Jeff-C

I have a query about MINIMUM voltage of a cell. I know that it is 3v before damage, but is that 3volts loaded or unloaded.   Here is my example.   1000mah battery operating at 20C.   1 amp per hour x 20C = 20 amps max 1 amp per hour / 20amp output = 3 mins   So in theory, if I am running my battery pack at full power, for 3 mins at 20 amps, I should have exhausted the pack. Obviously I don't want to do that. I have been running my pack in my parkjet, and which pulls 15amps at full power. So I guessed that if i fly generally, I can achieve 5 mins happily with no damage to the cells.   After 6 mins mixed flying, but never over 3/4 throttle, I landed the plane and had 4v left in all cells, (having charged them to 4.2v full). My point is, when I checked the voltage at that point under load, the pack came down to 3.5v per cell.   Am I working things out wrong, or am i just flying my parkjet like a girl and not using as much juice as I think I am??      

Well, I have started to convert all my models to 2.4. I have found the module slid perfectly into my FF8, and that the receivers are of pretty good standard.  I have the first version, (not the telemetry), and so far, of my 6 receivers, I have had only one 4 channel mini receiver that occasionally suffered from a little bit of "fuzzyness", and the moment I have no idea if it is the receiver, or some other factor, but it only started doing it in my parkflyer after running 5 consecutive batteries through it! So, in my opinion, they are very good. And if that isn't enough, they are also now making Futaba compatible 2.4 receivers. A company that isn't confident in it's own standalone equipment surely isn't going to go after a major company!?   

I am in the middle of doing my garage at the moment too.  I am currently using the eaves and beams running the length of the garage to support over head racking and rest the models on there. Also, it is possible to put different shaped hooks and supports for different size models. Strangely enough, the best place I found for the different types of hooks and little support bits and bobs was a 'cheap' shop. One of those £-stretcher and the like. I can try and get some pictures up at some point soon if that would be helpful? 

Hello there the writers and editors of this fine magazine.   I was having a little flick through my April issue and was very much looking forward to the 'Cyril Car' Supermarine Stranraer' Pro-Plan.   Now, am I being totally stupid, or does the preview of May's issue say that we shall be enjoying the 'Red Ned'?    I hope that I am not going completely Mad!?    

I guess it depends on which way you wind up the rubber band inside?

Looks pretty good. I have bought a few small west wings models, and I am hoping to RC them. I have the Spitfire and the  Hurricane in 1/24. I am going to start them in the next few weeks as I want to get a few ideas of the RC and motor I will be able to fit.  I had thought of butchering an old Kyosho Minium for its parts, but I am not sure if the servos and circuitry is all fixed together as a one piece unit, or they can be disconnected and modified a bit without the need for precision soldering.    Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks Timbo.   Now all I need to do is find out how to balance the rotor blades, and then learn how to fly the thing!! 

I know it is a long time since this treat was active, but can I just ask something with regards to the positioning of the receiver itself.  I have just got my first 2.4 receiver, and the only place I can locate it in my heli is sitting on top of the ESC. Is this going to cause any problems as long as I have the aerial tips not touching any metal?   Thank you! 

Thank you guys for all the help. This is slowly turning into a project that might have been easier to build from scratch. I have taken all the skins off and have strenghtened the firewall. Next up is to find a way of mounting the engine on the thrust-line as so the fibreglass cowl can fit ove rit. Then mount the tank, (the easy part). The slight problem i have at the moment is to strangthen the undercarriage. I was told that covering the area in glass fibre or carbon fibre would do the job of making the whole front end of the airframe stronger and ridged. Any thoughts?

With regards to Servos. I have been looking at what I should put in. I know that it is designed to take Micro servo's for the ailerons, (one each side), so I was thinking of BRC's HT 9g as they are the right size to fit into the wings, and then some standard Futaba s3003 for the the Rudder and Elevator. Not sure what to put in for the throttle yet. Does that sound like a sensible set up, or would it be possible to use BRC's all round as the manufacturer intended Micro's for everything?    

Thats pretty much what i gathered about the firewall, and I thought that making the area between F1 anf F2 a bit more substantial would be a good idea too like Terry said.   Thanks for your imput. Every idea and thought helps. Please let me know if you think of anything else.  

  Hello there!   So, I have a CAP 232-300. Electric ARTF from Dyanam models.   It is a well made pre covered laser cut wood model. It is designed for electric, however with no advice on what motor and the like to use, sooooo, i have decided to convert it to IC as I have a small 0.15 glow knocking about.   Now have been looking about on threads, and on RCM&E design it yourself feature, and I have come to the conclusion that with the following spec:-   Span - 36.2in Wing Area - 297.6sqin Weight - 600g/21.2oz (no motor) Wing Loading - 31.25g/dmsq   I think that a little 0.15 should be able to pull it along.   So, what to look out for when converting. Well by the looks of the motor mount, this is 3 sheet ply, and has holes all around it to lighten the load. I am guessing I will need to beef this up a little as it looks ok, but might not take to many vibrations or "positive" landings.   Anything else someone can suggest?   Thanks for your time. Picture to follow very soon!   Jeff Edited By Jeffrey Croot on 22/03/2009 17:39:18

Yes thank you.   So basically, looking at a few bits and bobs on here, PPM is just the normal way that TX talk to RX on 35mhz FM. PCM is basically the same thing, but if you have a PCM reciever, it allows you to programme the TX and RX that if the signal is lost, the "motion" device fail safe cuts in and stops the prop via cutting motor/engine, and tells servos to return to a a designated position?   CCPM is nothing to do with modulations, it is just a setting in the tranmitter that allows you to have Heli set up, which I have hidden somewhere in all those "HELISWH" settings.   So my final question then is refering to the "1024" bit that Futaba have written all over the tranmitter and box. Obviously making a big deal about it.

Thank you for having a look at this tread.   As you can see by the title, I am slightly confused by all the different modulations, and what the different applications for each one are.   A little back ground.   I currently have an old Futaba Field Force 8. Excellent controller. More functions you can shack a stick at, well at least for me at the moment anyhow! I have a small selection of models, which are getting bigger. A mixture of i.c and electric, and all with their own memory on my controller. This is when i first noticed PPM and PCM selections on my transmitter but didn't really think much of it.   I have recently aquired a model Heli. An Electric Twister Storm 3D. Not that i have any real idea about flying Helis, but looking at the instruction manual it stated that I need a CCPM controller. My FF8 has PCM and PPM, a Glider, Acro, and Heli settings in it, but no CCPM. It then adds to the confusion by mixing in HELISWH1 HELISWH2 HELISWH4 HELISR-3 HELISN-3 However, not at any point in the manual does it explain what all these later options are.   So finally to my question. What is the difference between them all. Can I set up my Heli  in either PPM or PCM, or is it a nice new transmitter for me?  

WOT!!?? You can do these online!? Well, first time for everything. So I should give it ago. All these months reading and enjoying the site.....I knew I should have joined sooner! Better late then never!