Hamish

Thanks for the advise.  I will just need to bite the bullet and accept this loss of fuel.  Could I fit a catch tank?

Thanks for the drawing Rob.  It now dawns on why fuel is spilling out of my model when carrying it nose down.  If I could take the vent pipe to the rear end of the tank this would stop this although to be honest it is not a major problem. Edit This solution would also prevent the loss ,as suggested by Simon. As a tight fist'ed Scot,  the loss of any fuel is of major concern

Run my OS 4 stroke with no pressurisation.  The line that would normally go to the exhaust is left open in the engine bay. Initial start I pressurise by a short length of tube to the vent pipe.  Once it has run for a while it will start without pressurisation. Its an old engine and its the easiest engine I have for starting and the best for reliability

Jim You make the wing ribs yourself as they are different for each model.  The plan will show the rib you need to copy.  You put the plan face down on  balsa and apply a hot iron to the back of the plan  Ink will transfer to the balsa and you now have a copy to cut out and replicate Not sure what you mean by former kits Hope this answers your question

Do a search on this site for mode and you will find a lot of info. Your Planemaster controller will work the FMS software

You can download a free programme, just Google   fms, it has hundreds of models. It is quite a basic simulator and you a right they are not as good real thing. I have spent hours on this simulator and at least I have trainer my finger reactions.  What you will find on the real thing is that they will fall out of the sky very quickly when the sim is forgiving. I found it has paid great benefits

Having fun with my Magnittila today and after last landing decided I was attempting to come in too slowly.  Made the approach and slowly came down.  It was then too slow and dropped the last couple of feet to the deck with no damage. Spoke to an experienced flier who confirmed my thoughts and said that I should be flying  in under throttle control and flaring at the last moment.  Will try this tomorrow.  Problem was it was a bit of a wind and it just did not want to come down. Had it virtually stationary at about thirty feet so had some leeway to pull out. As has been said before what a buzz. Roll on tomorrow

I am a novice and found that simple adjusting in the control panel was a lot easier and more accurate than fiddling about with clips and small screws. It takes all types with different preferences and whichever suits your abilities is  the avenue you should follow. I do find that you can get a pile of conflicting advise from individuals who appear to have miles of experience.  I have found trial and error an avenue that has suited me.  

I use 1 and 6.  It means you can fine tune the trim to each aileron, at least on my transmitter. What radio gear are you using?

Agreed Eric, hopefully the SE5a will be as slow as I have seen them fly.  Easy to programme in the FF7 I have and only a switch to put on or off which is the advantage of fitting two servos into separate channels Tried them on my Magnittila and it is so slow that did not appear to make much difference, mind you the throws are well down.  As it is so slow considering marking a square on the runway and see if I can do precision landings into the square.  Will reduce size of square to make it more difficult. Great to potter with other things and not just cutting my fingers of or getting high sniffing glue.

I have a 15 year old Flair SE5a, that is yet to be completed and my new years resolution is do this by the Spring. Building drawings show for a single central servo on the lower wing with push rods to the between lower and upper wing ailerons.  This would have been designed when small servos were not available.  Instead of the central servo I intend to fit two micro servos in the wing and do away with all the bell cranks etc.  I will use a separate channel for each servo which allows software fine tuning of trims (can also use them as flaperons - new to this and this sounds good as though I no what I am talking about)  Advise is sought on what servo to fit. Sorry to highjack but info might help you Geoffrey if you go this way

Great to hear that and I can assure you that it will come easier. Again good luck for Thursday and keep us posted

Well lets hope you have a day like today, absolutely very little wind making it so easy to fly in.  Had my Magnattila up for about six flights.  It was way down at about 1/4 throttle and just swanned about the sky ignoring all the busy bees buzzing about, hither and tither There is something about a 4 stroke in this type of model that make it a joy to watch and listen to. Good luck for Thursday and the weather  looks good up here and hope you get the same

A bit OTT Eric I will agree that there does not appear to be sufficient through air.  Being constructive, this can be achieved by bringing the cowl forwards a few mm and/or alternatively increasing the area at the exhaust.. Does an engine get that hot that it melts a crock clip, supplied for the purpose?? Yes the ally plates would have looked better if the had trimmed neater.  Fall apart? no chance, unless you have little faith in nyloc nuts.  Nice looking model and with that finish it sticks out Edit  What is not shown in the photos is that the cowl is not totally enclosing the fuselage for all its circumference.  The bottom of the fuselage is flat with a considerable hole for ventilation

Going back to an earlier spelling posting,  I have just obtained a copy of an original Flair plan for a Magnattila.  Notice double "t" and single "l". Now not sure how to pronounce it.   It was easy with the LL as it was a "tealla" Now its more a "teata" Just some light hearted banter. More likely, I got my bronze today and am on the low fliers  Edit   The Big Ship is now on hold as the Magnattila will be my first scratch build

