Peter Wood 4

Phil. Took your advice and ordered from Callie Graphics. Arrived today. Excellent. PS good to put a face to your name from the Long Mynd report in RCME. Will now be able to identify you at the Great Orme.

Gents. Thanks for the helpful replies. I have contacted the suppliers and hopefully will have a set in time for the fly-in.

Having completed the build of my Hurricane I put off purchasing the expensive decals until after a test flight. Well that went well two days ago but now I find that the Pyramid Models website is unavailable. Can someone help or will I have to fly an unidentified 1940 Hurri?

Trevor. I filled my spinner with lead and made it removable by glueing an M8 bolt through the front of the battery box and fitting a matching bolt to the spinner backplate. I also used the magnetic switch from Hyperflight which works well and is quite discreet.

Thanks Stephen. I think I will also go for top hinged ailerons and inverted servos like you.

Posted by Stephen Bowdler on 26/04/2018 12:50:00: I will mount my servos in the wing - between R4 and R5. I have bought a pair of MKS6100 servos and the matching Integrated Drive System so the whole servo / linkage / horn will be inside the wing. Maximum height is around 16mm. Stephen. I have also bought a set for my build. However on closer study of the few published installation guides I get the impression that they will only work with bottom hinged ailerons. Am I right? Peter

Interesting figures Peter. Your Irvine 53 seems to be more economic than the OS table would suggest.   I have an Irvine 53 in a Wot 4 and have often noticed how little fuel it seems to use. Could it be that some engines are inherently more economic than others of a similar size?   Now I appreciate that fuel consumption will be affected by factors such as prop size and airframe drag but it would be interesting to see some factual data.   Perhaps WOO could write an article on the subject.   Peter @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Thanks David. Contacted Gliders and am now making progress.@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Does anyone know how to get in touch with Tangent Modeltechnik, the manufacturers of the Electromaster. Their website redirects enquiries to the Graupner site which in turn asks you to search for their agent, which in then returns 'non found'!@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Posted by Tim Mackey - Administrator on 21/06/2011 17:49:24: Yes, if they have been bound as single units. If bound as a twin, and satellite is missing, they dont like it Tim. Does the reverse hold true ie if you bind with only one Rx rhen add the satellite it doesn't work? I have an AR6200 which has only half the range with the satellite connected?   Peter @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

There is a product called Skin so Soft from Avon which works amazingly in repelling midges. You can get it in all sorts of outlets in Scotland and from Amazon. Not sure if it works against horse flies but I can vouch for its effectiveness against the predatory Scottish midge! Down side is that it was originally intended as a ladies after shower spray - could lose some street cred if your mates find out! @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Thanks Fly Boy and Biggles for your comprehensive reply.   I have just measured the current incidences.   Using the top longeron as datum 0 ie setting the fuselage level along this longeron I get   Stabiliser +2 1/2 degrees Top Wing +4 1/2 degrees Bottom Wing + 5 1/2 degrees Engine 0   The stabiliser is obviously intended to be at this angle relative to the fuselage datum, as the tail is seated on a wedge. I assume therefore that the model is designed to fly slightly nose down giving some engine down thrust.   So with the tail at 0 degrees the incidences become Top wing +2 degrees Bottom wing +3 degrees Engine 2 1/2 degrees downthrust   These figures don't seem too far from your suggestions for a plane with engine downthrust. I will probably stick with them, particularly since I don't envisage flying it inverted for extended periods.   Peter       @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

I have nearly completed the airframe of a Precedent Stampe which I purchased with the fuselage and cabanes already built. Before covering I want to check that everything is correctly aligned.   Does anybody know what the incidence of the wings and tailplane ought to be? They do not appear on the plans. @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Try Fibretech. They are at most of the shows and very helpful   http://www.fibretechgb.com/index.html

David   David. Timbos explanation is spot-on in that the Offset moves the mid point of any channel. The problem, at least on the JR PCM9X, is that adjusting the offset just shows a figure between -200 and +200 which is not much help in deciding on the correct value to use. However assuming you are on the mix programming screen you will see in the top left hand corner the following  [PROG MIX 5} >1 followed by two horizobntal bars one of which is highlighted. If you now move the control stick the highlight will change at the current mid point. Now hold the stick at the position you want to be the new mid point whilst changing the value of the Offset until the highlighted bar changes. This will be your new mid point. I find this very useful for disarming my electric models. I choose an appropriate switched mix eg 5, set the offset at the throttle shut position ( about -170 on my Tx) and then mix in -100% to the 'safe' switch position.  Now if the switch is in the safe position and I inadvertantly knock the throttle lever nothing happens. Not sure about Futaba etc but probably the same principal.    

