MooSey Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Im restoring an old 1980's slope glider and have now got to the wings.They're foam cored balsa sheet covered. i've stripped off the old profilm and they're in reasonably good nick.Im unsure how to finish them though.My initial method was going to be dope and tissue to restore a bit of strength back into them followed up by coats of primer and gloss to give a good smooth finish.I did wonder though if this would be slightly heavy and how well the paint finish would fare over time with flexing and crashes.So then i thought about using profilm for a clean light and flexible job.trouble is I've never used profilm before and might make a messy job trying to get the film to shrink neatly around the bevelled wingtips. I have'nt got a hot iron but do have a heat gun.Whilst Im confident I can make a really good job of the dope/tissue/paint im unsure as to whether the profilm is a better covering but a job im not sure i can finish well!!Any suggestions gratefully accepted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Mike I'm wondering what Profilm was like in the 80's but I bet it's improved .I ve used most of the latest covering materials over the last 2 years & being a dyed in the wool tissue & dope man especially (no fuel proofing)on gliders I would be tempted to use solartex for strength (if you want strength) or my favourite --Nylon & dope .Probably the heaviest but definately the toughest & easiest to repair EVEN on the field.Hope this might help Myron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Taylor Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Mikeif they're foam cored, dope might melt the foam inside.I'll rephrase that....Dope eats foam, and it will eat the foam in your wings if it soaks through to the foam. If it doesn't soak through....you're ok...but I would imagine that the veneer on your foam wings is not too thick.You could use polyeurothane varnish - this is cheaper and shouldn't eat foam.AlistairT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooSey Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 They're sheet balsa covered. will the dope go thru that?Im off to the model shop now to see how much glosstex is ask the gaffers advice.Im not sure I want to buy a heat iron though :(Since there is old remnants of film on the wing which I can't sand off (sheet balsa too thin) could I use sand seal mixed with talc?I have sand seal but not varnish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Taylor Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 You can use an old clothes iron (just make sure it is old!).Old remnants of film could be removed with the sticky side of duct tape, plus a little heat, or possibly wiped off with a cloth dampened with cellulose thinners (which also eats foam, so don't use too much).AlistairT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 If the model dates back to the 80's chances are it was covered in Solarfilm.As to tissue and dope you can seal the wing with a couple of coats of emulsion paint and dope over that.I would sugest profilm, I understand your concerns around not being very good at 'profilming' but you have to start somewhere, and it has the adventage of being removed without leaving the colour behind.Which ever method you choose, make sure the wing is sanded and filled as no covering material will cover up poor prep.Have you thought of tissue or glass cloth and polyC, a water based varnish?A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooSey Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 I purchased some film today. forget which one it was! nearly 7 quid a metre!!!was the glossy thicker stuff which is apparently easier to apply and more durable. (or was the shop keeper just out for my money....)I also got an iron. I decided that since i was dope and tissuing the fus, followed up by primer and a gloss spray coat i should learn a different covering method for the wings.Im still filling and sanding the wings but have now started tissuing the fus. very theraputic!this renovation is costing a lot though. I could have got a nice modern sloper and been out for those first flights by now....but then i would have missed on the enjoyment im getting from this build :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Couldn't agree more .You can't put a price on what you've created can you .I never regret the day I got a proper heat gun So much more controllable than that bulky old iron of 'er indoors !I'm dreading buying several sheets of Solartex tomorrow I'll just have to stop squandering money on luxuries like food for example!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Sorry --I meant Iron not Gun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastflyer Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 I am using a travel iron from argos, cost about £7.00. It does a great job. The shoe is about 1/4 of the area of a normal iron, it has a non stick sole. Its also got a steam function (never used that bit) and most importantly "the wife doesent complain" except to wonder why I dont do clothes!!.I did some experiments on some scrap film to get the temperature settings right and marked these on the setting knob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Thomson Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 To clean the sole of the iron use surgical spirit from the chemist , it works a treat.Regards ,Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooSey Posted July 21, 2007 Author Share Posted July 21, 2007 Got one wing done.Hard innit?I found the double curvature of wing tips difficult. Practice makes perfect though so the other wing will be better!P.S.Bubbles! I gather because the wing is old, not originally built well etc it allows air back under the iron trapping bubbles.Whats the best way to rid these?Since fuel will never go near it I've just pricked them and reheated then smoothed over with a cloth.Im thinking next time I might glass fibre. Is it possible to use profilm type coverings and get a perfect non crease non bubble finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Freullet Posted July 22, 2007 Share Posted July 22, 2007 Are there any good books on model covering & finishing methods? cos I would like to try methods other than iron on films, great that they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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