Hamish
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Everything posted by Hamish
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Just a quick update as starboard wing section complete. Following David's blog No1 I infilled between the main spars where the dihedral brace will be. Included in the photo are two tools that I recently purchased which have made the build so much easier and more accurate. Previously I just hacked away with a scalpel but now use the saw which gives me a vertical clean cut. In addition the Permagrit block can be slid across the bench with part being modified on the chopping block ensuring a square face. Will make a start to the port wing. Hope my rambles may help somebody. In advance, a good new year to one and all Hamish Edit. Decided to make the wing tip as per the Baronette and Duke as much easier. Edited By Hamish on 31/12/2016 11:50:11
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Link worked with me. Excellent sales video.
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How did you get on with the cyano? I use £land cyano and have had no problems. What are you using?
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Well Ryan, as it is a gift, ignore all the good advise above and just go and try and fly it because when it crashes it will have cost you nothing. Take a poly bag with you to put the bits in. Seriously, please take heed of the advise above and find out where your local club is where you will get alll the advice you need, otherwise give it to a charity shop. Edited By Hamish on 30/12/2016 21:44:43
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In addition to the magnetic tray, for "live" bits i.e. valve springs, I put tray in a large clear plastic bag to contain these items that what to whiz off. At moment renovating an OS40 FS and really impressed by service from Simplybearings
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I appreciate all the comments that are being made and take them as nothing but constructive. I recently lost a Baronnet, which is virtually identical, but smaller, due to the wing folding. I suspect I had damaged the wing and this was the reason it folded and not through the design. In view of the wing folding I decided to upgrade the wing in the Vicomte by increasing the size of the spars and replacing the main spars with spruce. Overall I do not consider the change will make a massive bit of difference to a power model but will give me the confidence that I should have a strong wing. I had also considered fitting webbing however was advised that this was to prevent the wing twisting in aerobatic manoeuvres, something I understand this model was not designed for or capable of. I appreciate all comments so keep them coming. Starboard wing 80% complete. On a different topic , having lost three models in a row, I have lost confidence in my Taranis, even although it was checked by a competent engineer and tomorrow am picking up a Spectrum DX7 which will compliment the DX6i I have. Stopped building at this time as I need good daylight. Hamish
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Just a quick update on progress, which has been slow. Tail feathers made with a modification that I abandoned the hardwood joiner in the elevator and replaced it with piano wire, easier and saves cutting a junk out of the rudder. Having cut out the wing ribs I used them as a template to fashion the block in front of wing , W35. I made this difficult for myself in that I should have retained the block as a square and then I would have been able to mark the rib profile on the side to cut out more accurately but lesson learned. Main spars W1 & W10 have been replaced with spruce and dihedral braces cut out from 3.5 mm ply as it was what I had. Following on from David Davis's excellent link to theTopmodel's ARTF I will be using a Satio 40 I have which has had the bearings replaced and is running very well. I just consider models of this type must have a 4 stroke engine fitted. Must get on, Hamish
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Chris, Merry Christmas. Not intending to fit ailerons on the Vicomte but will on the Duke. What I will add is the cross bracing at the wing roote as that is where my Baronette failed. Totally agree what you say about plans. I, stupidly, purchased a set of plans off eBay and then downloaded from outerzone to find the same plan is different. I also, stupidly was influenced by a comment, "as plan shows both sides of fuz I can build both at same time".BIG MISTAKE as plan is different. In future I will build one side then build other on top of. Have been making progress and will update my build blog
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Thanks for that excellent link David. Model varies from the plan I am building too, some of which I will introduce into my build. Hamish
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Dihedral brace - Lite ply
Hamish replied to Hamish's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Thank you for the info and advice Darryi. Unfortunately the Baronnet that I had only recently built decided to clap hands which on reflection was due to damage I had inflicted earlier and not due to the designed construction. This has influenced me on the build of the Vicomte in that I have beefed up the spars in the wing and replaced the main two spars, 10x3mm balsa, with pine (or birch?). Making steady progress but I need to apply myself a bit more. I intend to fit the ASP 35, 4 stoke which I think will be just about right. After the Vicomte I am going on to the Duke which is slightly bigger and I have a Satio 40 Special for this model. Again, thanks for advice, particularly with the front peg which I will give a try although will need to laminate some balsa to get thickness. Hamish -
Dihedral brace - Lite ply
Hamish replied to Hamish's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Oh dear Shirring now on order at £1.95 Attempting to download plan for Classic Ugly Stick as it looks a nice easy build. Thanks again -
Dihedral brace - Lite ply
Hamish replied to Hamish's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Hell Chris Thanks for info Chris. I had abandoned the flying wires as although they would give the model an original look would provide more hassel than they were worth Have made a few changes to the original plan in that I was not to keen on the front fixing for the wing via a long block of balsa. Changing it by adding an additional former just in front of the LE and using pegs in wing I like the scratch build as it is so easy to change things, not to drastic, to suit your own ideas. Must get on. Hamish -
Dihedral brace - Lite ply
Hamish replied to Hamish's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Thanks very much Peter. At least I have a template, so not all effort wasted. I have 4mm birch ply so brace will be a bit more substantial. -
Cut out dihedral brace using 1/8" lite ply and just consider it a bit flimsy. I could re-enforce it using 1mm ply. My next thought is what way should the grain run? Any advice appreciated.
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Slow progress but fuz formers cut out. The rear wing fixing not clear on the plan so made up a plate. Not to keen on the front wing fixing with a peg some distance from front of wing so made a similar plate and will bolt down from top. Hopefully will glue formers in place today.
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When I returned to UK two weeks ago I used the autoscanner at passport control. It needs to have a clear view of your eyes so that is the reason for no specs. Very quick and saves standing in a long line.
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Be warned, if you wish to retain C1 after 70 then take early action concerning medical etc and apply as soon as form received. I need C1 to drive my motorhome as weight is over 3500kg and as I have circulation problems had to have a treadmill test, paid by DVLA,. Two years to next test and I will be fitter and loose weight as I scraped through this time. For a few weeks my licence had expired due to DVLA delays, but as I was unaware of any reason why renewal could be declined was able to drive. My point to DVLA was, try explaining that to a Spanish policeman.
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Posted by RC Plane Flyer on 08/12/2016 09:29:44: How did you do it on line without sending a photograph ?? Only interested as I will have to do the same shortly DVLA use your passport pic, if you have a passport.
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Renewed my wife's licence the other day, on line,with no problems. Retained old licence until new one received and then cut up and posted old one back. Service was excellent. Until new licence is in my hands, I only have one.
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In the title "A scratch build" Enjoying the freedom a scratch build gives in changing shapes and sizes to suit materials I have .
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No! that's the watchmakers tool. (What screwdriver? eyesights getting worse)
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This is the tool I use for the "precision " work
