valid, every ESC I have operated has a failsafe system whereby it detects if the throttle is closed, if it isnt the ESC won't power the motor, but I am aware that some out there don't have this
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Charles

what was the exact wording in this american magazine?

Your description is a little ambiguous;

"connect the battery direct to the R/X"

Is this in reference to an electric model with separate RX and flight battery packs, or a model that uses one battery and has a speed control with BEC?

"make sure the stick and the trim are both in the off position, otherwise you might just upset some one on the same frequency coming in for a landing"

If someone else is flying on the same frequency, the position of your stick and trim is irrelevant as your transmitter will be switched off.

If the article is alluding to the relatively common practice of not having a switch on a speed control, but rather relying on connecting/disconnecting the flight pack to switch it on/off, then yes, the BEC supply from the speed control stays plugged in to the rx at all times, and a switch is effectively redundant, but the flight pack should absolutely NOT be left connected while someone else is flying on the same frequency.

If you're referring to electric models with a separate battery pack for the RX, then you could perhaps get away with leaving it plugged in (and on) while someone else is flying (but with the flight pack DISCONNECTED) but;

- if they are using very different throws on their control surfaces/servos, one or all of your servos could stall, as a result of trying to move the control surfaces beyond the physical limits of their travel. This will drain your RX battery very quickly. In an extreme situation it could also bend/break a pushrod/snake or loosen a servo in its mountings. All of this is not good...

Similarly, the flight pack should abolutely NOT be left connected while someone else is flying on the same frequency, and should be disconnected/deactivated BEFORE you switch off your TX.

An electric model with a high-powered brushless motor on the front, a 12" prop, and 300W+ power system is comparable (IMHO) to a brush-cutter (like a strimmer but with metal blades not unlike a prop) and should be treated with similar respect, and not left lying around switched on. Fingers are important for keeping track of how many pints you'rve had and who's round it is next.

Safety is no accident

AlistairT
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do not have a on/off switch,my ESC is set up by having full throttle setting on connecting then after a set number of beeps (1-15 depending on how you need to set up for your motor/battery pack) you reduce to fully to low throttle then the ESC is armed and ready to go.
I have my model raised up on a stand well clear of the floor it stays in the stand until I am happy with the set up then I handle it with care and keep well clear of the prop with the minimum time from the stand to flight. after landing I keep the throttle off with thumb on stick and disconnect the power before I move the model.
I also have 2.4 Futaba eliminating the problem of somebody on the same frequency.

Kelvin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of my smaller ESC's are switch free (up to 18 amp). Jetsome, I agree, a switch on these would be a pain.

The 30 - 40 amp brushed and brushless ones, however, have switches. Personally I plan to use only switched ESC's for the more powerful (200W plus) setups. I like my fingers; I don't like props whizzing round unexpectedly.


AlistairT
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...