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Everything posted by Richard Harris
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Chris, I'm unsure but I do know that Ian has spent a lot of time perfecting them so they match the originals blades pretty much exactly. He's just perfecting them in the Cura slicing programme as he uses something different. How do you get on with the printed stuff in all that heat?
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If it flies as well as it looks Ken its going to go well 😎 You can extend the motor wires whilst you await for the ESC arrival.
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Experienced instructor requires your help.
Richard Harris replied to David Davis's topic in Beginners
David, Maybe it's worth getting him doing some touch and goes and fly bys to get him more confident with ground handling etc? on the buddy to start with of course. -
Here you go Chris
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Hi Thomas, Yes, I will be posting some out this Friday so can get a couple to you if I've got the bottles. £5 covers p&p PM me Rich
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Coming along nicely Thomas. Ken, Cracking colour scheme mate
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Bas, I have found it to be just in front of the main 'rear' wing though it is dependent on the distance between the two flying surfaces and a few other factors. There is a free online calculator which is pretty accurate if your plan form uses straight edges, I used this for Shifty but as it doesn't have a straight edge I had to estimate some of the dimensions required (it was a little out). I also made a full scale chuck glider test bed which was bang on in the end. Here is the link to the CG tool: ON LINE CALCULATOR Ken, The red will finish it off nicely.
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Very snazzy Ken, is the dark covering navy blue or black? its hard to tell
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I agree Thomas, very therapeutic. You will find it hard to find a straight line on Shifty..
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Well done Ken, You will more than likely need to add some lead up front, cant remember if I added an 'insertion' hole in the lower part of the front former but that is the compartment in needs to be in. Coming along nicely. Thomas, You cant beat a quick build model in my eyes, nice build btw
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I was thinking more Pablo Escobar with a little more hair and a thicker marker pen for his tosh  I trim mine with the covering, applied with a lower temp setting on the iron. Of late I have been using the 4max offering, my trim has held on through many Shifty flights........so far.... Alternatively recently trimmed a gyro using adhesive backed vinyl bought off ebay. It's a bit thicker and can be a bit awkward to apply but there are loads of colours available.
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Neat work Stephen, are you aiming for a 3s 2200mah lipo?
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A weeks work and your almost complete, must be the vodka. Great job Ken
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🤣 A little update on the 3d printed version of the Gyroo II being done by Ian. The design has been updated so that it can be printed on machines with a lower Z axis height keeping the parts to a maximum of 200mm, well within the limits of the popular models. This has meant splitting the fuselage and blades into 3 parts and the horizontal stab into two, it still needs a few tweeks but matches the lines/weights of the traditionally built version and flies just as well. Out of interest the blade segments take 12 hours to print and the whole model is from PLA so no fancy plastics. If all goes to plan I will see if I can persuade the editor to maybe incorporate the files and print instructions somehow to accompany the plan and article when ever its released. A few photos from a get together yesterday.
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Ken, Looking good mate, maiden next week end at this rate? 🤣 Kevin, We can never have too many projects 😉 We had a visit yesterday from a fellow American modeller and avid RCM&E reader Lee, managed to get a few of the boys over to meet him and have a day flying in near perfect conditions. A good day was had by all and he left with a Shifty plan and canopy, he will update me on his progress on his return to Washington. Managed to get a snap of Rich E's canard, if you look closely his receiver is in the cockpit, doubling up as a dummy instrument panel, it fits in from underneath.
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OK Tim, We haver got a small get together this Saturday so I will take some photos. Rich
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Aeromaniac, I've not tried a 4s but would think it would be fine, it certainly wouldn't hurt to inset a carbon/hardwood spar into the flying surfaces if going down this route. The extra weight of the 4s lipo will benefit either Shifty as the beta test models had lead added to the nose. Nice twins by the way, please post your progress once you get going. 😎 Ken, I've flown several canards and Shifty is by far the best flier to date, goes where you point it, you will like it.🙂 Rich
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Glad it arrived safely. Looking forward to your build Ken, I can hazard a guess but which version are you opting for?
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Nice job Tim 😎 Regarding the head unit, I'm sure Malcolm slips in an assembly diagram with the Razor head ? If not I will take a couple of photos. Rich
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My old man sorted this six pence out which is pretty close, now we are on the same page These will be removed and I will inset some lead to match. Have you managed to get out with your yert Chri?, wheather here is still poor.
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Before I get going on the bullet proof Rev 2 Gyroo II I decided to knock up a 2 blade set up to test in readiness. Each blade is 600mm long and they are mounted to a 1mm thick fibre glass plate, I think it was one I used on an Atom many moons ago. These blades use no negative shim and seem to spin up well. After the first session I added 5ps to each tip and reduced the throws by half. It was a bit windy here yesterday and quite bumpy at low level but it coped well. Here are a few snippets of video I took.
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Keith, Yes, material list is for one model, there will be left overs from this but not enough to build a complete model. You will need to double up if your going for the pair. Don't forget to post your progress as you get going. Rich
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Easy fix Tim, Just weight up your lighter blade to match the other two, I use PVA applied with a sponge or you can insert a piece of lead. The trick is adding the extra mass needed in the correct place so that it closely matches the others. First balance all the blades to find there span wise CG and mark this. This will give you a good idea where to apply the PVA, aim to keep these balance points as close as possible by applying it to the outer or inner portion etc. What you must do is add it on and forward of the cordwise CG. It sounds quite a procedure but it is quite simple to do.
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Tim, I used 5 minute epoxy.
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Yes Ken, PM sent Rich