Harmony build blog

[Peter Miller]

Follow the instructions. Lay down all the lower sheet and cap strips and build the wing on them,  Pin down the Root and then use the wedges to prop the wing up so that it has a twist in it with the 1 degree wedge in the midle and the 2 degree wedge under the outer rib. Then add all the top sheeting and cap strips. THis will lock the twist in place. Then build the second wing onto the first as shown in the same way.

 

I used Supertec Mini servos. These are available from any J.Perkins stockist. The MiniL servos are the same buta bit smaller.

 

 You can buy very good metal geared servos on Ebay. Storm Trade is one good seller. I have used the 14 gram metal geared servos and even the 9 gram metal geared servos in my latest plan The Tailwind in the August RCM&E.

[Jimbo565]

Tony,

I have used HS81 servos for a long time now and never had a gear strip,I have three standard sevos in mine and two 81s in the wing with no problems.

You have to make the washout wedges as per plan and then slide them in where indicated on the plan , this then creates the desired washout by raising the trailing edge of the wing.

 

Jim

[Jimbo565]

Peter,

beaten at the post by 3 mins.

 

JIm

[Tony H]

Thanks guys you've been a big help.

 

This plane was exactly what I have been looking for, I like something that I know how it has been built so I can fix it easily at minimal cost if it gets damaged, plus it looks great and will fit in my car with the wings attached, Keep up the good work Peter!

[Peter Miller]

Jim

 

You explained it better than I did. Well done!

 

IT s a nice model, enjoy!

 

How right, If you build it you can repair it, so much better/cheaper than buying another Chinese Take away.

[ntsmith]

Have started building this model. Well, nearly completed. Isn,t  a 25 rather large for this. Seems as though I will have a flying misile. Still, ordered and paid for and fitted now so it should be fun.

I hate Peter Miller I have to avoid looking at his designs else I have yet another model to build. Worse than DB if you ask me and almost as prolific. - only joking Peter, if you read this.

[Peter Miller]

I designed it round a .18 to .20. It will be faster with a .25 but perhaps not as much faster as one might expect.

 

Remember that to double the speed of an aircraft you need four times the power. a ei.400% a .25 is only  about 25% more powerful.

 

I like people like you ntsmith. It means that I can keep getting my plans published.

 

And, apart from a few designs some years ago, I build all my own prototypes, this does slow my production down.

 

The last model that I designed and allowed someone else to build and for which I provided the materials took the modeller 3 years to finish. I was getting extremely sarcastic by the end.

 

At the moment I have three plans on file awaiting publications with various magazines.

[ntsmith]

I have had one for years so I can vouch for its longevity - ande its very much needed for those 8g U/C legs used on the Harmony. As it stated in the article they sure will not pull out like many arfs do  

Posted by Peter Miller on 24/12/2009 08:53:43:

THis is very similar to the one that I have. It does seem a little pricy but will last for years.

 

http://www.ncsl.co.uk/wirebender/

 

IT will have to be screwed down to a bench. Allow plenty of room for long ends of wire to flail around.

 

[Barry Urry]

Has anybody out there done an electric version of the Harmony?  I am building one (I love it, by the way . . . kinda reminds me of a Mk IX Spit) and would like to make it electric.  I love the nitro engines . . . the sound, the grease, the smell, but I would like to try this one as an electric so that I can fly it in the park by my home.

[Peter Miller]

I think that one of the earlier ones in this thread was being built for electric. There are some pictures of a separate hatch. Don't know how that one is progressing