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philfly

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Everything posted by philfly

  1. I haven't flown the MX2 but have been around a few people that have. The model is a great flyer and very aerobatic, the only negative thing was the undercarriage would fall off at the thought of a landing. If you go for it i would recomend fitting the landing gear from the Multiplex Acromaster, it is available as spares and is very strong
  2. Was this the RR spit? I worked at hucknall RR and the wreckage was kept in a small building on the hard standing. The guys looking after the current spit allowed me in to see the airframe and there was not a lot left in all honesty. The rebuild will use some smaller components and the majority of the wing but other than that the it will be mainly the registration that is original. It was quite chilling to see the wreckage and on entering the building there was a very odd atmosphere
  3. That's exactly what i need, thanks guys. Off to the copy shop
  4. I have been given a super60 airframe but the vertical stab and rudder are missing and dont appear to have ever been fitted! I was wondering if anyone could help me obtain a copy of the tail area of the plan as i dont have the original? The model will be powered by a traditional diesel motor, and will join my rebuilt electrified junior 60
  5. top wing looks like an ulimate but the bottom wing is straight! no idea
  6. I too am at a similar stageto you mystar, rudder, elevator and right outer wing completed, I havent started the centre wing as i am unsure about which retracts to go with?   Im sure my build will take a lot longer as this is a longer term project over winter, looking good so far easyjetrider
  7. Cheers guys thats why i asked, i knew someone would have come up with a dodge
  8. I was talking to a guy at work the other day about electronics when he showed me his latest project. The thing that he had 'knocked up' was a 5 channel single cell lipo charger, which i thought would be ideal for indoor flyers?   The unit can simulataneously charge 5 lipo's from 75mAh to 150mAh (This range is selected per channel with a swith and can be tuned at the design stage for different currents)   It charges in 3 stages using constant current, constant voltage and then trickle charge (no overheat protection)   It can run on an input voltage from Vout+1.5v to 36v! my thought was to include a high capacity lipo which could be charged at home, which would then be enough for lots of charging at an indoor meet for upto 5 cells at a time.   Costs would be around £25-35 without the lipo's would anyone be interested in such a device?
  9. Looking very nice stephan im watching. That exhaust duct looks like a major operation is it part of the kit or a mod?
  10. I managed to upload the pic. If you hinge the top skin this method should work but you may need to play with the angles Edited By philfly on 13/01/2011 12:41:27
  11. How about a double hinge Barry? i mean a hinge that pivots through 3 points, i drew it but cant seem to browse for the file
  12. Cheers Scot. The Lado stuff looks good and they have them for the sea fury. What oleo's/legs did you use with these? I will have a look at the century jets stuff Danny
  13. I have recently purchased the topflite sea fury (xmas present to myself) I am looking for retracts for it, i know that the web site lists Robart and century Jets versions but does anyone have experience of the best place to get these in the uk or suitable alternatives? Are there any of the new servoless electric type that would be up to the job of supporting a 14lb model? Any advice would be appreciated
  14. All critism is gratefully accepted. This post was just to help others learn from my mistakes before something serious happens, models can be replaced.
  15. I am writing this after a bit of a shock. My beloved 55”Overlander Extra has just disappeared in a ball of flames. After fitting a brand new receiver, due to some radio interference problems I decided to put my battery on charge. The battery had only done two circuits before I had to land due to the problems. I left the 3000mAh 5c battery in the airframe and set up the charger, and here is where it all went wrong. I had been distracted somewhat after a fall out with the other half and inadvertently set the charger to 6cell rather than 5. The ‘intelligent ‘ Sigma EQ had no issue with this and charging commenced, balance charging was not carried out due to the position of the lead. After about 35mins I heard noises coming from the next room. I looked in the mirror and the image seemed distorted. I jumped up to find my battery ballooned to twice its size! The distortion was the fumes from the venting cell! I ripped out the charging leads and carried the model quickly outside, I ran into the house to get something to quench the pack when it exploded and  burst into flames quickly destroying the model the battery, the hacker A40L motor and all the other electronics including the brand new receiver. I am only grateful that I didn’t leave the house or I would have come home to ashes! As for charging in the airframe, that is a double edged sword, yes I lost the model but I couldn’t have removed the battery from the house without the airframe t hold onto. Lessons learned 1, Do not charge in the house 2, Buy a Lipo safe bag 3, Never leave batteries unattended whilst charging 4, Buy a fire extinguisher 5, Pay more attention to what Im doing and don’t get complacent What I don’t understand is why the charger continued charging at the wrong voltage? Perhaps the voltage left in the pack was enough to fool the charger into believing it was charging a flat 6 cell instead of a partially charged 5cell? Edited By philfly on 20/03/2010 18:16:40
  16. Any news Tony? how are things going?
  17. How about 4 2s batteries? That would give you 8s and can be distributed around the fuz Connecting all up would be a nightmare but they could be connected permanantly into pairs, then leaving a y lead to connect the '4s' packs together?Edited By philfly on 07/01/2010 12:52:40
  18. Tim i have been reading your blog with interest, you must be tearing your hair out! Anyway i was wondering is it the fact that the lower wing dihedral is incorrect that has caused all of the aparent problems with the cabane strutts missalignments?   It would be agonising if you sort the lower wing only to discover the cabanes where correct in the first place
  19. Thanks for the reply guys that was my thoughts exactly. I also reinforced the undercarriage in a similar way, just a fillet of epoxy around the plate and no problems since, and had a very hard landing when the canopy came off in flight again, dispite being screwed as well as the magnets and then whenn my speed controller melted
  20. David you touched on something that i myself have been trying to find out. You commented that a model must be flown in and not just motor cut and glide.   I am currently flying an overlander 55" extra260. A fantastic model but as seems to be the norm the undercarriage mont broke after a relatively soft landing on a smooth field. The mounting plate itself broke in half, an easy repair and i was using a 5s pack in place of a 4s (recomended), i also had the canopy come away in flight, but the instructions specifically mention not to rely on the magnet and include a screw fixing (which i had forgotten to secure)   Anyway my point is this. This model lands very quickly using the cut and glide method. You would never intentionally land a glow powered aircraft without the engine running, in fact Dead stick can be a worrying proposition, yet we land heavy electric models with no propellor running to slow us down. You wouldn't drive your car down a steep incline without being in gear would you?   So what is the correct method of landing my extra? do i have on some power? opinions please. PS i know this is off topic, feel free to move it, Edited By philfly on 09/07/2009 15:45:29
  21. Timbo i dont seem to be able to see the pictures in your post?
  22. All i have at the moment is 3 views. Most detail is shown apart from the wing ribs. Do you use scale wing forms or a favourite standard airfoil section?
  23. Hey Glenn. I am i new returnee to the hobby and i have followed this thread from the begining. I am really interested in looking into new materials and as yourself funds are not unlimited. the finish you acheived with depron has inspired me to try this stuff out. i am looking at building a mosquito and just like the original aircraft, it will be built from a new innovative material, a fitting tribute i feel. The crutch method you have used for your models seems equally as usefull for the aircraft. I haven't built for a while but will take phot's and possibly produce a blog if things go well. I hope i can rely on you for support and advice during the build? Thanks for some insperational reading and well done. Phil
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