Do not give up Stephen.  As I have posted here I demolished my Boomerang which I have successfully rebuilt and have flying again. Down at the flying field today with both the Boomerang and the Magnatilla.  Boomerang went dead stick on me and I safely landed it and put it away so I can look at the engine another day. Had a few flights with the Magnatilla in perfect flying conditions.  Local examiner appeared and my trainer suggests that we ask if he can observe and make any suggestion as to my progress.  Did all the circuits landings and controlled dead stick.  Examiner  asks me a number of questions and then informed me I had successfully passed the bronze exam(Scotland).   I am over the moon as it opens wide doors for the future, however I will walk before I run. You cannot give up now Stephen as not only are you getting the building buzz, but you will get the great buzz from flying your own creation. Stick in

Thanks for the input Having looked at balsa suppliers no mention is made of the grade of basla, hard, soft, etc.  I assume the best idea would be to visit the model shop and select. I had assumed that by the name, liteply is lighter than normal ply, however is it as strong?  I would assume that liteply can be laminated to provide suitable thickness and would provide weight savings? Slightly off subject but I would be grateful for advise on type of glues to use.  At the moment I use the following A thin cyano glue for quick repairs where I have broken a bit.  My thoughts are that, unless in a break situation, my surface have to mate pretty accurately as the thin liquid will have little bridging effect.  At the moment I have used £/Land super glue and have had no problems Where I do not trust the accuracy of my joints I use Evo-Stick weatherproof wood adhesive on the assumption it will take up my inaccuracies. I have used epoxy which came with a wing bandage kit and have found OK.  For the odd bit where I have needed a small amount I have used £/Land epoxy.  I did have to dig out a ply servo-mount I fitted to a wing with this epoxy and it felt rubbery but was stuck solid' I have recently purchased Gorrila Gum and not quite sure of its use.  I stuck ply into the base of a fuselage in order to screw the undercarriage on and found it very easy to work with and appears to have stuck solid.  I am attracted by my understanding that it expands when setting, which would be good for my inaccuracies. I appreciate the replies and I am sure many others will learn from your replies. Thanks in anticipation. Edit  In for a pound in for a penny   How do you fill gaps.  I have seen balloons, but how do they work?

Rather than ARTF I am considering building the Big Ship as in the January issue.  Although I can understand how to build I get a bit lost on the terms used.  Grateful if more experienced can assist  Wing shows "Rock Hard 1/4" sq spars     - What is rock hard? "Soft sheet"  - As above Former F5 is shown as "Litply" with all others just shown as ply   - Ply or liteply? What do all the black arrow head and clear heads indicate? A splice line is shown at the tailplane  - Is this because a 36" sheet has been used? The dihedral braces show a mark "Front to here" and "Rear to here"   ????? I appreciate a lot of the above will be basic and common within models but if you don't no, you don't no. Grateful for any information

I purchased a Boomerang and the covering is as tight as a drum.  I have no experience of the WOT, but I would certainly take it back as you should not be rectifying manufacturing errors

Stephen   I have no exact reason why it crashed. I have subsequently changed the transmitter and receiver. The Sanwa has a button for trainer mode away from the  spring switch which I now have in Futaba. I suspect that unfamiliararity and not communicating very well may have been the reason.  I now do not use the buddy box however would advise you to make clear who has control.  As I said I do not no exactly why   and have just put it down to learning

John I chickened out of removing  the valves, however doing the work in a clear poly bag is so obviously the easiest solution. As indicated, I cleaned the head and top of valves which had a good layer of carbon.  Filled the exhaust port with some Fairy Power Spray and let it sit for a while, cleaned and rebuilt.  Went out to the garage this morning and first turn of the starter motor and away she went - Absolute Dream. I have found that I now can get a very slow tick over and have not adjusted the slow running jet, just brought it down on the trim. What amazes me about these engines is the quality of machining. No gaskets or sealer, just bolt up and away she goes - Magic Edit  I will have the valves out as that will complete the service.  Will get some fun first!

Had my Magnatilla up yesterday and it scared the wits out of me.  It was too windy and it got carried away (I lost control) and was heading for tera firma at a high rate of knots.  Luckily I responded before the inevitable but took the immediate action of bringing it safely down.  Although on reflection I got a buzz out of the experience, with some unprompted aerobatic moves and landing on the runway, it was not what I wanted as a learner.  I will keep the Magnatilla for calmer days as hopefully I can continue to get a lot of entertainment from it, as it is a good trainer. Then took my rebuilt Boomerang up and although still being buffeted about I had a bit more confidence.  Found as I had adjusted aileron throws, as recommended, I had little turning ability in the wind and need to use rudder, which was a new experience, again part of the learning curve.  Further adjustment and back up  in the winds which had receded slightly although I consider you do advance your learning in the wind rather than perfect conditions all the time. Roll on next outing.  

Geoff Your problem may be the current carrying capacity of a small micro switch, otherwise a good idea

Barry Thanks very much for the information.  Did think this was going to be a footer and your advise concerning a  clean floor/working is well founded as I have an aptitude for flying object of the wrong kind. Once we have some good daylight I will have another look and see if I will tackle. Thanks again

Have an old engine that needs a lot of TLC.  Having cleared the exhaust and  the top of the valve from carbon, however consider it would be a good idea to remove the valves and clear away any carbon in the throats. It there a technique/tool for removing spring and collet or Is it too footery and best left alone?