Timbo Impressed with the test rig and can just about work out what is going on. However I am puzzled by the lump of what looks like insulation foam behind the motor mount or is it a lump of wood?

I agree that tissue/nylon and dope followed by sanding sealer is a great way to prepare a wooden surface for painting. BUT you then have to be very careful about the choice of paints. Either you stick with celluse based paints and a suitable fuel proofer such as Tuf cote or you use  a different paint type and avoid cellulose paint like the plague afterwards. That includes paints thinned with cellulose thinners otherwise you will end up with orange peel texture. For example I spent a long time preparing a balsa wing with tissue and dope before a fancy spray paint job with Halford car paints. Beautiful. Then I fuelproofed it all with sprayed on Tufcote thinned with cellose thinners. Disaster!! After several such disasters I find paint matching just too confusing and stick to film most of the time.

When I retired and gave up my company Volvo estate a friend recommended a Mondeo. Best advice I have had in years. Solid, reliable, comfortable, 40 mph on the motorways ( if I keep below 70) and best of all I can get a 56'' span model in without taking the wing off plus sevral smaller planes packed around . 90'' wings fit comfortably over the front passenger seat.

Timbo   I have Real Flight 3.5 and find it quite frustrating as I try to practice the B test. If you keep the ground in view the model quickly becomes to small to judge orientation and in any case I find it difficult judge wher the model is in relation to the centre line and main flight line. I have been looking at the Demo for Phoenix and it appears to have a much broader field of view whilst keeping the model a sensible size. It also has a Wot 4 Classic in the model range ( my practice model). Do you think it is better in these respects than Real Flight?   PS It was a pleasure to meet you at St Bees for the Copeland Open Day. I ended up with two Crevello slopers and an electric version as a result of that outing. Great fun.   Peter

Simon The Precedent Stampe kit dates back about 20 to 30 years and is certainly not a beginners model. Bu todays standards the instructions are rudimentay and you can spend as much time studying the plan to work out the build sequence as you do actually sticking wood together. Still thats half the fun and it is certainly satisying when the model is complete - much more than an ARTF. Good luck with the build and have fun.

Hi All   Having flown my Pioneer this weekend after a protracted cosmetic repair I was reminded to look at the this thread. The following comments may be of help, particularly regarding the u/c. As you can see from the photo I posted I fitted mine with the suspension / dampers designed by Garry Hallam. The main legs were as per plan using 10g wire and secured to the fuselage with saddle clamps. This proved to be a problem. The initial take offs were fairly exciting until I learned to get the tail up as fast as possible and to feed the throttle in very gently. However after a few flights the plane began to swing unprdictably on takeoff. If I corrected with rudder then the plane would roll very rapidly in the opposite direction as soon as the wheels left the ground often resulting in a cartwheel. Eventuallly I realised that the saddle clamps had come loose and the u/c was slipping to one side causing the swing. Of course the rudder is so powerful that as soon as the drag from the wheels was released the plane rolled rapidly in the opposite direction. I soldered brass tubing on the wire under the clamps to give more purchase but it was not really succesful possibly because they are in line with the oily exhaust. Last Sunday I resorted to hand launching but a spluttering enginde resulted in a heavy landing which severly damaged the u/c. When I get around to rebuilding it I will have to find a way of controlling sideways movement, possibly by fixing it to the fuselage with brass plates soldered to the wire.   Regarding the flying characteristics it is much as Chris described. The ailerons are very weak and induce a lot of yaw. Differnetial helps but the best solution is coordinated rudder. In fact the rudder is so strong that the plane can be flown on it withoput the ailerons if you are gentle. The elevator is OK but the biggest issue is the motor. Mine is overpowered with an OS50 and puts its noe up very strongly under power. Mixing down elevator helps but you then have to be careful not to open the throttle suddenly or the nose will go down before speed increases and it rises again. Another curious feature is the fact that the rudder and elevator become less effective under full power. I guess the plane adopts such a nose up attitude that the big wing with the flaps deployed masks the tailplane.   HOWEVER once you get used to it and find a comfortable cruise setting it looks superb and low slow scalelike passes along the strip always result in admiring comments.

For the club learners

Yes Please

me too!